(Credit: Victor Rodionoff)
However, we were determined to find the nouveau steakhouse/pub, and find it we did. Riordan’s is located right next to the Pantry Café (it’s actually difficult to tell that it’s a separate establishment) and it’s brightly-lit enough to feel welcoming and cheery, even into the night. Possessed of old-timey, brand-new pressed tin ceilings and exposed brick walls, Riordan’s just needs 50 years and some dimmer light bulbs to feel authentic.
The front door is positioned so that guests enter right into the welcoming arms of the bar, which more likely than not will entertain a group of sports-watching dudes. Surprisingly, there are only six beers on tap (and one of them is Miller Light), but the bartender makes up for it with his mad-mixing skills. He served up the second-best Tom Collins in L.A. (the best is at Seven Grand, in case you're interested), which came with a tray of crudite and some fantastic pretzel bread.
Seriously, that pretzel bread is amazing, served warm and just salty enough on the outside. Unfortunately, we’re pretty sure they didn’t mean for it to be the most memorable food item available. Granted, the onion rings were pretty tasty, but the menu isn’t breaking any new ground. The twice-baked potato came cloaked in Cheddar and served with little dishes of chives, sour cream and bacon, so naturally it’s crave-worthy without much effort. The crab cakes, on the other hand, were so bland and watery that we had to wonder if they were once frozen.
The restaurant makes a good effort with “the carvery,” the section devoted to freshly carved meat put into enormous sandwiches. It was flavorful and messy, as a sandwich should be, though there was barely room for extra napkins on the tiny two-top we sat at. Between the crudite tray, bread basket, drinks, and sides served on their own separate dishes, the table began to resemble a carb-overloaded cornucopia.
The restaurant has only been open for a couple of weeks, so as our unbearably cute server explained, they’re still “working out the bugs…I mean, there’s no bugs here! I meant working out…sigh.”
The first bug that needs working out is just getting people in the place; there was only one other group actually eating when we arrived. The restaurant did fill up a bit around 9:30, and we suspect it’ll be a good pre- or post-Staples hangout. The crowd was a 50/50 mix of corporate types and younger guys in jeans and sneakers. Plus the aforementioned adorable server and his comrades in cuteness. The food wasn’t that great, but the eye candy made up for it.
Food: The steakhouse fare is light—on flavor and on inspiration. The pretzel bread, however, was more than gratifying.
Scene: So far, not much besides folks looking to loosen their ties or get their Staples-happy drink on. But we foresee great 'meet'-market potential.
Insider Tip: The bartender seems to appreciate a challenge. Pick an unusual cocktail and see what he comes up with.
Katherine Spiers is contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
