Okay, not totally perfect. We suppose Amarone can’t help its spot on the Sunset Strip. The owner must have gotten a good deal on rent, so we’ll forgive the curiosity of this near-perfect restaurant in the culinary wasteland of mechanical bulls and lingerie-clad waitresses…um, we mean "servers.”
Luckily, no such shenanigans—half-naked or otherwise—take place inside Amarone. All energy is in the kitchen, which is turning out some of the best Italian food in the city. Even the bread service is memorable: three kinds of bread with tapenade, marinated bell peppers and herbed ricotta. If flatbread spread with ricotta is the tastiest thing we have all evening, we’d be more than happy about it.
But there’s no need to live on bread alone at Amarone. The grilled calamari, which comes highly recommended by owner Alessandro Polastri, is hands-down the best thing on the menu. If you usually opt for the more pedestrian—still totally delicious—fried version, we beg you to give grilled squid a shot. At Amarone, it’s spicy, sweet, savory…and kind of sexy, honestly. Ooooh, so tentacle-y.
If tentacles aren’t really your thing—and we can’t imagine why—the pastas are incredibile. If specials are available, be sure to try one. Our favorites come with ragu Bolognese or sausage and tomatoes. The pasta itself is prepared truly to-the-tooth, and it’s perfect. Alessandro clearly delights in describing the dishes to guests. Have trouble deciding? Alessandro is your guide.
The staff is also quite enthusiastic about wine: The red—from Sicily, no less—works beautifully with both the squid and meaty pasta. But it’s not the only vino flowing in our system that evening. As a one-month anniversary celebration, the restaurant is practically throwing wine at guests. Prosecco is offered upon our arrival, and toward the end of the meal, dessert wine and crème brûlée magically appear at our table. (Yes, yes—crème brûlée is French, but as Italians aren’t really dessert-loving people, they’ve got to poach sweets from other Europeans.)
That generosity of spirit infuses every part of Amarone. The tiny restaurant has packed in all the best parts of Italian culture—food, wine, hospitality, even pop music. Get there early and get there often, lest it be sucked into the trendy, cheese-tastic vortex of the Strip.
Food: Classic, unpretentious, incredibile—just as Italian food should be.
Mood: So, so, so romantic; Sunset Strip location be damned.
Insider tip: As tempting as it is, don’t fill up on the amazing bread service. The meal only gets better from there.
Katherine Spiers is contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
