R+D Kitchen is an anomaly along Santa Monica’s Montana Avenue—and not just because "sexy” and “chain restaurant” don’t usually go together (unless you’re into that sort of thing). A sizable space with a full bar, the new restaurant brings the ineffable combination of hard liquor and enormous desserts rarely seen along the stretch of trendy boutiques, baby stores and beauty salons.
R+D is a product of the Hillstone Restaurant Group (which also operates Houston’s and Gulfstream) and has additional locations in Newport Beach and Dallas, so there’s no reason not to appreciate it for what it is: a sexed-up restaurant chainlet. So it's no surprise, then, that R+D makes concerted efforts at creating atmosphere. The lighting is kept almost too low—on our visit a stalled utility truck’s flashing lights add a strobe effect to the whole room—and the music is loud. In addition, the bar is positioned right at the front door, making it nearly impossible to pass up a pre-dinner cocktail.
In fact, the bar crowd largely skips dinner altogether. The staff members are pros at mixed drinks (less so with wine), and the scene is in full swing from open to close. The drinks are also expensive enough to preclude dinner for those watching their pennies: $27 for two cocktails makes the booze as expensive as some entrees.
Things fade a bit as we head to the dining area. The lights are still low, the music still loud, but now we’re sipping a vodka gimlet while squashed between a bickering older couple and a table full of tween boys wolfing down cheeseburgers. At this point, R+D’s one remaining nod to trend is the open kitchen—though it’s not quite on point. Nothing is particularly flashy in there, and the dishwashing station is front and almost center.
Well, at least we know the guys cleaning the plates seem perfectly pleasant. As do the servers, who approach with huge, face-cracking smiles and a chipper, “Hi, I’m [insert name here], and I’ll be your server tonight!” It sounds like something out of the Applebee’s playbook.
With 15 entrees, eight sides and three desserts, the menu is smallish. Nothing is too pricey, especially given the all-American portions. The enormous serving of wild mushroom meatloaf is good, tinged slightly with a sweet Asian-inspired sauce. The accompanying mashed potatoes are enjoyable as well, fluffy and full of delicious butter and cream. (We rarely like restaurant mashers, but we can see why they show up on a good percentage of plates here.)
The Newporter salad is listed as “roasted chicken, greens, apples, bacon and cashews.” Don’t forget the walnuts, almonds, hard cheese and luscious (again, slightly sweet) dressing. It’s a lot on one plate, but everything works well enough; while not particularly innovative, it hits the spot.
The sides, in contrast, are tiny and have a fun picnicky theme going. The deviled eggs contain celery (a bit unorthodox), and the flavors are summery, fresh, and reminiscent of family reunions. One might even consider ordering an extra side in lieu of dessert. Since sweetness seems to rule the menu, it’s a surprise the desserts are unremarkable. The carrot cake is fine, but comes with dull frosting that lacks any taste of cream cheese. The best part of the cheesecake is the bright, tart raspberry sauce, certainly not the cake itself. What do these people have against cream cheese?
Oh well, there’s no harm in skipping dessert. Come to think of it, a cocktail each and a split entree will likely tide anyone over till lunch the next day.
Food: Comfort all the way. Nothing too unusual, nothing transcendent, all nice enough.
Scene: All over the place, from 12-year-olds to senior citizens, from big drinkers to enormous eaters.
Insider tip: You’ll have to pay for your pre-dinner drinks before eating; the tab doesn’t carry over.
Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor at Metromix Los Angeles.
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