(Credit: Cole Godvin)
I braved the hellish mid-morning, midweek drive across town hoping to find some of the Wednesday haul on the menu. The brand-new Monsieur was easy to find: It’s smack-dab in the center of 3rd St., in a quirky oval structure that must have been a newsstand at one point. The space now houses an outdoor café, a to-go counter and a covered wine bar. Country French is obviously out; the new outpost is a sleek glass affair that permits an unobstructed view of the Apple Store (drool) or of the dudes sneaking into Victoria’s Secret.
When we arrived, the farmers-market stalls were bustling only yards away. Sadly, Monsieur Marcel felt removed from the action, and the nearby buzz felt more like a hum. Also disappointing: The blackboard specials seemed to ignore the nearby market’s bounty. So, when in doubt, go for the burger, right? Well, it was hard to tell what was particularly French about the French burger other than the brioche bun, which topped a juicy patty, sautéed onions and mushrooms. I asked a waiter about the mushrooms; he replied, “They’re wild. You can get them at the supermarket…in a blue package.” Why not get farm-fresh mushrooms, if they're right down the way? At $13.99, I was hoping for a bit more food snobbery.
Swiss and mornay sauce oozed out of the croque monsieur, drowning the grilled ham beneath. We would have devoured the sandwich without reproach if we hadn’t already indulged in a large dish of coquillettes au fromage, a delicious but greasy belly-bomb of macaroni and melted Gruyère. The meal was a “cheese explosion,” as my dining companion summarized. Boy, did I feel the fallout as we waddled out into the hurly-burly of the Promenade to check out what we missed at the farmers market.
Food: Casual French fare with daily chalkboard specials, such as moules frites and seared frog legs.
Scene: Depending on the time of day and day of the week, a steady stream of stroller-pushers, compulsive shoppers and yoga enthusiasts—or people who just dress like they are.
Insider tip: The bistro impressively offers 46 different wines by the glass, five of which bear M. Marcel’s name. From 3 p.m.-6 p.m. on weekdays, glasses of wine are half price.
Seasonal insider tip: In inclement weather, Monsieur Marcel closes up early.
