Seeing as Viet Noodle is owned by the guy behind Silverlake’s Soy Café and Pho Café, it’s no surprise the new restaurant is like a flame to so many scarf-wearing moths. The new space even looks nearly identical to Pho Café: bare white walls, brick façade, no sign. But at Viet Noodle, the pretense of small, separate tables has been done away with—they’ve been replaced with two extremely long tables. One of those tables faces a shelf of books, which is ideal for solo diners—and a cool idea, I think—but might be awkward on busy nights when patrons are forced to sit side by side with their dining companions.
And good conversation will probably be key here, as the menu doesn’t take long to peruse—with no long discussions of what one might order to fill awkward silences, you're on your own. There’s only a handful of items from which to choose. The food here is more Northern Vietnamese in style, which the average Californian restaurant-goer will find different than what they’re used to. Hanoi-style pho is a simpler, more straightforward dish than its Saigon counterpart, and it’s served without the herbs and accoutrements Angelenos may expect. Still, the chicken version here is quite good in its own way. Viet Noodle’s rendition of bun isn’t quite as successful, as that same lack of extra seasonings leaves the dry noodle dish…well, dry.
If you’re not in the mood for noodles, try the banh nan (“Vietnamese tamales,” as they’re described here), a dish I’ve not seen often in L.A. Made with a gelatin of rice flour and dried shrimp wrapped in a banana leaf and served with a spicy-sweet fish-based sauce on the side, it’s worth a try for those already familiar with the Vietnamese restaurant basics and ready to try something new. And everyone—newbie and old hand alike—has got to try a flavored soy milk. They’re a specialty of the house and, while a bit overpriced, are a homemade delight that tastes far better than anything out of a carton. In fact, why not treat Viet Noodle like a bar? Go for the unusual drinks and the hottie-watching. Your taste buds and your eyes will be equally happy.
Food: A small range of Vietnamese classics, just not Vietnamese-restaurant-in-America classics. Kuh-peesh?
Scene: As young and cool as you could possibly imagine.
Insider tip: It's cash only.
Katherine Spiers is contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
