Torihei restaurant in Torrance | The fresh fish cake is without fault—a faintly fishy triangle that floats with the same airy texture as a marshmallow | Photo 3/6 | Metromix Los Angeles

Torihei restaurant in Torrance | The fresh fish cake is without fault—a faintly fishy triangle that floats with the same airy texture as a marshmallow | Photo 3/6 | Metromix Los Angeles

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The fresh fish cake is without fault—a faintly fishy triangle that floats with the same airy texture as a marshmallow

The fresh fish cake is without fault—a faintly fishy triangle that floats with the same airy texture as a marshmallow

Credit:Stefano Paltera / For The Times

At Torihei in Torrance, chefs Masataka Hirai and Masakazu Sasaki have created an incredible union of oden and yakitori dishes.

It's lunch time!

Long-simmered daikon is turned nearly translucent by its time in the subtly salty dashi

The fresh fish cake is without fault—a faintly fishy triangle that floats with the same airy texture as a marshmallow

Chef Masataka Hirai grills yakitori skewers

The restaurant's charcoal grill turns out a daunting but gratifying whole grilled squid

The meatballs are fluffy spheres that melt in your mouth like some meaty candy

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