Open since 2002, Max restaurant is an old standard now, a favorite in its Sherman Oaks neighborhood. Owner and executive chef Andre Guerrero is also something of a public figure. He’s the force behind other popular restaurants—he opened nearby Señor Fred and runs the Oinkster in Eagle Rock—as well as a regular participant in demonstrations and festivals. So it came as something of a surprise recently when Max's menu and decor were quietly overhauled.
Love it or hate it, the new interior is certainly a look. The pristine white-on-white formality of the original dining room has been replaced by a warm color palette of brick red against mustardy yellow and dark brown. The gold-etched wallpaper is a bold choice, as are the giant wood panels fitted lattice-like across the ceiling.
The menu really shines with the starters. Choices span the globe, from house smoked salmon to lamb pita. East Asian dishes are especially delectable: Shrimp Firecracker packs irresistible savory-sweetness into fried spring rolls and kicks the crave-ability up further with a cilantro-mint sauce that we almost want to drink from the ramekin. And the steamed pork buns are not the snow-white fluffy orbs we’re all accustomed to, but taco-like creations with cucumbers and kimchi playing off the porcine richness.
L.A. of late has been all about porky treats. Here, the Kurobuta pork belly confit on a bed of bok choy and roasted peaches is almost too decadent to believe. It’s a tiny portion, but as much as we want to continue stuffing our mouths with crispy pork skin and juicy, caramelized peaches, we can’t finish the plate. Exotic numbers such as this are offset by steaks (hanger and New York), chicken and even a namesake burger—none of which entice, but we gather their presence caters to less adventurous diners. The menu itself seems available for constant change: Miso black cod, a specialty from the old Max, is listed as a special but has been requested so often that the restaurant is splanning to bring it back full time.
Of course, not everything is destined to be a classic. The beef short ribs disappoint, with a sauce so earthy we wonder, at first, if it's simply gone south. We’re willing to forgive a few lapses, and the new Max is quite good on the whole. It’s different, sure, but now it’s so much more accessible. With an admirably edited list of organic and conventional beers, it works as a place to pair Belgian beer with crab dumplings and sticky rice. Valley residents will just have to make room for long-distance fans who'll undoubtedly make Max a destination restaurant once again.
Food: Pub portions of Cal-Asian creativity, plus steaks, chicken and Caesar salad.
Scene: A happy, talkative but low-key mix of suburbanites and city dwellers.
Insider tip: Guerrero’s flair for Asian technique comes through in items like the rotating side of pickled vegetables and the halo halo on the dessert menu.
Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
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