First impressions: Akasha

Hearty and dangerous (Credit: Stefano Paltera)

I really should have known better. It’s 8 p.m. on a Saturday night, and I don’t have reservations. Yes, willful optimism gets the better of me sometimes, but in this case, I’m thinking Akasha’s cavernous space means that seating won’t be a problem.

Problem: The week-and-a-half-old restaurant is seriously jumping, with a crowd that seems to care less about chef/owner Akasha Richmond’s sustainable ethos and more about getting its drink on. I note with some surprise that there are a bunch of dudes scattered around the impressive L-shaped bar that anchors one side of the dining room. Organic? Sustainable? Didn’t think that bros would be into getting crunchy.

The hostess says she can seat us in the bakery. She suggests we wait by the bar, but instructs that we must return to her in 15 minutes. It's strange that we have to come find her and not vice versa, considering that the bar is only 10 feet away from her station. But the hostess is so lovely with her charming Commonwealth accent—the din makes it hard to distinguish what part of the British Empire it’s from—that my date and I mindlessly comply.

Luckily, two of the 20 seats at the bar open up as we approach, and with the full menu available before us, we settle in. Now I have a better vantage point to scope out the stylish space, with its exposed brick and concrete, high-arched windows and industrial ducts that curve amidst the Miro-inspired lighting. It’s a historic building that once housed a series of Italian restaurants, and this latest incarnation convinces me that watching Akasha on the premiere episode of “Flip That Restaurant” may not be such a hokey idea after all.

Much has been made of the cocktail menu, and I quickly find out why. The Free Radical is made with house-made acai juice, and I just about inhale the smooth solution. The bartender pours out the dregs of different cocktails for me to sample through the rest of the night, confirming my recent love affair with dining at the bar.

For whatever reason, when people hear “sustainable” and “organic,” they think “vegan.” But aside from the desserts and baked goods, there aren’t many strict vegan options on the menu. In fact, that’s real cheese in the surprisingly gratifying mac and cheese, and most of the entrees are meat-based. While my date gets a decently prepared but very, very petite steak for $25, I attempt, based on the enthusiasm of our vegetarian bartender, an animal-free bowl of mung beans and rice. The accompanying raita and tomato chutney are refreshing, but the puree seems more like something I could have picked up at Whole Foods.

The bartender returns to our side of the bar. She asks how I’m liking her recommendation as she empties the contents of her cocktail shaker into an old-fashioned glass. Without missing a beat, I pick up the brilliant Red Velvet margarita and tell her everything’s just fine.

Food: Contemporary American renditions with a commitment to sustainable and organic products.

Scene: The irrepressible influx of foodies into downtown Culver City. And people who like to drink.

Insider tip: Just because the bread service is multi-grain and hearty doesn't mean that it isn't dangerously delicious.

Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles.

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