First impressions: Laurel Tavern

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Sapphire was a gem of a bar on Ventura Boulevard in Studio City, its windowless blue facade sheltering dimly lit rooms of slinky patrons draped on low-slung couches nursing vintage cocktails. It was a bit of old Hollywood in the Valley. But owner Will Shamlian, the lounge impresario behind Library Bar, the Chalet and 4100 Bar, decided to trade in the martini shaker for the beer tap.

His nascent Laurel Tavern, in the old Sapphire spot, bears little resemblance to its predecessor. Gone is the swank; in its place are the camaraderie and coziness of a New York-style gastropub. The windowless exterior has given way to hinged windows that fold out to create an inviting open-air setting. The interior is a study in rustic contemporary textures: salvaged wood floors, exposed brick, walls accented in steel tiles and quilted leather. Indirect light from filament bulbs perched above the bar and frosted sconces creates an alluring atmosphere. The welcoming spirit is underscored by a greeter, who explains that all ordering is done at the bar (no table service) and that the menu is written on the chalkboard.

The place is packed, even though it’s midweek. The tables buzz with 20- and 30-somethings engaged in lively conversation. We’re lucky to snag a table just as someone leaves; ordering is another trial. With the bar stools and adjacent communal table full with patrons watching the Lakers, it takes a bit of work to get one of the three bartenders’ attention. On weekend nights when the throng is even thicker, this ordering system could prove to be quite a chore.

Good thing the barkeeps are attentive and knowledgeable about the selection of more than two dozen all-American craft beers on draft. The beer menu, curated by “beer chick” Christina Perozzi, features selections like Hollywood Blonde and Lost Coast Apricot Wheat, all $6 or under. There’s also more than a token wine selection for those who eschew the brew.

After weighing the relative merits of lagers, ales and IPAs, choosing food seems like a simple task. The tight menu features hearty pub grub and is heavy on the pork and cheese. There are mini croque-monsieurs, steak fries cooked in pork fat, a butcher's plate of charcuterie and cheese, chorizo fondue and pork belly skewers. Those sidestepping the hog can choose from a couple of burger selections, steamed Penn Cove mussels and grilled artichoke. Needless to say, this isn’t the place for a vegan outing.

Our favorite dishes are easily the pork belly skewers and the “old school” burger. The skewers are lollipops of smoky fat and crispy meat with a hint of anise seed and a maple glaze. The burger is almost childlike in composition—beef, bread and ketchup—but the juicy patty, split bakery bun and tomatoey goodness cancel the need for fancy toppings. Unfortunately, the accompanying French fries are unremarkable, and the chorizo fondue proves too oily and heavy. Luckily, the grilled artichoke topped with julienned orange peel is a respite from all the richness.

It’s too bad there's no dessert—may we suggest a sundae with chocolate ale?—but we linger over another round of beers. The sit-all-night vibe is infectious (and probably accounts for the slow table turnover). Though you won't be pampered by table service, Laurel Tavern is an ideal place to grab a good burger, unite friends from city and valley, and please both the beer and wine factions of your crew. At once polished and rough-hewn, it's a gem of its own kind.

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