Pile 'em high, Monsieur Marcel
(Credit: Cole Godvin)
We tour our favorite local Frenchies—both young and old—to find out their secrets to the perfect frite. We ask all the hard questions: Idaho or Yukon Gold? Peeled or unpeeled? How thick? How fried? If it's called aioli, are we still dipping it in mayo? (The answer to the last is yes.) And we bring the answers to you. Consider it, dear Angelenos, an opportunity to re-imagine and refine the humble french fry. As to the question of best, worst and least like something at McDonald's? We'll leave that terrible, raging war up to you. How trés Français of us.
The place: BLT Steak
The potato: "Russet-Burbank made and packaged by the GPOD Company," otherwise commonly known as Idaho potatoes.
The cut: Peeled, pressed through a fry-cutter with blades spaced at 1/4 inch, then soaked overnight to allow some of the starch to leach out.
The fry: Blanched in a solution of peanut and soy oil set at 300 degrees for about two minutes. Second fry is done at 375 degrees.
The dish: Salted and placed in a curled-up piece of butcher paper, the fries come á la carte or with lunch entrees of burgers and sandwiches.
Mayo or ketchup?: A decidely Californian cilantro-lime mayo.
The place: the Hall at Palihouse
The potato: Kennebec
The cut: Chef Stephanie O'Mary is not a fan of the skinny shoestring: "It's just not as satisfying," she says. The half-inch-thick fries at the Hall are gratifyingly robust.
The fry: Blanched in peanut oil, the fries "rest in refrigeration" slightly before a flash dip back in the oil.
The dish: Finished with rosemary, thyme, chives, salt and pepper, a heaping pile is available or with the steak frites, moules frites and brasserie burger.
Mayo or ketchup?: Ketchup—although O'Mary confessed to liking hers with béarnaise.
The place: Comme Ça
The potato: Idaho Russet
The cut: Peeled and hand-cut to 1/4-inch thick.
The fry: Soaked overnight, then put through a two-part Belgian fry process. Poached first in cool-ish peanut oil to cook through the starch, then—when an order is placed—the batch is fried at high temp to crisp the outside while the inside stays soft and moist from the initial bath. Peanut oil lends the cleanest fry and a touch of flavor, and offers the least likelihood of setting off adverse allergic reactions.
The dish: Seasoned with salt and served á la carte in a paper-lined metal cone, or alongside steak frites or moules frites (yes, hence the names, wise guy).
Mayo or ketchup?: House-made garlic aioli.
The place: Mes Amis
The potato: Idaho Russet
The cut: Shoestring at 1/8-inch thickness, semi-peeled and pressed through a french fry cutter.
The fry: Frozen first, then fried in canola oil.
The dish: Dusted with salt and parsley, it's only offered á la carte in a small, skillet-shaped casserole dish.
Mayo or ketchup?: Whatever you desire.
The place: Monsieur Marcel
The potato: GPOD of Idaho
The cut: Pressed to 1/4-inch thick.
The fry: Frozen first, then fried in canola oil.
The dish: Sprinkled with salt and herbes de Provence. Comes á la carte wrapped in wax paper and propped up in a metal cup, or served alongside the pollo pesto sandwich or kobe burger.
Mayo or ketchup?: Ketchup, aioli and mustard—all available.
The place: Café Flore
The potato: Red
The cut: Unpeeled, pre-cut to 1/4-inch thick.
The fry: Frozen first, then fried in canola oil.
The dish: Seasoned with salt and a little bit of dill. Popular with the steak and flammenkuche, but it's also available á la carte.
Mayo or ketchup?: Either, upon request.
The place: Le Petit Bistro
The potato: Ne sait pas. It's pre-cut and packaged frozen.
The cut: Shoestring.
The fry: Peanut oil.
The dish: Seasoned simply with salt, then served alongside steak or roasted chicken. The á la carte option is a hefty portion that comes in a napkin-lined woven basket.
Mayo or ketchup?: Whichever is requested.
The place: Café des Artistes
The potato: Idaho Russet
The cut: Peeled and pressed shoestring-style (thickness: anywhere from 1/4-3/8 inch) .
The fry: Fried fresh in 100 percent canola oil.
The dish: Tossed with a little sea salt. Served Belgian-style in a paper cone inside a wire basket, either á la carte or alongside dishes like moules frites, hanger steak and half roast chicken. At the bar, they’re on the house and available anytime.
Mayo or ketchup?: Ketchup.
The place: Figaro Bistro
The potato: Yep, more pre-cut action.
The cut: Shoestring.
The fry: Pocahontas-brand (sounds like a poor man's Land O'Lakes to us) creamy liquid deep-frying shortening.
The dish: Served á la carte in a small ceramic bowl or as an accompaniment to steak frites, rotisserie chicken or moules mariniere.
Mayo or ketchup?: Dijon mustard.
The place: Angelique Cafe
The potato: It's pre-cut and pre-packaged frozen here too.
The cut: Shoestring at 1/4-inch thickness.
The fry: The frozen sticks are thrown into canola oil or creamy vegetable shortening.
The dish: Salted and presented á la carte in a bowl or alongside specialties like duck au Cointreau and andouillette a l'ancienne.
Mayo or ketchup?: Ketchup.
The place: Taix
The potato: Idaho
The cut: Pressed to 1/2-inch thickness.
The fry: It goes in fresh into canola oil.
The dish: Dashed with salt and pepper, then served with rib-eye steak and sandwiches. Or order a plate's worth á la carte.
Mayo or ketchup?: Either, upon request.
