Nuevo wave

Latest Latin restaurants amp up the glam…and the booze

By Katherine Spiers, Special to Metromix

March 5, 2008

Nuevo wave
Mucho sceney in Manhattan Beach (Credit: Lori Shepler)
Beso has been anticipated for months now, and interest in upscale Latin dining has definitely increased. With its celebrity backers and Hollywood location, Beso will add a bit of gringo-ized glamour and shine to Mexican food. Because sure, every Angeleno passionately claims a favorite hole-in-the-wall for fish tacos or al pastor or cabeza, but sometimes standing at the best truck on the block in 5-inch stilettos is just unwise.

Some occasions call for Cadillac margaritas and coconut mojitos, platters of saltado or plank-grilled sea bass, and lavish desserts. And hey, why not throw some salsa music—as long it doesn't involve Mr. and Mrs. J. Lopez—into the mix? It may seem a tall order, but with the recent influx of places that’ll set you back more than $1.50 a taco, it’s not impossible to get all of that in one night. Here’s a guide to the latest in glammed-up Latin restaurants, with props to those that inspired them.

What's new
Beso
Before it technically even opened, Beso received enough attention that we have a good idea what the restaurant is all about. The space will no doubt have huge pull with Hollywood folk, as it’s owned by celebrity chef Todd English and celebrity-celebrity Eva Longoria, who infamously associated herself with food by bringing pizzas to striking writers. Longoria describes the menu as Mexican-American, and apparently many of the dishes have been culled from her own recipes (sure they have). While Latin cuisine isn’t English’s defining cuisine (as yet), he isn’t one to put out a sub-par product. Expect a mix of suspicious foodies and soon-to-be-drunk clubbers.

Reminds us of...

Madre’s: Celebrity ownership as a selling point is, frankly, a bit cheesy. Jennifer Lopez and Eva Longoria are also a bit cheesy.
Malo: The self-described Chicano cuisine at this Hollywood hangout made it cool to blend Mexican and U.S. flavors without veering into the realm of Chili's. It has also stayed busy long past the point of trendiness, which we predict Beso will do as well.

What's new
Mojitos

This Cuban/Caribbean joint is so tantalizingly close to hipness…but it’s in Pasadena. Even so, the specialty mojitos—made with sweet ingredients like mango or pineapple and fresh sugar cane—are probably capable of getting their own party started. Plus, the plates are huge and filled to the very brim.

Reminds us of...
Xiomara: Well, the similarities are obvious. Mojitos is in the old Xiomara location; the new Xiomara is in Hollywood.
Cha Cha Cha: The WeHo location recently closed. While the original one in Silverlake is still around, folks may want to keep heading east for their Caribbean-and-fruity-drinks fix.

What's new
Tinto
The owners call this restaurant the only authentic Spanish tapas place in town—though that was before Pintxo arrived. The food is excellent, the scene is fun, and the sangria kicks some major booty.

Reminds us of...
Ciudad: It's not Spanish, but Ciudad is a serious restaurant to take that serious someone to. So is Tinto. Just add a splash of mood-elevating libation for the perfect foodie-drunkie date.

What's new

Bar Pintxo
This Santa Monica newbie is very Spanish indeed, both food-wise and space-wise (it's tiny), and it’s helmed by an accomplished chef. Know that your mini plate of bacon-wrapped dates can only be accompanied by Spanish wines; the list is even more “authentic” than anything you’d find in Spain.

Reminds us of...
La Serenata di Garibaldi: The Santa Monica location has long been an oasis of serenity and semi-refined cuisine near the Promenade's cultural desert, and Pintxo just may do the same. Of course, the cultural awakening Pintxo offers is a bit boozier—hence the word "bar" in its name.

What's new
Amaranta
Located in a mall in the Valley, no one really comes to this Mexican restaurant with raised expectations. But the menu still manages to surprise many: There are no burritos! The bar is there to ease your shock with a massive liquor selection that includes about 400 tequilas in addition to the rum, vodka, etc.

Reminds us of...
Mexicali: The focus at this overpriced yuppified favorite has always been on the drinks rather than the food.
Babita: They redefined Mexican cuisine for many with their once-revolutionary menu: no burritos! Amaranta owes Babita a lot for that.

What's new
Lima
The food is firmly in focus at this Peruvian restaurant (again, in the Valley), but Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights turn the restaurant into a club—with a cover charge and everything. Who knows if that will fly long-term, but good for Lima for trying it.

Reminds us of...
El Floridita: The classic one-stop dinner and dancing spot has been livening up the same depressing strip mall forever. Younger L.A. residents are always trying to get in, but the regulars usually book up the tables first. Maybe Lima will catch some overflow.

What's new

Mucho Ultima Mexicana
The interior is swanky like a lounge, and the $11 drinks follow suit. Entrees and appetizers may be on a the tame side, but it makes sharing with a group that much easier. The kitchen gets major style points for made-to-order churros with two sauces.

Reminds us of...
Border Grill: Mucho's Manhattan Beach–side location takes a page from the original Too Hot Tamales collaboration in Santa Monica: The bar space is just as prominent as the main dining room. While many critics have treated it favorably, some have walked away grumbling about lackluster experiences. Wait, are we talking about Border Grill or Mucho Ultima?

Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.

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