Trend report: beer cocktails

Fat Fish's blackberry beer cocktail (Credit: Aimee Brodeur)

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Up north in San Francisco, there's a surprising new trend brewing: beer cocktails. According to the San Francisco Chronicle, it's not boilermakers (a shot of whiskey is dropped into a pint of beer) or shandys (the Brits' beer-spiked lemonade or ginger ale) that are all the rage. A new wave of refined cocktails use beer as an ingredient in place of Champagne or soda water for an unexpected kick.

Why aren't we seeing these innovative concoctions around our L.A.? It's not that bartenders aren't hip to the trend—the drinks just aren't offered on many cocktail lists. Ask for Nick Lam at Saint Felix in West Hollywood and he'll make you his off-the-menu signature beer cocktail, Kiss Kiss Bang Bang, a hefeweizen treat mixed with Hendrick's gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, and fresh lime and mandarin juice.

Nearby, in the lounge at Fat Fish on Robertson Boulevard, Joshua Dov has been experimenting with beer cocktails to create a less-sweet alternative to lambic (a sweet fruity Belgian beer). His stand-out Blackberry drink is made with muddled blackberries, Ketel One Citroen vodka, Chambord and a splash of Sapporo, chosen because its heartiness balances the fruit flavors. Dov also came up with the Ginger Honey, made with Glenlivet scotch, fresh lemon juice, honey, ginger syrup and Asahi, a dry lager that adds a refreshing kick.

While Dov's beer cocktails, which also include Peach and Tequila Lime selections, are undeniably delicious, some argue against using beer in mixed drinks. Jake Tringali, general manager of Casey's Irish Bar and Grill in Downtown L.A., dislikes this trend, especially since he's also a brewer. He says, "Brewers spend a great deal of time and effort making beer that can be enjoyed on its own."

Other cocktail aficionados, such as Joseph Mailander, editor of the Cocktail Circuit blog, gives props to these adventurous bartenders. "The art of mixing beer with other beverages is far more difficult than people realize," he says, pointing out the challenge in finding ingredients that can compete with the distinctive flavor and aroma of hops.

To One Group mixologist Pablo Moix, who spearheads the cocktail programs at STK and One Sunset, beer is just another brilliant bittering agent alongside Angostura bitters and Campari. He elaborates: "Bitters, as I was trained…are the salt and pepper of cocktails." To that end, Moix recently created the One Sunset, a sweet treat reserved for special events that's made with grapes, mint, vodka, Aperol, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup and amber lager, which he says "dries" out the cocktail while adding effervescence. Now it's just a matter of adding the drink to the bar's official cocktail menu.

TASTING NOTES

Kiss Kiss Bang Bang @ Saint Felix
Bartender Nick Lam says the citrus zing in his drink "provides the satisfaction of your favorite Sunday morning beer." Too bad he’s only at the bar Monday, Wednesday and Friday.

Blackberry @ Fat Fish
This elixir satisfies a sweet tooth without going to far, thanks to addition of Sapporo. Ask for Joshua Dov, who works the lounge bar at Fat Fish Monday through Friday.

One Sunset @ One Sunset
Grapes + lager = a bittersweet symphony. Pablo Moix isn't sure if his new creation will be added to the official cocktail menu. May we suggest bringing this recipe to the bar just in case the bartender on duty doesn't yet know how to make this drink?

6 red grapes
8-10 mint leaves
2 ounces 42 Below vodka
.75 ounces Aperol
.5 ounces fresh squeezed lemon juice
.75 ounces simple syrup
1.5 ounces amber lager

Muddle grapes and mint in a pint glass. Add ice, spirits and mixers, and shake vigorously for six seconds. Strain into a Collins glass, and top with amber lager. Garnish with a mint sprig and a red grape.

Find more beer cocktails and recipes»

Alexandra Le Tellier is Bars & Clubs editor for Metromix Los Angeles.