(Credit: istock/Carmen Vorse)
Rosé has been making a big comeback, overcoming a lot of bad associations along the way. Fine, it’s pink, you burly Cab connoisseur. And the color is the main reason why rosé is often mistaken for white Zinfandel—the cloying Rossi or Gallo jug stuff that took off in the ‘80s, torturing us with terrible ads that looked like Mentos commercials, but in pseudo sophisticated speak. Luckily, the rosé of the new millennium is not your stepmother’s white Zin.
Josh Evans, owner of Jack Wines, has no problem drinking pink. “I’m a big fan of rosé,” he says. “I drink quite a lot of it. It’s red wine that can be chilled; a red wine that’s refreshing [like white wine].” In fact the Jack label launched in spring 2006 with its signature rosé. Jack also has the added distinction of being one of the few Napa Valley wineries to produce the wine from Grenache grapes (most Napa rosés are Pinot). The result is a deeper ruby hue and a full, complex body—or as we like to say in our wine ignorance, it’s particularly tasty. We’re also notorious for nursing our glass, so we appreciate how it holds up throughout a meal.
Evans, a Southland resident and former owner of CrepeVine Bistro in Pasadena, recently helped us dispel some common misconceptions.
Is it a blend of white and red wines?
“No, no. It’s 100% red wine. [In the French method], rosé is produced from the free-run juice that naturally flows from the harvested grapes before they’re crushed. Rather than letting all that juice go to waste, it’s barreled. So rosé is really a red—just lighter color. It’s a lighter shade of red.”
It’s so sweet. It’s like liquid candy, no?
“French rosés are all dry, bone dry. Actually, you don’t get as much of a hangover because, you know, there are no added sugars.”
Is it going to cost a pretty penny?
“With rosés, you shouldn’t have to pay more than 20 bucks. You’ll find that most fall within the $8-20 range. It’s a good price point.”
As for Valentine’s or other amorous concerns, you've got to admit, rosé is dressed the pretty part. Evans encourages meeting halfway: “Ordering a bottle wouldn’t be a bad idea,” he says. “It’s a perfect match…as long as someone can get past the ego.” Ah, therein lies the rub.
You may sample Jack rosé at Library Bar or Violet Restaurant. Or, check your ego and pick up a bottle at The Nose Wine Cellar. Jack Wines will also rebottle the '07 rosé this May.
Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles
