Pizza, pizza…pizza, pizza?

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Wanna start a food fight? Mention pizza, then duck for cover when the verbal pies start flying.

You can imagine what might happen when two new pizzerias—Tomato Pie and Andiamo—not only open up in the same neighborhood, but also tread on the territory of longtime favorites Nicky D’s and Hard Times. Suddenly, the environs of Silverlake are laden with all manner of cheese, tomato and yeasty dough. This isn’t just a pizza throwdown—it’s a full-contact battle royal. Who’s gonna come out on top?

Hard Times
The name of this joint is fitting: There was a time when this place was considered an institution. With a change in management, though, many Silverlakers claim it’s a sad shell of its former glory. We decided to check for ourselves.

The crib: The decor is your stereotypical “Go Italia!” color scheme of red, green and white tiles. A flickering neon sign lures passersby like moths to a flame. We wonder what it takes to get on the wall of Polaroid fame…
The pie: Hard Times Deluxe, medium; 15 inches; $18
The taste: The pie comes with sausage, pepperoni, bell peppers, mushrooms, onions and black olives. Unfortunately, other than the name, there’s nothing deluxe about it. The coarsely chopped onions and bell peppers dominate the rest of the pizza, overwhelming the potentially big meaty flavors. The sauce is inconsequential.
The crust: Somewhat bland and indistinct, it puts your jawbone through a workout. The chewy density may have a dough press to blame, we spy in the kitchen. Obviously, no hand-tossing here.
The verdict: DiGiorno’s would be a better bet. Pity points for a by-the-slice option.

Nicky D’s
The Silverlake mainstay has been serving up pies for nearly a decade, and with good reason. Even interlopers from the Westside brave the twisty-turn of Rowena Avenue to sample Nicky's quality ingredients and local charms.

The crib: The setting is home-sweet-homey, which makes sense since the space is a converted house.
The pie: Nicky D’lux, medium; 14 inches; $17.95
The taste: It's piled high with pepperoni, sausage, mushrooms, black olives, bell peppers and onions. The freshness of the ingredients really pops, and the sausage is especially enjoyable, if a little on the sweet side. It's actual sliced Italian sausage, unlike at Hard Times.
The crust: Wood-fired and rolled thin, the crust has the most svelte profile of the bunch. The D’lux may be too d’manding for the thin foundation, though. It’s floppy where it should be crispy. A simple pepperoni would better highlight the chewy-inside/crunchy-outside interplay of the thin crust.
Bonus points: Nicky D is usually in the house, and he’s a charmer. He also boasts a role in “Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles II: The Secret of the Ooze” as (what else?) the pizza guy.
The verdict: At the end of the day, Nicky D’s isn't our overwhelming favorite, but there’s a reason why loyalists fight tooth-and-nail to defend its honor. Besides, what’s good enough for the Turtles is totally awesome for us.

Tomato Pie Pizza Joint
Approximately six-week into a soft opening, Tomato Pie has already garnered some hype—due, in no small part, to some aggressive door-to-door advertising. Pies are already flying out of faster than owner Garrett Policastro (who once worked at Hard Times) can toss into the air.

The crib: The unassuming storefront is hidden behind a hair salon at the awkward intersection of Hyperion Avenue and Tracy Street. This is the second Tomato outpost; the first is on Melrose.
The pie: Joe P, medium; 15 inches; $14
The taste: Toppings are top-notch: crushed marinated tomatoes, hot Italian sausage, bell peppers, onion, mozzarella and parmesan, all in harmonious proportions. However, on this day, the sauce is too salty, something that Policastro already picks up on. He asks that we come back to give it another try.
The crust: Drool-inducing, with a distinct savory flavor and an airy but substantial bite. We’re close to looking for leftover crusts at empty tables—it’s that good.
Bonus points: After a dust-up at Hard Times, Policastro headed to New York City to hone his pizza-making skills.
The verdict: The gloves are off, and this killer Tomato pulls no punches. We manage a second visit, and the sauce is perfect. Between that and the craveable crust, we’re already planning visit No. 3—and more.

Andiamo
How can you go wrong these days with designer-chic sustainability to gird a restaurant opening? It’s better than a brand label. Andiamo, the other newbie in town, may be pizza for an eco-conscious tomorrow, but it’s still gotta taste better than the corn-based plastic disposa-ware. Here's what we found.

The crib: At Andiamo, tangerine is the new green. Vinyl wainscoting is coordinated on top of earth-toned walls. The delivery scooters are also tangerine, with matching tangerine parking spaces. Polished concrete floors and art from local artists set a gallery vibe.
The pie: Signore Roberto, medium; 14 inches; $15.50
The taste: Signore Roberto is loaded with mozzarella, sweet Italian sausage, capicola, prosciutto, salami, Sicilian olives and fresh herbs. The seemingly ambitious combination actually works well together, allowing each flavor to have a distinct say. The sauce is made from organic tomatoes, giving the ’za an extra zing. (We’re also surprised to learn that most ingredients are organic, considering the paltry price tag.) The olives cut into what could have been a bloated meat extravaganza.
Bonus points: Delivery boys and girls are über-cute. The owner must run a modeling agency on the side, as every single staff member seems moments away from an American Apparel ad.
The verdict: Andiamo! That’s Italian for, “Get your butts in here to chow down on some amazing pies—and give Mother Earth a big tree-hug while you’re at it.”