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Navigating L.A.'s best cocktail bars

If drinking is a science, you'll need a lab

By Will Theisen

Special to Metromix
December 17, 2008

3 comments | Add Your Own

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Jalé Berry at Bar Centro (Credit: Shane Redsar)

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By now, most of us accept that being a serious bartender means more than placing an absinthe fountain where your Jager Shot Machine used to be. While many claim there's no tangible distinction between "mixology" and good ol' bartending, those who identify themselves as mixologists share a common passion: a thoughtful and sincere love of the alcohol they're mixing. They're a special breed of bartender that loves the taste of booze, and perverting that taste with something like high-fructose corn syrup or (shudder) energy drinks is inexcusable. Does that make them elitists? "It's like the difference between a doctor and a nurse," says Steve Livigni, general manager at the Doheny. "I mean, they both work in healthcare, but one has a lot more training." His arguement is difficult to refute, especially when it's supported by their expertly prepared, fiery relic of a cocktail called the Blue Blazer.

Lounge at Bar Celona

46 E. Colorado Blvd. - Pasadena

626-405-1000

Sangrias are proof that wine belongs on any mixologists list of ingredients, but making a Sangria is like walking a tightrope. Varibles like alcohol content, carbonation and use of citrus can drastically change the final product. Old Town Pasadena's Bar Celona makes a tasty, well balanced red Sangria, as well as a sweeter white Sangria.

Bar Centro at the Bazaar by José Andrés

465 S. La Cienega Blvd - Beverly Hills

310-246-5555

Of the many different styles of drink-making on the market today, molecular mixology is the most eye-grabbing, what with the use of cryogenic fluid, spherification, and organic ingredients like sea salt. Any jerk can make a Daiquiri with ice, but Bazaar chef Jose Andres treats his fresh raspberries with liquid nitrogen. Also try the Magic Mojito, served in a shaker and strained over cotton candy.

Bar Lubitsch

7702 Santa Monica Blvd. - West Hollywood

323-654-1234

Many mixologists frown at the enormous popularity of vodka, saying it lacks complexity, but not Jared Meisler. He believes vodka is undervalued, similar to chicken in the cuisine world. If the taste isn't overpowered, it's a success. All six of his house cocktails feature vodka, including such originals as the Lubitsch Touch and the Ninotchka, a surprisingly manly cocktail considering it contains vanilla, fresh strawberries and champagne.

Beso

6350 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-467-7991

Lead bartender Alex Straus picked up the best habits from the pioneering mixology bars on the east coast, Tao Beach in Las Vegas, west coast innovators like Pablo Moix at STK and the folks at the Edison. He streamlined the techniques and came up with the menu you'll find at Beso. By substituting sugary syrups with fresh fruit, and fancy bar tricks with exact measurements, Straus' masterpieces are delievered fast and consistent. Try the Tequila Spa, a mainstay on his menus, made with cucumbers, red grapes, lemon, lime and Tequila.

Cole's

118 E. Sixth Street - Los Angeles

213-622-4090

"Sasha Petraske" and "Milk and Honey" are the names to drop to legitimize one's connection to the mixology scene. Petraske owns Milk and Honey, the New York cocktail bar that helped set the standard in America, and maybe the world. (We're not just saying that for effect... check out the buzz around his London location.) Petraske and his partner Eric Alperin are responsible for the cocktails at Coles' mixology bar, called the Varnish. Try the original cosmopolitan, made with gin, raspberry-infused simple syrup, and lemon juice and you'll wonder why on earth the "modern" cosmo rose to popularity.

Comme Ça

8479 Melrose Ave. - Los Angeles

323-782-1178

Fans of the Manhattan tend to be particular about the way they're prepared. A hastily made Manhattan can go horribly wrong; too much Vermouth and it's too sweet, too much Whiskey, and it's not sweet enough. The best Manhattans tend to be pricey, but head to Comme Ca after 9:58 p.m. and enjoy the "King of the Cocktails" for $9.98.

The Doheny

714 W. Olympic Blvd. - Los Angeles

The Doheny's four-figure yearly membership fee will turn some away, which leaves more room at the bar for fans of lead bartender Daniel Nelson's incredible drinks. If you're in the mood for something hot, try the seasonal Blue Blazer. Made with Macallan Cask Strength scotch, it's lit on fire and poured back and forth from one silver cup to another. This warms the drink, and also brings the alcohol content down a notch, before the scotch is mixed with sugar and lemon. Other standouts include the Field of Gold with Bulleit bourbon, and table-side absinthe pouring.

The Edison

108 W. 2nd St. #101 - Los Angeles

213-613-0000

The libations menu at the Edison reads like a mixology playbook, and the man you want behind the bar at game time is Marcos Tello. He's the bartender for bartenders, a guy whose name is mentioned often as one of the most influential drink-makers in L.A. Try their signature cocktail, the Edison, a lavender-honey infused Woodford Reserve Bourbon with pear liqueur and fresh pear juice.

Hotel Bel-Air Bar

701 Stone Canyon Rd. - Bel Air

310-472-1211

In L.A., "bartender" is usually a more dignified way of saying "out-of-work actor."Gus Tassopulos, who's been mixing drinks for five decades, either has an inept agent or a perennial love for bartending. After reading a recent Wall Street Journal article featuring his Highball Americano, we're guessing it's the latter.

The Hungry Cat

1535 N. Vine St. - Los Angeles

323-462-2155

The seasonal cocktail menu at the Hungry Cat is the product of soaring creative experimentation and meticulous attention to detail. The syrups and garnishes are made fresh, and ingredients come from local farms. Order the Johnny Appleseed, made with Laird's Applejack, lemon, apples, egg white and cinnamon.

Katana

8439 W. Sunset Blvd. - West Hollywood

323-650-8585

Sometimes, to make a great cocktail, you really need to look around the kitchen. To make their Pear Martini, Katana uses Grey Goose le Poire Vodka, muddled pear, fresh pear juice, and slice of shaved Parmesan for the garnish.

Katsuya Hollywood

6300 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-871-8777

In addition to S Bar and Foxtail, the successful partnership between Ryan Magarian and the SBE brand is seen again in the cocktail menu of Katsuya. His Eastern Raspberry Sidecar is a modern take on a classic, made with hard pressed fresh raspberries intertwined with equal measures of Hennessey VS Cognac, Nigori Sake, Cointreau and lemon juice in a five-spice sugar rimmed glass.

Malo

4326 W. Sunset Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-664-1011

A gringo walks into a Tequila bar and orders a Margarita. The bartender asks, "What kind of tequila?" And the gringo replies "it doesn't matter." If you don't get the joke, then you are that gringo. Malo has over 150 different tequilas in stock, so do some preliminary homework and take advantage of their dedication to agave. Instead of Cuervo, try 1800 or, if it's been a good month, el Tesoro. If it's been a very good month, we suggest el Tesoro Paradiso, a Cognac-barrel tequila aged five years.

Musso & Frank Grill

6667 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-467-7788

They may not call themselves mixologists, so we're not going to either, but these guys are the real deal when it comes to mixing drinks. Seldom is seen the passion, dedication and experience with which Manny Felix pours his drinks. He's a cultrual icon (with a plaque to prove it) and you owe it to yourself to try an M&F Martini.

Nic's Restaurant & Martini Lounge

453 N. Canon Dr. - Beverly Hills

310-550-5707

The pairing of the olive and the Martini is one of the most celebrated collaborations in drink mixing history, and when the Martini is delicious and the olive is fresh, it's a huge success. Try a Maytag Repairman made with Skyy 90 Vodka and Maytag blue cheese olives.

Renee's Courtyard Cafe

522 Wilshire Blvd. - Santa Monica

310-451-9341

Renee's might not be the first place you'd think to find a seasoned mixologist, but that's because you're not looking for Joshua Thomas. Catch him before the late night rush, let him know what you like, and try not to ask for Red Bull. Before you know it, you're enjoying a Tom Collins, when all this time you thought you hated gin.

Seven Grand

515 W. 7th St., 2 floor - Los Angeles

213-617-0737

The 125 whiskeys, ryes and bourbons behind the bar are proof of 213 head Cedd Moses' love of whiskey. Lead barman John Coltharp will pour an Old Fashioned that will have you and your posse feeling like the mad men on "Mad Men."

Still thirsty? "Sample" the cocktails at Cole's and Bar Centro»

Find out more about classic cocktails»

Will Theisen is contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.

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3 comments | Add Your Own

Liquid Chef from Manhattan Beach - March 26, 2009 at 1:47 PM

What about Bar Marmont? Providence? Also, "Bottega Louie" is opening up in just a couple of weeks in downtown LA. It's an Italian concept with a ...

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junkhauler from NOHO - December 21, 2008 at 1:48 PM

Very surprised Tiki Ti did not make this list, as their cocktails have roots in the origins of classic cocktails, Ray Buhen being at the forefront ...

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TheLiquidMuse from Los Angeles - December 19, 2008 at 2:38 PM

Good choices on your round up! I couldn't agree more!

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