Out on Thai Town

Time: don't ask

The first thing I learn about Thai Town is that the area is most frequently visited at 2 a.m., when local bars empty of the riffraff. Strip malls like Thailand Plaza get packed with hill-and-valley crowds sobering up on predictable but comforting dishes of pad thai. It’s entirely possible that all that basil and lemongrass scentedness is a secret hangover curative. Still, I head for the fringes of town to find the real gems.

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