Cupcake contenders: a bake-off

Vanilla Bake of Santa Monica meet Silverlake’s Lark Cake

By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix

July 17, 2007

Cupcake contenders: a bake-off
(Credit: Kenesha Sneed)
Photos:
Do you mind if I take another? We look so good on vintage Just like Mom's... Babes all in a row
Cupcakes? That was so 2005. 

Until now. Two bake shops have just opened up independently—on opposite sides of town—on the very same day. Are these gals late to the ball? And why are they wearing the same outdated dress? (Ladies, a quick confab would have really prevented any embarrassment). 
 

Or, dare I say, Cupcake: The Remix is at hand. It’s a tough call, but there’s only one way to handle the matter: Vanilla Bake of Santa Monica meet Silverlake’s Lark Cake. Consider this a bake-off.
 

Furnishings:
Lark: From the flat grey façade and spare signage (is that in Arial?) to the hand-sourced vintage furniture, Lark is a study in lean mid-century minimalism. A custom-made couch in brilliant-blue Sunbrella fabric just waits to be lounged upon.

Vanilla
: Right east of the 3rd Street Promenade, Vanilla’s boxy awning is covered in a swanky damask print that’s echoed across the imported wallpaper inside. Matte white chandeliers hang above stylish resin tables and chairs.

Verdict:
Nothing says the rich buttery goodness of baked goods like nouveau riche décor…in chocolate brown, no less. Point, Vanilla. 

Flavor:
Lark: My selections were oddly cold. (Refrigerated cake? A personal pet peeve.) Grrr. I let them thaw during the long car ride back to Metromix HQ. Later, the chocolate was deeply-flavored and not overly sweet—just the way I like. A colleague, however, said that it reminded him of Duncan Hines. Whatevs. 

The coconut cake—which was quite nice as a bite-size piece—just didn’t translate in larger proportion. But the carrot cake was the clear winner. A good balance of spice with a moist crumb and just the right amount of nuts.
 
Vanilla:
Popped in around four in the afternoon, and the bake racks were decimated. Cupcake-trend, out? I guess not.

I sampled the standards. Mom’s Birthday Cake was a yellow butter cake with a heartwarming name and a homespun look. A bit more salt than Mom would add, but the overall effect worked well with the sweet crunch of the sanding sugar coat. 
 

A good chocolate—not as deep in flavor as Lark but slightly sweeter for chocoholics who skew more towards the milk variety than the dark. The vanilla frosting was bursting with the flavor of their premium
Madagascar bourbon namesake. Plus, more lovely sanding sugar.  

The undoubted crowd favorite was the classic southern red velvet. The small bite that I managed to sneak in before the forks came a-flying was moist with the perfect balance of cocoa powder. A smooth cream cheese frosting sealed the deal.

Verdict: Vanilla wins this round, but I’m willing to give Lark another try once the kinks are worked out. (I know, tough job…)

Fee:
Lark: Still working the numbers. The day we stopped by, price per cupcake had just been upped 40-cents to $1.90. Nonetheless, a reasonable price for a reasonable-size cupcake. 

Vanilla:
Full-size cupcakes: $3.25; mini “cupcake babies”: three for $5. 

Verdict:
Simple math: Point, Lark.

Why we’re going back:
Lark: Additional seating—both inside and outside—soon to come. Sweets, a cup of LaMill coffee, and a blue-upholstered couch: not a shabby way to spend a lazy weekend afternoon. 

Vanilla:
A daily-changing schedule of new flavors. ‘Nuff said.

Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles.

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