Home > Los Angeles Restaurants > Restaurant Review > First impressions: Food Court L.A.

“Is that what they really want to call themselves?” we thought as we approached the mod chocolate-brown awning with the name “Food Court L.A.” inscribed in an equally poppy, diminutive font. It’s a brazen move, creating an identity wholly out of two seeming pejoratives. Say “food court” or “L.A.” to any culinary zealot and you might as well be offering them Applebee’s or throwing down a ‘yo-mama.’

What would we find? Buzzing fluorescent lights and wobbly tables? To our pleasant surprise, the interior court presented an intimate, inviting watering hole of dark wood tables, large mirrors and candlelight that played against the big orange circles painted on the walls and ceiling. The menu, as was to be expected, riffed off the suggested diversity of its name—a hodgepodge of everything from “The Burger” to bento boxes and a grilled cheese sandwich with an oh-so-cosmopolitan title of “Le Fromage” as well as all the expected dishes like seared tuna (listed as “Seared Sashimi”), mac-and-cheese (called “Mac n Cheese”) and braised short ribs (here, it’s pork not beef).

On a recent Tuesday evening, the restaurant was peppered with a few casual diners and a jazzy electronic mix added to the mellow, moody vibe. It was clear that the place was still in its early stages—the bento boxes weren’t in stock yet and the wine list had yet to be printed up.

We started with the mac and cheese, which came baked in a boat with applewood smoked bacon, and the seared albacore with an “ichimi-kissed” ponzu sauce. The kiss was hardly gentle—a sprinkling of red chili flakes added a welcome kick to the raw fish. Comfort food-meets-ambiguous-Japanese fusion: it actually worked surprisingly well. Perhaps it was the fried onions and jalapeño of the tuna that bridged the gap.

While the idea of having brunchy items of omelettes or chicken apple sausage (which are offered until closing) was super-tempting, we opted for grown-up meat entrees. The braised pork ribs were glazed in a sweet, merlot reduction while the Latchino (a fusion of Latin and Chinese) steak was cooked down in ancho chile, cumin and ponzu until tender. Both were heavy, but delicious.

Would it be our Third Street destination of choice? With Joan’s new renovation on one end and A.O.C. bookending the other, not likely. But considering that this Food Court is open until 1 a.m. every night, it’s a great spot for a nightcap at a sidewalk table, especially when the street grows quiet and parking spots open up.  

Food: As sprawling and trendy as a food court, with a flair for fusion mash-ups. Sorry, no Orange Julius in sight.

Drinks: Beer, wine, sangria and a list of specialty cocktails, including the Star*ucker Martini, a blend of Starbucks coffee liquor, vodka and Godiva chocolate.

Scene: Casual locals mixed with stylish boutique hoppers—beware as they steer their designer shopping bags through the dining room. At night, the restaurant gets moodier, with candlelight and couples.

Insider tip: The service is hard to beat. When my dining companion asked where to buy cigarettes nearby, our server actually sent a busboy to pick up a pack.

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