See, this is for eating.
(Credit: LA Times/Barbara Thompson)
It’s a strange turn of phrase, but eating bar is what the hostess calls it. Our group eventually figures out the reason for her pointedness: A lot of patrons just don’t get the purpose of the bar otherwise. We’re seated an hour and a half after our arrival—to show up without reservations is to kill time at the Albertson’s down the street—and two groups who were stationed at the bar when we arrived are still camped out as we’re ordering dessert. And they aren’t even eating!
Unsurprisingly, the hostesses are hating on those people, quite audibly and vociferously. But what can be done? There’s really no way to provide good service while kicking someone out, even if they are annoying.
Perhaps Los Feliz is too far east for the high-minded concept of an eating bar. Certain members of the cool-kids crowd seem to be obtuse, sometimes willfully so, about a sense of worldliness—some can't tell the difference between a bar for eating and a bar for drinking, for example.
The atmosphere, once you get seated, is pretty fun. The staff is friendly, the music is good, and the wine list is long. Generally, the food is the weak point at Little Dom’s. It’s not bad, exactly, but it’s overpriced and the kitchen seems to be afraid of seasonings. The chickpea fries with fontina fonduta sound interesting, but the only exciting flavor comes from the cheese dusted over the fries, while the sauce tastes mostly of flour. The baked ricotta and mushrooms appetizer is similarly boring.
It’s especially disappointing because it’s obvious they’re using quality ingredients. The butter that comes with the bread service is outstanding—but served ice cold. Ugh, what a waste. (C’mon, Little Dom’s, get it together! We believe in you.) The desserts showcase the kitchen’s worth: Everything is house-made, and the Meyer lemon sorbetto is perfect. The butternut squash fritters may not have much squash in them, but they are the absolute best doughnut holes I’ve ever experienced.
The restaurant really does have potential. The owners should invest in some delicious herbs and spices, and a staff that will tell you to order food or get the hell out. Maybe a few scenesters will learn some foodie wherewithal along the way.
Food: For the time being, desserts are the highlight; entrees are solid but unexciting.
Scene: The whole range of Angelenos, from wine snobs to those who aren’t totally sure what wine is made from.
Insider tip: That $5 Monday pizza night you’ve heard so much about? Ain’t happening, at least not yet. Apparently that news was “misinformation leaked to the press.”
Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
