Walking. v. [pronounced WAH-king]
1. Kind of like driving, except you can connect your iPod directly into your ears.
2. One of the finest means of uncovering L.A.’s lesser-known urban pockets.
Local Positioning
Walking guides for the city's most interesting enclaves
February 13, 2008
Local Positioning: Main Street Alhambra
Some only know Alhambra as the home of Phil Spector and his creepy hilltop fortress of weird-itude, but in fact, they’re missing out on a gem of the San Gabriel Valley. An old (by SoCal standards, at least) suburb just east of Downtown L.A. off the 10, Alhambra offers lots of vital retail and food choices, many of them courtesy of the sizable Asian population. Main Street in particular has a town-center feel, a comforting combination of midcentury Americana and contemporary eclecticism.
Local Positioning: Loyola Village
Of all the institutions of higher learning in Southern California, Loyola Marymount University in Westchester surely possesses one of the best pieces of land. Along with its proximity to the Pacific, LMU boasts panoramic views of the L.A. basin (to the north and east) and the nearby towers of LAX (to the south). The surrounding neighborhood of Loyola Village has always maintained its oddball appeal, though the hip Custom Hotel could suggest a new direction for the area.
Local Positioning: Hermosa Beach
Hermosa Beach is sort of the middle child of the beach cities. Set between Manhattan’s polished slickness and Redondo’s salty unpretentiousness, it combines elements of both to make for a diverse experience. The pier area, only one part of downtown Hermosa, tends to cater to the rowdy, beachkegger crowd; but don’t let that scare you off. There’s plenty more to see, and who knows—you might actually enjoy guzzling a pitcher of Sierra Nevada, sporting flip-flops and singing along to a Dave Matthews cover band.
Local Positioning: West Brentwood
Considering it’s on the edge of one of L.A.’s ritziest neighborhoods, the area around 26th Street and San Vicente Boulevard in Brentwood is surprisingly casual and down-to-earth. The Brentwood Country Mart, which anchors this strip, is like a Westside analogue to the Original Farmers Market at 3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue (which the BCM was modeled after). Don’t be surprised if you spot a few incognito celebs.
Local Positioning: Olvera Street
Located in El Pueblo de Los Angeles, the city’s birthplace, Olvera Street has a storied history. Its current configuration as a marketplace filled with Mexican-American vendors selling authentic foods and traditional goods debuted in 1930. With more than 70 different shops on this historic block, it can be hard to choose, so here’s our guide to the best Olvera Street has to offer.
Local Positioning: Downtown El Segundo
Its name means “the second” in Spanish. But second to what? New York? Mexico City? Heaven? Occupying a neat, hilly square of near-coastal land tucked between LAX, a massive Chevron refinery and Manhattan Beach, El Segundo has a happy, healthy vibe. It’s not quite on the way to anything, but it is worth a trip to check out the surprisingly vibrant downtown and the squeaky-clean, leafy suburban streets.
Local Positioning: Little India
If you can’t afford the time or money to jump on a plane to Calcutta or New Delhi, you can always drive less than a half-hour from the middle of L.A. to Pioneer Boulevard in Artesia. There, you can immerse yourself in a colorful swirl of Indian fabrics, spices, jewelry, decorative artworks and languages, not to mention some of the most flavorful vegetarian dishes south of the 10 Freeway.
Local Positioning: Sepulveda Blvd. in Culver City
Sepulveda Boulevard in central Culver City has an unpretentious, oldschool feel. A tinge of urban hipness graces the area, but the appeal is in its lack of polish. Two blocks of odd, hodgepodge storefronts offer enough food, coffee and interesting shopping to keep you occupied for at least a couple of hours.
Local Positioning: East 3rd Street
Downtown L.A. is Los Angeles in microcosm, a collection of mini-neighborhoods, each with their own distinct personality. The Historic Core is home to trendy loft dwellers, the Financial District bustles with bargain hunters, and South Park entertains Angelenos via L.A. Live and the Staples Center. In the shadow of these high-profile neighbors, a low-key bohemian enclave has taken root on the eastern edge of Downtown, in what was once an industrial wilderness. Welcome to the Downtown Arts District.
Local Positioning: Little Ethiopia
Officially dubbed Little Ethiopia in 2002 by the L.A. City Council, this electric stretch of Farifax Avenue takes you on a cross-cultural adventure. Stroll down the block to overhear conversations in Amharic, inhale air thick with spices from Ethiopian eateries, and browse finely crafted goods from Afrocentric shops. Then peek inside the funky thrift stores and witness the vast collection of cakes on display in an old-fashiones bakery. Just don't leave without trying a handful of injera bread and lenthis.
Local Positioning: The Old Bank District
Undergoing a transformation from run-down historic strip to youthful enclave, Downtown L.A.’s Main Street is finally starting to look like a center of town again. So whether your evening lineup entails a glass of wine or a tall can of cheap brew, make this block your warm-up stop. Alas, the streets aren’t lined with cash—but you can secure a great night for a song.
Local Positioning: Toluca Lake
Toluca Lake is Hollywood’s last true company town. The stomping ground of employees from Universal, Warner Bros. and Disney, this pedestrian-friendly area is squeaky-clean and grown-up. Riverside Drive near Hollywood Way has scads of food options, but a more interesting walking stretch starts just west of the historic Googie-style Bob’s Big Boy restaurant. Along a two-block section of Riverside Drive between Mariota and Forman avenues, there’s not a hint of urban grit or edge, which is of course its charm.
Local Positioning: Santa Monica Blvd. at Holloway
WeHo isn’t all rainbow flags and gay bars filled with hot young men (although we do love those). Santa Monica Boulevard near the charming, blink-and-you’ll-miss-it Holloway Drive pops with unexpected celebrity hangouts, adorable French restaurants and tiny temples of health.
Local Positioning: Rockin' Row
If the Sunset Strip is where rockers spend their nights, this three-block section of Sunset Boulevard between Curson Avenue and Vista Street is where they spend their days. This rockin’ row is east of the Strip and west of the “rock ’n’ roll” Ralphs, where Joey Ramone look-alikes (male and female) buy cat food and beer at 3 a.m. This mini-strip is so rich with music-related businesses (count ’em: five guitar shops!) that you could probably burn through 20 songs on your iPod before reaching the end of the stretch—40 if you’re into speed metal.
Local Positioning: Vintage Ventura
The real reason the Valley has a bad rep is so locals don’t have to share Ventura Boulevard. The stretch of 1950s storefronts between Van Nuys Boulevard and Kester Avenue is a retro delight: a medical spa in the bones of a grand midcentury movie palace, two used-record shops, three Japanese restaurants, clothing stores for all ages and one of the most serious pool rooms around. If you’re a fast walker, this two-block stretch will go by while you’re still choosing your playlist. But if you’re into window-shopping, you’ll need at least 17 songs on your iPod to temper the accompanying traffic noise.
Local Positioning: Chung King Road
Since Chinatown tends to sprawl a bit, we suggest taking it one back road at a time. But don’t even think about driving your car down Chung King Road, even if it is visible on Google Maps. The main path in a plaza of walk-streets bordered by Hill Street to the south and Yale Street to the north, CKR now predominantly boasts contemporary art galleries in spaces that were once kitschy souvenir shops. Will the area pull visitors from Downtown’s nearby Gallery Row? It’s hard to resist paper lanterns and pepper-coated ham…
Local Positioning: Leimert Park Village
Historic Leimert Park is the cultural heart of South Los Angeles. Sundays beat with energy from drum circles in the park, passionate political exchanges at Eso Won Books, and laughter-heavy conversations from patrons of nearby Jamaican and Southern restaurants. When evening falls, the mile-and-a-half strip pulses with sound as jazz, blues and R&B beckon music lovers from all over the city to peruse this jewel of a neighborhood.
Local Positioning: Little Tokyo
Once a haven for Japanese immigrants, Little Tokyo is now host to upscale lofts and apartments for the Downtown set, as well as Japanese specialty stores and traditional restaurants dishing shabu-shabu, ramen and sushi. Although the area has been infiltrated by major brands like American Apparel, Angelenos who know better head straight to the small shops located in the various plazas—all just a hop, skip and hand roll from one another. Wanna go Metro? Civic Center is your stop.
Local Positioning: Downtown Culver City
Downtown Culver City is nice—maybe a little too nice. What used to be a semi- obscure trove of small restaurants and movie studios is now pretty much a nonstop quarter-mile stretch of sidewalk cafes with pseudo-European names. But just because the area has become a great place to take your grandma to lunch doesn’t mean Culver has lost its street cred.
Local Positioning: Fairfax Ave between Oakwood and Rosewood
Too-hot-for-the-hot-tub shops are popping up all over the block of Fairfax Avenue between Oakwood and Rosewood—an area once known as the Kosher Canyon for its copious Jewish bakeries and businesses, the most famous being Canter’s Deli and its adjoining Kibitz Room. Now, in one fell swoop you can get fresh kicks, score some new vinyl, find a good read, and finish it all off with a knish and a stiff drink at the neighborhood bar. Welcome to the club, kids.
Local Positioning: Del Rey
Nestled just north of the 90 Freeway on the cusp of Culver City and steps from Mar Vista is an area called Del Rey—its epicenter being the intersection of Centinela Avenue and Washington Boulevard. And while it might look like just four old street corners, those corners are teeming with cool shops and eateries. Peer into Dream World’s Bat Cave, munch on tacos and red velvet cupcakes, then make the small trek south and wander around the handful of mom-and-pop shops.
Local Positioning: Elysian Park
Despite its checkered past, L.A.’s oldest park is now celebrated as home to Dodger Stadium and picnic-friendly lawns. And the 526 acres of urban retreat boast more than baseball. Allow yourself the day to unearth inner-city secrets amid the palms, trek the hills to discover a modern art sculpture, or head toward Stadium Way for commanding viewpoints and make-out friendly enclaves. If you forget the picnic basket at home, you can pig out at the Police Academy’s outdoor cafe. It’s extreme walking at its finest.
Local Positioning: Silverlake at Glendale Blvd.
Between the 2 Freeway and Fletcher Avenue in Silverlake is a stretch of Glendale Boulevard that we love, boasting a variety of cool bars, stores and eateries. Though there are plenty of Priuses about, it remains one of the most walkable—while still not entirely spendy—areas in Silverlake.
Local Positioning: Burbank at San Fernando Blvd.
Downtown Burbank was a lively pedestrian draw long before Ikea and the mall moved in. Staples such as Macy’s and Ross bring the crowds, but it’s the independent storefronts along San Fernando Boulevard that balance the experience. Luckily, the parking is still free and easy. And even though there’s a good chance the guy next to you is a Disney animator, there’s no Hollywood attitude—this is Burbank, not L.A.
Local Positioning: Hollywood Blvd. at Vermont
With two former Melrose Avenue stores having relocated here, and another having opened an eastern satellite last May, this skewed little stretch of Hollywood Boulevard, at Vermont, offers more offbeat shopping choices per square inch than perhaps anywhere else in the city. Go ahead: Just try to leave after less than an hour.
Local Positioning: Glendale at Brand Blvd.
Known by many Angelenos as that place you drive by on your way to Pasadena, Glendale is often considered the square little brother of our City of Angels. But a closer look at this hopping stretch of Brand Boulevard between Lexington Drive and Wilson Avenue might leave you thinking Pasadena’s too far after all.
Local Positioning: Echo Park Ave. (aka Chicken Corner)
Dubbed "Chicken Corner" for an Aaron Donovan mural that once graced the eastern wall of the Del Mor Apartments (and was torn down when Chango installed windows), this little block of galleries and storefronts was once a crossroads of gang activity. Now it boasts a fair share of '80s Volvos with Smith and/or Wesleyan window stickers. That doesn't mean you won't catch some gleefully shady activity while sipping a coffee on Delta Street, but you're just as likely to see parents pushing their Bugaboos. The too-cool-for-school set is reeling as condos (with underground parking, they promise) stagger to life just across the street from the Magic gas station.
Local Positioning: Montrose at Honolulu Ave.
Montrose. It has mountains, it has roses. It also has bragging rights as the birthplace of Virginia "Ding Dong" Bell, noted 1950s stripper with noted 48-inch bust. Perhaps you saw her in the film Lullaby of Bareland? If not, you can stroll Honolulu Avenue, a small-town main drag of many amusements, pondering what you missed. Shop, eat, drink and huff the mountain air, just as Ding Dong once did.
Local Positioning: Altadena at Upper Lake Ave.
It may not have Rose Parade or a Suicide Bridge, but the other 'dena-Altadena-is not without its charm. North of sexy big sister Pasadena, the little town is tucked away at the top of Lake Avenue, nestled at the massive foot of the alpine, ear popping splendor of the San Gabriels-which, by the way, boast the beautiful, gut busting Sam Merrill Trail up to Mount Echo, where stunning vistas and sun-dazed rattlesnakes abound. But who needs nature when you've got all mod cons in easy walking distance back down in civilization?
Local Positioning: Hollywood Fundamental
Between the cheap souvenir stands, the ever-changing array of chic-hopeful restaurants, and the hip lounges for the tats-and-wallet-chain brigade, Hollywood proper offers a number of low-watt delights. Feel the magic, eat the hot dogs, buy the panties, and so much more.
Local Positioning: North Hollywood at Lankershim and Magnolia
The area around Lankershim and Magnolia boulevards in North Hollywood is practically begging for people to come enjoy its vibrant theater scene, burgeoning restaurants and unique shops. As of now, this hidden gem of a neighborhood has some very wide and very empty sidewalks most hours of the day. But with plenty going on and a Metro Red Line stop just yards away, this spot is due some action by you.
Local Positioning: Los Feliz (for the rest of us)
Los Feliz has long been at the forefront of the gentrification sweeping the Eastside. Some of us like to see ourselves as bystanders in this process rather than active participants: We're the ones you always hear grumbling about how we can't afford our own neighborhood anymore. So we've decided to do something about it. Let's take a stroll down Hillhurst Avenue—with an eye toward our wallets.
Local Positioning: Playa Del Rey
If ever there was a post-industrial Southern California beach town paradise, Playa del Rey is it. Jumbo jets roar over the tiny neighborhood pinched between LAX and Dockweller Beach, where mysterious crumbling structures jut dramatically into the surf. Hardly fit for a king, but beach bums and city folk alike can traverse its streets, getting royally drunk at venues within staggering distance of one another.
Local Positioning: Mission West District
Sitting under a canopy of trees at a South Pasadena coffee shop, time slows down. Artist folk ramble, bike riders pass, old-timers mosey, and mid-afternoon strollers say hello while walking their dogs-and not the kind that fit into a purse. The Mission West District has a small-town, feel-good atmosphere. Parking spaces are as bountiful as wine shops, and lazy lounging is the Sunday standard. You can’t even hear the freeway. The locals want to keep it that way; there are always threats the 710 will one day invade. Set foot in this endangered oasis while you can.
Local Positioning: Palm Springs
The Palm Springs area has long been a haven for retirees eager to escape the crazy kids and their complicated haircuts. But one weekend a year, the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival attracts the 18-35 demographic in droves to the sweltering heat. In order to properly take in (and take over) Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley, we’ve compiled a shortlist of places to eat, drink, shop and be merry on your way to or from the fest. Enjoy, and don’t forget your sunblock.
Local Positioning: Sunset Blvd. between Antioch and Swarthmore
Eastsiders: Take a vacation for a day by riding the No. 2 MTA bus to the westernmost end of Sunset Boulevard, then walking Antioch Street to Swarthmore Avenue. Here in the heart of Pacific Palisades, you’ll happily flip-flop around this celebrity-laden beachside town to find flirty boutiques, organic bites and good reads.
Local Positioning: Griffith Park
Imagine hitting the great outdoors in your own backyard. We're talking about Griffith Park—where car horns and technology addiction take a back seat to nature walks, tennis, bike and carousel rides, and fresh-baked vegan pie.
Local Positioning: Thai Town and Little Armenia at Hollywood Blvd.
Within stumbling distance of the Red Line’s Hollywood/Western stop, Thai Town and Little Armenia intertwine along Hollywood Boulevard, heading east to Normandie. The resulting cultural amalgam has more to offer than just multi-alphabetic signs, however. If you’re a cross-dressing barfly, a grindcore junkie, a keen antique aficionado or perhaps all three, this half-mile stretch is a welcome respite from the usual Hollywood glitz.
Local Positioning: Eagle Rock Blvd. at Colorado Ave.
The corner of Eagle Rock Blvd. and Colorado Ave. is a hub of quirky delights. You'll find trendy boutiques, vintage stores and dual-purpose shops—art galleries, for example, share spaces with bookstores and hair salons. There's even an original Fosters Freeze down the road for those wanting a taste of childhood, soft-serve style.
Local Positioning: Wilshire at La Brea
The somewhat chaotic intersection of Wilshire and La Brea doesn’t seem like an obvious place for a stroll. But we burned through 13 songs on our iPod along this stretch—if only because there was so much to explore. You can shop for cute vintage clothes or chic little gifts, grab a meal, or even catch a show up the street at the famous El Rey Theatre. You can also take public transit—there are buses that connect to the Metro stop right on the corner.
Local Positioning: Franklin Ave. between Bronson and Tamarind
Couched beneath the Hollywood Hills, this dense block of shops and watering holes is one of our favorite walkable stretches—if just for the relaxed vibe and tight-knit microcosm of folks it attracts. From groggy neighborhood eccentrics to B-list actors looking to keep a low profile, this block may seem at first glance like our very own Pitcairn Island. Parking can be tough, however, and don’t even think about trying your luck at the Mayfair Market: They’ll tow you faster than you can say Upright Citizens Brigade.
Local Positioning: Windward Ave.
Yeah, Venice Beach can be hell ride of a tourist trap. But if you travel far enough south and turn slightly off the boardwalk, there is a trove of (somewhat) hidden treasures for your cash-spending pleasure. On the historic Windward Ave., you can gorge on Chinese food, shop for vintage duds, down a stronger-than-heck margarita and get that dragon tattoo you’ve always wanted, all in a one-block radius. And you can thank us later.
Local Positioning: Atwater Village
Just across the Glendale Boulevard bridge, what could pass as a fleet of same-ish buildings when you’re driving is actually, when viewed afoot, a bounty of shops, restaurants and low-key locales. Maybe not as aesthetically pleasing as richie cousin Silverlake, there’s still lots to unearth if you let your feet do the walkin’. Try parking on a side street like Madera or Larga.
Local Positioning: Westwood Blvd. South
Just a beer bong away from UCLA, Westwood Boulevard just south of Wilshire (aka SoWood) offers more than Persian rugs and day spas -- but there are a lot of those too. It’s an international stretch dotted with cafes, coffee shops, and markets serving fresh produce and Middle Eastern sweets. Add renovated storefronts and New Age fitness studios, and it’s a walkable destination to get lost for a while.
Local Positioning: Heliotrope Dr. at Melrose Ave.
HelMel—named after the intersection of Heliotrope and Melrose—is tucked away under that huge green net behind Los Angeles City College. The area is less a neighborhood than it is two corners featuring a diverse cluster of businesses catering to an even more diverse clientele. We don’t know why this veggie-friendly, bicycle-loving and art-supporting zone took root on this random block off Vermont Ave., but the result is a walkable destination we love.



