The Eastside-Westside battle has taken on a new form. As if the clash between tattoo tart and beach bunny, Goodwill versus Galliano or Spaceland and Hyde weren’t enough, there’s now the matter of dough. Within the last few months, East and West have each witnessed the opening of a new bakery: Antigua Bread in Highland Park and Grateful Bread on Santa Monica’s Montana Ave. Though it may be a showdown as contrived as the throwdown between Kanye and 50, Metromix is never one to shy away from hyping up a crosstown rivalry. Herewith, the debate begins.

Coffee shop cubicle
Unless you draw inspiration from a clutter of taquerias and foot clinics, Figueroa Ave. has not necessarily been the place for laptop-toting writers to wander about looking to steal Internet connection or camp out with the single (endless) cup of coffee. Highland Park's Antigua hopes to change all that—yes, including the wireless-sniping and table-squatting, you unrepentant freeloader. Combine the utter lack of scene—there were just as many grandpas as hipsters the day we stopped in—with free WiFi, potent Guatemalan coffee and the upbeat yet unobtrusive Latin beat, and you’ve got all the elements needed to finish that screenplay.

Grateful Bread, on the other hand, may be just the place to pretend to work—not that there’s anything wrong with that. But thanks to its sleek industrial interior, tiny tables and, most significantly, the absence of Internet, the space encourages other productive activity like gossiping and watching the Montana Ave. shopping parade.

How tempting?
A true and worthy bakery display can disarm even the unflinching willpower of anorexic actress-types—we’ve witnessed said creatures blow an entire week’s calorie count at the Alcove in Los Feliz. Unfortunately, Antigua most likely can’t wield such power. By midafternoon, only two sad-looking baguettes peek out from the basket. And the case of muffins, brownies and shiny fruit danish begins to resemble the stock at 7-Eleven.

But Grateful is certain to inspire the splurge. Patrons are encouraged to sample from a plate of bread slices and rich brownie squares. The hypnotizing scent of baking loaves fills the room. The glass case contains muffins, cookies, tarts, cupcakes and croissants—a collection sumptuous enough even to seduce the carb-phobic likes of Victoria Beckham (not that she’s an “actress”).

Biting in
The 25- and 50-cent Guatemalan sweet breads hidden on Antigua’s bottom shelf are exceptionally tasty. The crumbly rounds are perfect for dunking in a cup of the rich Guatemalan roast. “Traditional” baked goods, however, prove that size does not matter—the gargantuan offerings don't amount to much in flavor. The chocolate-frosted brownie is rich and chewy, but ultimately average, while the chocolate-filled muffin tastes about as good as prepackaged stuff. Worse yet, the wheat baguette and Parisian loaf—the only available bread options at game time—are totally tasteless.

After the disappointing dough experience, it’s hard not to be grateful for Grateful. The multigrain loaf coated in sesame seeds is moist, slightly sweet and enormously satisfying. The challah roll is not quite as rich and flaky as one might desire, but the chocolate croissant and decadent lemon tart more than compensate for the deficit.

The verdict
Antigua Bread gets major points for its pleasant patio, friendly employees and late hours—10 p.m. on weekdays and 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday. It also offers an extensive—if somewhat unfocused and diffuse—kitchen menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner, which may be the ultimate draw for locals. For the moment, at least, Grateful is winning the dough war. No need to lose heart, Eastsiders. Antigua’s co-owner Miguel Hernandez says that he plans to expand the bread and pastry list. “People just need to tell me what they like and don’t like,” he said. Consider that done and done.