Home > Los Angeles Restaurants > Restaurant Review > First impressions: Yamato

They must be the heaviest doors in the city. At least, that's what the massive threshold to Yamato feels like against the frigid, thrashing wind. One good, hard yank, and I manage to wriggle through (OK, that was so not meant to sound dirty) to find a stately expanse before me.

The room in its height, breadth and baroque curves is seriously impressive. Yeah, it's Eurochow redux, muted down and minus the crazy bridge. But having found the stark whiteness of the former space to be the essence of unapologetic diva-like trendiness—you know, as if J. Lo were commissioned to choose the paint chip—I appreciate the subtle changes. Upholstered chairs and booths definitely look more inviting; the de rigueur sake display—in this case, a floating collection right smack in the center—is actually eye-catching; and sans bridge, one gets an unobstructed view of the multiple dining levels.

I request mezzanine seating, because on a cold winter night without the UCLA crowd, I can. From my perch, I observe the nooks and crannies in which people can choose to dine: the sushi bar, stylish booths in the front room, a four-top along the stairs, what look to be banquettes under the second-level landing. The diversity affords, I would imagine, a sliding scale of intimacy with your companion(s)—and an equivalent difference in the attention that you would get from the waitstaff. My server on this particular night always seems to be at my shoulder, asking if everything is OK, refilling our teapot, shuttling extra wasabi; others, I hear, are not so attentive. In other words, choose your seat wisely.

But how's the food? Well, it is what you would expect it to be from a mini restaurant chain (there are other Yamatos in Encino, Agoura Hills and Stevenson Ranch) with high-minded dining intentions. The sushi menu is respectable, with the usual selection of nigiri, sashimi and Westernized rolls. The rest of the menu is a mishmash of Japanese classics, izakaya-style plates with fusion twists, and larger entrees of Angus beef or salmon or chicken. It's best to go small, not only for sampling purposes—a salad consisting of a block of Meiji tofu with chunks of Mt. Tam cheese from Bay Area darling Cowgirl Creamery was unexpectedly successful—but also to avoid overcommitment. Anything with miso tends to be heavy-handed, so while the broiled eggplant or cod is really flavorful at first bite, both can get overbearing real fast.

But the prices are moderate, even cheap considering the grandeur of the setting. It's clear that management is aware of its demographic right in the middle of Westwood Village, which puts Yamato in good graces. The fancy space should fill up soon enough with coeds (especially the ones without cars or parental bank accounts), most likely on their third date or so—at least, after the first one at Red Mango and the second at LaMonica's.

Food: Moderately-priced Japanese, ranging from sushi and udon to fusion small plates and entrees.

Scene: U! (clap-clap-clap) C! (clap-clap-clap) L! (clap-clap-clap) A! (clap-clap-clap)

Insider tip: Got a particular craving that isn't on the sushi menu? Ask and see if the chef can whip up a rendition for you.

Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles.

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