(Credit: istock)
The season usually runs the length of autumn and into about January or so, but there’s something quintessentially wintry about the fruit. Of course, according to the Classics, pomegranate seeds—a mere three in fact—are the very reason why everything above Hades freezes over in the first place. (And, in case you fell asleep in Western Civ class, it’s time to dust off your Edith Hamilton’s “Mythology” text, you academic miscreant.) Besides, they’re practically dressed for the holidays. In a recent cooking demonstration at Border Grill, the two hot Nuevo-Latino chefs, Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken, tossed a handful of nature’s rubies into a spinach salad, and instantly, “Merry Christmas.” And, yes, you should try this at home.
While pomegranates have been as trendy as Pinkberry over the last year—they even have a marketably-twee nickname now—“poms” in Los Angeles have more often than not appeared in semi-artificial yogurty form (see: CeFiore and Sno:LA) or in splashy cocktails (see: every restaurant-lounge-bar between Santa Monica and Hollywood). Not exactly the hallmark of healthfulness, even if you are getting your pomegranate-fix from Jamba Juice these days.
Step away from the martini glass and you’ll see the fruit’s versatility in menus across L.A. Here’s a quick tour of our favorites, from traditional to farm-to-table innovative, before the diva skips town.
Fesenjan
Pomegranates are a mainstay of Middle Eastern cuisine, and the winter “cold” is a perfect occasion to indulge in this rustic stew of walnuts and pomegranate syrup (or paste). It’s sweet and slightly sour, but earthy from all the ground nuttiness. The Farmstand in El Segundo has a surprisingly good, modern take. And while it’s traditionally made with chicken, Westwood’s Shamshiri Grill throws lamb into its version, which works fantastically with the flavor of pomegranate.
Chiles en nogada
It’s Mexico’s national dish. One look at the plate of stuffed poblano chiles, creamy walnut white sauce and sprinkling of pomegranate seeds, and the patriotic colors will tell you why. Purists say that it isn’t true chiles en nogada without the pomegranate, and we agree—cherry tomatoes or dried cranberries are crappy ringers. Get thee a copy of “Like Water for Chocolate” if you’re still unconvinced of its cultural significance, then drive out to Babita Mexicuisine to bring it all to magic realization.
Addendum: It looks nothing like chiles en nogada, but we think the ancho chili dip on the Opus lounge menu deserves honorable mention. It's smoky from the chiles, hearty from the walnuts and just plain special from the essence of pomegranate.
Farrotto at Ammo
Farro usually has some whole-grain bite to it; here, it’s given the creamy, labor-intensive treatment of risotto—hence the name. The roasted beets and syrupy reduction of pomegranate imbues the dish with a deep, velvety purple color. Gorgeous and flavorful.
Uplifted greens
Farm-to-table produce available late night in Hollywood? Who would have known? But Lift is raising the culinary bar with a menu that features the freshest and most seasonal ingredients. It's eponymous salad alone is a rainbow explosion of greens, heirloom radishes, multi-colored beets and tomatoes, but because the winter crop says so, the kitchen throws in the tart jewels for extra pizzazz.
The Little Door
This oh-so-Continental restaurant displays a particular love for pomegranate, featuring it in a salad of arugula and onetik cheese, a Moroccan-spiced butternut squash soup and a “duo of duck” with candied walnuts. If the full sit-down experience isn’t your thing, the adjacent Little Next Door spreads pomegranate preserve between brioche with Basque cheese, arugula and (more!) candied walnuts. It’s as tasty as it is cute.
And for dessert…
Mariah Swan over at Grace Restaurant is quickly becoming one of the city’s most exciting pastry chefs, updating a sweets menu that’s so decidedly seasonal and farm-driven. What does she pair with the brightness of pomegranate? A dark chocolate tart with peanut butter ice cream. Enough said.
Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
