(Credit: Rachel Coleman)
Don’t get us wrong: Auntie A's pretzels—greasy, spongy, overwrought gnarls—can be indiscriminately satisfying, and God knows we’ve dropped plenty of dough on them. But let's give them a proper examination. Where’s the glazy crust that resonates a satisfying hollow sound when you rap a knuckle against it? Is there really any flavor that doesn’t come from a dunk in melted butter, a roll in powdered seasoning, or a dip in liquid cheese?
A fair number of places offer their own twist on the baked goodness. Pretzels are reshaped into croissants at City Bakery; they're served with brats and spicy mustard as an appetizer at Melrose Bar & Grill; La Brea Bakery transforms them into mini artisanal loaves; and pretzel rolls are part of the bread service at Marmalade Café and Jack Sprat's Grille.
But for classicists, the pretzel in true curvaceous form is a daily staple at Rockenwagner Bakery in Mar Vista. Owner Hans Rockenwagner has been a longtime fixture in the L.A. restaurant scene, and thanks to his Teutonic blood, he makes one fantastic German treat.
Rockenwagner's basic pretzel is properly chubby, flung together into a carefree, slightly lopsided knot; the hefty size provides a satisfying handle for our greedy little hands. The crust is baked to a deep mahogany shine and studded with coarse salt, creating a taut shell that snaps away to a soft, fluffy interior. It’s a toothsome treat as we make our way through the substantial crumb, getting a good salty note with each chew. Looking for some kind of specialty dip? It’s called mustard (dijon is available by request), and a dollop adds just the right bitter note.
The bakery also offers fancy pretzels with combinations of cheese, jalapeno, bacon and even a special-occasion sweet version made from the Berliner (doughnut) dough. Now if that doesn't bend your mouth happy...
Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
