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This Paris-by-way-of-sandy-shores bistro celebrated its 30th year in 2007 with a makeover in ooh-la-la blue and vampy red. Owner and chef Guy Gabriele is an institution himself, not only in the South Bay, but in culinary circles writ large: He’s buddy-buddy with such giants as Michel Richard, Jacques Pepin and the late, great Julia Child. What started in the ’70s as a creperie now exalts in classic dishes of escargots, rabbit and loup de mer, as well an excellent selection of French cheeses. The self-respecting Frenchman that he is, Gabriele also cures his own charcuterie.

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