Anatomy of: sustainability

Happy cows got game

Heard about the grass-gratified cow? This perfectly medium-rare flatiron steak ain’t it—it’s certified Black Angus from Greater Omaha. It’s hormone-free, but the certification, Oberholtzer concedes, indicates premium beef that’s great for eating but not necessarily organic or eco-conscious. “The happy cow does not make a good flatiron or New York steak. It’s gamey, and not in the good way. At the end of the day, we’re also in the business of giving people a product they would enjoy.” Tender Greens does offer some organic, locally sourced specialty beef items, such as braised short ribs.