Absinthe minded | Metromix Los Angeles

Absinthe minded

High on the herbal liquor craze

By Alexandra Le Tellier

Metromix
February 25, 2009

Absinthe minded
Photos:
The Absinthe Room @ the Doheny Doheny boys Steve Lavigni, Eric Alperin and Daniel Nelson are at your service Full moon absinthe parties @ the Doheny Let the green fairy at the Doheny sooth your senses

It's been over a year since the government lifted the century-old ban on absinthe and the novelty factor hasn't worn off yet—even though the herbal liquor doesn't really cause hallucinations of green fairies. (Doheny manager Steve Livigni says an absinthe buzz is comparable to the effects of THC.) In fact, the craze has hit a fever pitch. Not only are bars offering traditional servings, where ice cold water is poured slowly over a sugar cube placed on perforated spoon into a glass of absinthe, but bartenders have also gone wild creating specialty cocktails that balance out the black licorice flavor from the anise. Even the folks behind Play have jumped on the bandwagon, going so far as to temporarily close their Hollywood lounge and re-open it in April as a bohemian bar specializing in absinthe.

Bar Noir at Maison 140

Bar Noir at Maison 140

140 S. Lasky Dr. - Beverly Hills
310-281-4000

Just as the French did during the mid 19th century, Bar Noir hosts L’Heure Vert, an absinthe happy hour where bartenders demonstrate the centuries-old French-serving ritual associated with this 100-proof green alcohol. Drinks cost just $5 from 5 p.m. to 7 p.m.

Bar Lubitsch

Bar Lubitsch

7702 Santa Monica Blvd. - West Hollywood
323-654-1234

This Russian inspired bar is all about its vodka, but there’s still room on the cocktail list for an absinthe martini. Made with Luksusowa vodka, Lucid (the first brand of absinthe to become legal in the States after the liquor’s 100-year ban), fresh lemon juice, and a touch of sweet Brandy, this libation will knock you from the barstool.

Beso

Beso

6350 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles
323-467-7991

There’s Hemingway’s Death in the Afternoon (see below for entry on Cole’s) and now there’s Death in the Morning, made with orange juice, lemon juice, honey water, Champagne and absinthe.

Boardner's

Boardner's

1652 N. Cherokee Ave. - Los Angeles
323-462-9621

Saturday night’s Goth night, Bar Sinister, wouldn’t be the same without ghost-faced night crawlers indulging in absinthe cocktails, from the well known Gargoyle (with sweet-and-sour, water and lemon) to more daring concoctions like the Bloody Brain (with Bailey’s Irish Cream and grenadine) and the Trance Sinister (with cranberry juice and Apple Pucker).

Cole's

Cole's

118 E. Sixth Street - Los Angeles
213-622-4090

We have Ernest Hemingway to thank for Death in the Afternoon—a glass of chilled champagne topped with absinthe—which he created after a brutal bout with the sea. We have bartender Eric Alperin to thank for adding this classic cocktail to the menu.

The Doheny

pick The Doheny

714 W. Olympic Blvd. - Los Angeles

The Doheny’s membership fee ($1,200 if you’re under 35) is worth the money for the bar’s provocative absinthe program alone. Not only do the bartenders offer tableside service, but they also educate guests on the different qualities of absinthes (flavors, thujon content, etc.) and treat them to difficult-to-find varieties. For those unaccustomed to the anise flavor, there are cocktails made with Le Tourment Vert, a traditional French absinthe made from herbs including eucalyptus, rosemary, coriander, sage, grand wormwood, anise and fennel. Try the Nettle (with blood orange juice, honey syrup and Champagne) or the Green Blazer, in which the ingredients are lit in fire and tossed between two metal shakers.

The Edison

The Edison

108 W. 2nd St. #101 - Los Angeles
213-613-0000

For a real trip, head to the Edison, where a “green fairy,” clad in a mesh-colored dress and lit-up green fairy wings, sets up a cart by the bar. She serves 120-proof absinthe via a traditional fountain for $9 a pop and also sells Madame Chocolat absinthe chocolates.

The Foundry on Melrose

The Foundry on Melrose

7465 Melrose Ave. - Los Angeles
323-651-0915

Mixologist Dan Bayha also digs Le Tourment Vert, which shows up in three specialty drinks. There’s the Madame Butterfly with ginger and peach juice; River Seine with grape juice and St. Germain elderflower liqueur; and the Clandesteine with Cointreau and orange juice.

Geisha House

Geisha House

6633 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles
323-460-6300

Leave it to Geisha House to give this French booze a Japanese twist with Midori along with lime and ginger ale.

Ivan Kane's Cafe Was

Ivan Kane's Cafe Was

1521 N. Vine St. - Los Angeles
323-466-5400

Drink it like they did at the Moulin Rouge at this cabaret-inspired French spot. Order the Lucid Stairway to Nowhere; it’s similar to a traditional absinthe drink, only there’s simple syrup instead of a sugar cube.

The Ivar

The Ivar

6356 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles
323-465-4827

This Hollywood club goes modern with over-the-top lighting and sound systems, but when it comes to absinthe, they keep it traditional with the liquor served in an old-fashion glass along with melted sugar cube.

Medusa Lounge

Medusa Lounge

3211 Beverly Blvd. - Los Angeles
213-382-5723

Le Tourment Vert pops up again at Medusa Lounge, where they serve their Gargoyle cocktails in a spooky environment best described as an R-rated fairy tale.

Morton's The Steakhouse

Morton's The Steakhouse

735 S. Figueroa St. - Los Angeles
213-553-4566

Save the date: The chain’s downtown location will host a Pernod tasting on Thursday, March 12 at 6 p.m. when, for $45, a Pernod expert will teach guests about the liquor and present Morton’s latest absinthe cocktails like the Monkey Gland (with gin, orange juice and grenadine) and La Duecce (with fresh raspberries). Can’t make it? These drinks are now on the permanent bar menu.

South

South

3001 Wilshire Blvd. - Santa Monica
310-828-9988

Owner Adam Milstein says to “party like its 1899” with the bar’s Southern Spell. Hold on to your knickers as this concoction’s made with absinthe, Peach schnapps, and ginger ale.

STK

STK

755 N. La Cienega Blvd. - West Hollywood
310-659-3535

Mixologist Pablo Moix strikes again with the most unexpected, yet delightful, blend of ingredients: basil, grapes, St. Germain, fresh lime, ginger ale and Lucid absinthe. It’s called the Lucid Cooler.

Stone Rose Lounge

Stone Rose Lounge

8555 Beverly Blvd. - Los Angeles
310-228-6677

It’s doubtful Hemmingway would have ordered a Mint Muse—too watered down—but we’re sure Hollywood screenwriters dig this drink made with Lucid, mint, pineapple juice, lime, and sprite.

X Bar

X Bar

2025 Avenue of the Stars - Century City
310-551-3332

John Grondorf’s astrology themed drink list, X-trology, features the Cancer Ruby, a tall drink comprised of fresh strawberries, cranberry juice, Stoli Strasberi vodka and Kübler absinthe, which, created in the Val-de-Travers region of Switzerland in 1875, was only revived in 2001 after a nine decade ban by the Swiss government.

DIY RECIPES

The Sundance Lift (served during the 2009 Sundance events)
1 ounce Le Tourment Vert absinthe
1 ounce tonic water
1 ounce 7UP
2 lemon wedges
Build all ingredients in a tall glass filled with ice and garnish with a lemon.

The Voodoo (created by Saint Felix bartender Nick Lam)
.25 ounces absinthe
.5 ounces rose water
.25 ounces lavender syrup
1 ounce Hangar One Buddha's Hand Citron Vodka
1 ounce Hangar One Kaffir Lime Vodka
1 slice lemon
1 slice lime
Muddle lemon and lime with lavender syrup. Shake mixture with remaining ingredients and strain into cocktail glass. Garnish with three rose petals.

Alexandra Le Tellier is Bars & Clubs editor for Metromix Los Angeles.

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