(Credit: Rachel Coleman)
Given that goats aren’t the most discerning of eaters—their four-chambered stomachs can break down nearly anything, even the occasional tin can—they make an odd mascot for a restaurant helmed by chef Robert Luna, who also opened Malo. But if you ask us, this new animal identity is preferable to that of previously rumored concept “Wyeth” (supposedly after painter Andrew Wyeth). This name’s punchy, you know, like that other GOAT—the Greatest Of All Time, Muhammad Ali.
GOAT has tattooed itself over the former chinois-happi decor. The walls are still covered in multicolored wood planks, but red faux-leather banquettes and mismatched chairs lend more of a bistro feel. A billy goat stamp is used liberally on the menus, paper placements and even the dining receipts. The smiling, bearded, curly-horned creature is beyond goofy; it’s hard to order with a straight face.
But the menu itself is no laughing matter. The flash-fried goat cheese and figs with brown butter may not have the prettiest presentation (three rounds scattered haphazardly on an oversized plate), but this is a destination dish, one worth driving across town for.
Our entrees hit their marks too. The skirt steak is a tender cut, a touch on the salty side and definitely greasier than its counterpart at Cobras & Matadors, but delicious nonetheless with perfectly seasoned sweet potato frites. More figs and goat cheese round out the meal for dessert, this time successfully paired with rosemary bread pudding that resembles a sloppy French toast.
It’ll be interesting to see where GOAT fits in Arroyo’s harem of restaurants—it’s not begging for the scene of Malo or Cobras & Matadors, nor does it exude the high-mindedness of 750 ml. For now, it’s a place to linger with a date or with friends over a little Chet Baker and a glass of wine. For casual comfort food with a touch of class, it looks we found our new goat-to place.
Food: Americana with plenty of goat cheese.
Scene: Leisurely neighborhood bistro.
Insider tip: Need flowers for your date? Rita Flora is right next door.
