Pizza with Christmas cheer
(Credit: Amir Kenan)
So when Joe's of NYC's Bleeker Street—a popular pizza-by-the-slice outfit which has fed hungry Manhattanites on their way to work, to lunch dates with three sex-obsessed gal pals or their next mob hit—recently opened in Santa Monica, it was hard for us to just fuggedaboutit (sorry, couldn't resist).
The new Joe's is just down the street from Santa Monica Place, the good-as-dead mall that anchors the Third Street Promenade. Park at the free-for-three-hours lot and walk down to Joe's. We recommend holding your breath as you pass the frighteningly outdated food court, from which emanates a toxic aroma of something called Charlie's Kebab, a Hot Dog on a Stick, and Charlie's Burger. (Who the heck is this Charlie, anyway?)
Inside, you'll find a tiny, tidy space with bright white walls, a few round tables—and not much else. The layout lets you know that this pizza's meant to be eaten fast—or better yet, on the go. And the ridiculously large staff, whose motto seems to be "if you ain't cookin' pizza, you're sweepin' imaginary dirt" is friendly in that Michael Rapaport kind of way.
There were a few signs that Joe's is still in its West Coast infancy and working out some kinks: my 12 oz. glass bottle of Coke was served with cap still on (no biggie), and my slices could have been warmed through a couple minutes longer (kind of a biggie).
So how's the pizza? With a 30-year tradition as a New York heavyweight—and a cameo in "Spider-Man 2"—expectations were running high. Though no New York water is mythically flown in for these pizzas, the crust is satisfyingly chewy, the outside edge slightly charred. And one of Joe's greatest features is definitely its sweet, tangy sauce, which will remind you that tomatoes are fruit.
I started with the sausage and red onion slice, which was a bit of a downer, hampered by an overwhelming flavor of black pepper and nowhere near as complex or as satisfying as La Buca's fennel-laced sausage pizza, still the best sausage pie in town.
If you can only get one slice at Joe's, skip the regular cheese slice and head directly for the buffalo mozzarella, with islands of white, gooey cheese, fresh basil and a sea of sauce. Perfect colors for the holiday season, unless you're Jewish and the red, green and white motif will only serve as a reminder of yet another season of receiving coins made out of chocolate while your friends all get PS3s.
Food: It's not New York–style pizza; it's New York–import pizza.
Scene: Bleeker Street in Santa Monica is bleak indeed. Grab your pizza and pop to go unless you like the mournful sweep of a broom to accompany your meal.
Insider tip: If you're lucky enough to own a snazzy Metromix-embossed bottle opener-keychain, you'll need it for the Cokes.
Amir Kenan is contributing editor for Metormix Los Angeles.
