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So, it was with some contemplation that I set an early lunch appointment at the rooftop restaurant. In the harsh light of morning, would Takami’s designer duds turn shabby? As the elevator opened to the penthouse floor, the answer was irrefutable: the meticulous accents of red-toned wood, rich pairing of leather and kimono fabrics, steel and glass were nothing short of spectacular.
‘Inside or outside, ladies?’ No contest: the breezy, oversized balcony was the obvious choice. Even on a (cough, cough) hazy summer day, the air felt crisp and the strategic overhang warded off the searing sun—wow, the downtown skyline can look pretty.
The menu reflects the three distinct kitchens: nigiri and sashimi come from the sushi bar, yaki fare off the robata and the house kitchen services executive chef Kenny Yamada’s flights of fusion fancy. Best known for his part in opening Katsu-ya's Encino offshoot, chef Kenny-san has a gift for theatrics (he’s worked on and off as an actor for the past 25 years), and it manifests most in high-flying dishes like the sweet scallop present, an egg “crepe” that is bundled and cinched with a ribbon of dried Japanese zucchini and a carrot ring. The huge purse unravels to reveal nuggets of tempura-battered scallops. It’s a fancy production for a mundane payoff—and the overall effect played too monotonously sweet for my taste—but that doesn’t mean this sucker for anything deep-fried won’t be ordering the spicy rock shrimp version next time.
The signature Takami roll of spicy tuna, crab and asparagus with exterior pieces of albacore is staged with similar flourish, crowned with a tawny fried nest of carrot. It was tasty enough, but the true revelation came in another elaboration of spicy tuna, this time topped with lemon sliced to paper-thin translucence. You pop the entire thing, rind and all, into your mouth—an instantaneous palette cleanser.
Unlike the fantastical approach of the other kitchens, the robata menu is classic and carefully edited—you won’t find bacon-wrapped this or bacon-wrapped that here. The most unusual item was thin sliced filet mignon wound around foie gras. The skewer is skillfully maneuvered on the searing hot, 1300-degree grill, then taken off just as the fatty center begins to melt into the beef. It’s expectedly the priciest robata item at $15 for one skewer, but the decadence (on your wallet and waistline) is worth it, especially paired with perfectly-charred shishito peppers.
Takami has taken off with such a start, accommodating walk-ins is already a daily concern for Emil Eyvazoff, who's a deliberate owner and downtown resident. Mid-day, the place was packed with nearby bankers and lawyers; later, the lounge area, overlooking the cartoonish red pods of the Standard’s Rooftop Bar, was abuzz for happy hour. And it's regularly booked to capacity on weekend nights with younger-skewing patrons looking to bypass Elevate's "velvet rope" with a dinner reservation. We'd say "there goes the neighborhood," but Takami is about to make the neighborhood.
Food: Avant-garde Japanese with sushi and robatayaki. Small, family-style plates at big prices allow for grazing—and a swift ratcheting up of the bill.
Scene: Straight-laced business by day, loosened-up suits by happy hour, upwardly-mobile scenesters by night. See Elevate.
Parking 101: For lunch, park at 616 Figueroa Ave. The restaurant validates for an hour—which is generous by downtown standards. Valet at $7 is available in the evening in the alley just west of the building entrance.
Seating arrangement: If the day is clear, how could anyone resist the outdoors? The staff is well aware of the sun’s hot spots and will seat accordingly for maximum climate control.
Insider tip: Let them know if you work or live in downtown (please, no lying): neighbors to Takami get priority treatment.
Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
