When Gordon Ramsay at the London hotel opened at the end of May, attention focused, of course, on the namesake, the celebrity chef himself. But what some may not realize is that ol’ Gordo doesn’t really have to show up that much: The kitchen is in the capable hands of one of his shiniest stars, chef de cuisine Andy Cook. Heading up what’s sure to be one of Ramsay’s most famous endeavors is pretty good for someone who “did absolutely fuck-all at school.” Good thing Cook found his passion afterward. He comes to L.A. after three years helming Gordon Ramsay Tokyo in Japan, but that’s not why sushi is on the menu. Cook matter-of-factly explains, “It’s important for customer service, and also revenue.” He’s sort of a chef mercenary—a culinary pragmatist who wants to please his customers—and we kind of like it.
Many people have questioned the restaurant’s decision to add sushi to the menu, but you brought over your Japanese sous chef, Harutaka Kishi. Do you think that's likely to draw true sushi connoisseurs?
We have a good idea of what we’re doing. The Western palate isn’t really attuned to a lot of the stuff the Japanese eat.
What are you doing to accommodate the Western palate?
We’re moving away from fine dining. We’re not trying to be a three-star Michelin restaurant. The standards are there, the style of service is similar, but we wanted to offer something more in tune to L.A.
It must be nice to have all these California products at your disposal.
In Japan the product is amazing too. Focusing on the product makes it easier in terms of coming up with a tasty dish.
Have you worked out all the sushi kinks yet?
We still have a long way to go. A lot of the products available in Japan aren’t available here, or they’re far too expensive to justify putting on the menu [so we’re experimenting with American products].
When do you think you’ll hit your stride?
The first year is about establishing yourself, the second year is about maintaining that standard, and the third year is really where you’ll see whether you’re a success or not.
What’s already particularly exciting on your menu?
We put pig’s head on the menu, which I thought was quite interesting for L.A. We didn’t just put it on the menu to say we’ve got pig’s head on the menu. We put it on the menu because it’s an exceptionally good dish, and it’s executed very well.
What’s your relationship like with the big man, Gordon Ramsay?
I’m in communication with Gordon on a regular basis—at least twice a week.
So there’s inspiration from Gordon, but you’re the one in the kitchen?
There becomes opportunity to express yourself. And [the company] promotes you as much as they promote the Gordon Ramsay name. You never feel like it’s just all about Gordon. The company offers so much support.
Have you found any time to eat elsewhere? Which L.A. restaurants are stacking up so far?
Comme Ça is quite nice because it’s reasonably priced, it has a good atmosphere, and the menu is pretty basic but the food is always executed well. Spago is always good. Cut was quite good. I’m looking forward to being able to have some free time eventually and checking out more restaurants.
It sounds like you’ve liked what you’ve tasted so far.
I’ve been to some restaurants which are supposed to be really good and been extremely disappointed. I’m not going to give you any names.
Darn. Anyway, are you keeping up with “Hell’s Kitchen”?
I don’t watch “Hell’s Kitchen.” I have my own Hell’s Kitchen.
But don’t you want to know who your new co-worker is?
Gordon assures me that they’re an interesting and keen and intelligent person.
Editor's note: Of course, we all know now that this interesting, keen and intelligent person is Christina, the rather cute and blond 25-year-old from the heartland who won this season of "Hell's Kitchen." Somehow we don't think she'll have a problem fitting in. (Chef Andy? Big flirt.)
Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
