(Credit: Rachel Coleman)
Unlike Cha Cha Cha (the original in Silverlake is still open), Pinches isn’t at all upscale: You order at the counter and wait for your food at one of the rickety tables out front. But just because it isn’t fancy doesn’t mean it ain’t got style. Those same tables are covered with adorable laminated tablecloths in poppy patterns. And the owners had the good sense to install plenty of heat lamps in the patio. It's too bad heat doesn’t cancel out noise, as cars rushing and honking their way down Sunset create quite a conversation-killing cacophony (but, um, don’t get in the way of amusing alliteration).
For Angelenos used to the delights of their favorite taco truck—where flavorful, perfectly spiced concoctions can be had for less than $2—Pinches may be a bit vexing: It essentially serves the same food at a much higher markup. But as my totally unscientific survey has found, West Hollywood is not blessed with taco trucks the way other neighborhoods are—so the wee taqueria may have carved itself a wee niche. Plus, it stays open until 3 a.m. on weekends and actively encourages the post-club crowd to bring their drunken selves over for a little carbo-loading.
The best elements of Pinches’ menu are the snackier parts, which is a good fit for the intended audience. The horchata is deliciously packed with cinnamon, the chips are some of the best I’ve had in L.A., and the potato-and-cheese flauta is deep-fried comfort-food perfection.
But food snobs, beware. Nothing on the menu is particularly innovative or groundbreaking, which—given what the owners offer at Cha Cha Cha—might come as a surprise to those expecting technical expertise. The nopal taco made with chopped cactus is an interesting vegetarian offering, and the carnitas were in fine form the day I visited. The mole is touted as a house specialty, yet it’s (unexpectedly) slathered in so much salsa that it’s hard to tell exactly what it tastes like. And while the ingredients make the burritos practically Mission-style, the flavors don’t nearly justify the price.
Mostly, Pinches is an awesome resource for hungry drunkies, or hungry soon-to-be-drunkies—the liquor store across the street will run over with your booze order. On my visit, the chicks who ended up next to us supplemented their tacos with multiple bottles of white wine. To each her own.
Food: Standard Mexican favorites with a comfort-food spin.
Scene: The specifics depend on what time you’re there, but it’s on the Strip. What more explanation do you need?
Insider tip: No alcohol, but the liquor store across the street is very accommodating.
Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
