Husband-and-wife owners Marty and Sandy Davidson—he’s a Hollywood director, she’s an interior designer who most notably worked on the Foundry—have created a ’50s-era luncheonette with all the retro trappings. Red tabletops, checkerboard tiles and a vintage soda fountain (with jerks to boot) conjure up Coney Island summers, even for jaded Angelenos who’ve only seen such things onscreen.
Entree choices consist entirely of dogs; but like other wieners we know, they come in many varieties. The standard, we imagine, is Marty D’s all-beef, while Sandy D’s chicken sausage variety should appease gourmet palates. A vegan alternative with sun-dried tomatoes and basil, plus a wee weiner for kids round out the mix. We head straight for the classic and aren’t disappointed. The all-beef is the real deal—thick, juicy and kosher, just as it’s described in the menu, with the right amount of garlic and paprika. But it’s a whopping $7.99—that’s $1 per inch, if you’re keeping count.
The accouterments are equally tasty: tangy sauerkraut, dill pickle and, best of all, an excellent sweet-onion relish that’s served warm. Side dishes get creative, and include unexpected options such as an iceberg lettuce wedge, potato knishes and Boston baked beans. The ubiquitous french fries still manage to stand out. Thin, crisp and completely non-greasy, they're like really good bistro pommes frites.
Even the drink menu is carefully considered and thematically appropriate. Sodas come in glass bottles, and that retrofitted soda fountain actually works. It makes a worthy egg cream, one with Fox’s U-Bet chocolate syrup—which probably means nothing unless you’re an ex-East Coaster from a particular generation. The fountain also ably handles ice cream specialties, a substantial list of sundaes and banana splits; one is an eight-scoop behemoth called the Works. Price tag? $24.99. At Marty’s, you gotta go big.
Food: Sausages, sundaes and soda works—at steep prices.
Scene: Westside families and packs of single East Coast expats who look like they’re straight out of Entourage.
Insider tip: Though a vegetarian at Marty D’s is sorta like considering ham for Shabbat dinner, many menu items, such as the meatless chili, are veggie-friendly.
