Home > Los Angeles Restaurants > Restaurant Review > First impressions: Tracht's

Suzanne Tracht’s Jar restaurant in West Hollywood may be a town favorite, but the buzz over her chophouse fare has yet to reach those in the 562 area code. That was clear when we were seated in a pretty empty restaurant on Sunday evening. Granted, Tracht’s had been open for just a over a week and it was a 6:15 reservation. Still, shouldn’t there have been a line of people stretching through the hotel lobby—it’s located in the Renaissance Long Beach—eager to partake in the chef’s signature pot roast or the Char Sui pork chop? Guess not, more for us.

The dinner menu at Tracht’s is practically identical to Jar’s, from the broilers and roasts to the braises and sautés, with just a handful of items missing (sorry oxtail fans) and sans Mozzarella Mondays. Though Tracht’s does offer two things its sister, notably swankier, restaurant doesn’t have: a burger and onion rings. It’s in a hotel after all.

We started with the crab-devilled eggs, a delightful dish to open with on Tracht’s wicker-populated outdoor patio overlooking Ocean Boulevard. While the restaurant’s interior of modern light fixtures, dark wood and wall-to-wall glass is more aesthetic than the patio’s generic furnishings, experiencing dusk with that ocean breeze over a glass of Sebastian Cabernet and braised lamb shank—it melts in your mouth—was a Sunday best. And I won’t soon forget the sides of creamed spinach, perfectly buttered mash potatoes, roasted asparagus and those too-good-for words garlic fries that rounded out our feast.

And as the temperature started to drop, the ground outside heated up, literally. No standing eyesores at this restaurant. On Tracht’s patio, the floor is heated to 75 degrees, which means hello to open-toe shoes all year round. For extra warmth, the patio also features a large fire pit surrounded by cushioned seating. 

So L.A. Jar fans, take the 710 for the same amount of time it would take to find parking on Beverly. Plus, rejoice in two-hour complimentary valet parking at Tracht’s and a cheaper bill—in the LBC, the same beloved dishes are $1 to $3 cheaper.

Food: What made Tracht’s first venture such a hit—meat that makes your mouth water and an array of delectable sides served a la carte.

Scene: Laid-back coastal dining where customers come as they are—closed-toe shoes appeared to be optional for both sexes.

Inside Tip: If it’s not on the menu doesn’t mean it can’t be yours—and I’m not just talking specials. Order off the menu. Butterscotch pudding, anyone?

Could Do Without: Say no to piped-in smooth jazz and unsightly no smoking signs.

VIP Treatment: Hand your server your valet ticket when you receive the bill and your car will be ready by the time you exit.

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