Home > Los Angeles Restaurants > Restaurant Review > 'It': hammy sammy

When it comes to sumptuous sammys, ham and cheese is the least sexy combination that could possibly come to mind. And in a city teaming with speck, prosciutto and jamón Serrano, a big rump of Honeybaked is about as appealing as plumber's crack.

But take this lowliest of sandwiches, batter it up, and throw that bad boy into a vat of oil? Well, now we're talking. The name may sound all dashing and Continental, but the Monte Cristo is a California baby through and through. While details may vary, historical accounts pretty much agree that this culinary wonder was created somewhere in the Southland as a bastard version of the croque monsieur. And really, what’s more Americanizing—and “it”-worthy—than giving something the deep-fried treatment?

We’ve seen other places try to pass off their Montes as little more than French-toast sandwiches, finished off on a griddle. No, no. A beautiful, deep-crusted fry is key, and Brent’s Deli has pretty much mastered it. Premium cuts of ham, turkey and Swiss cheese—it is a deli, after all—are arranged between spongy egg bread, then cut in quarters before each gets dunked into a crepe-like batter and fried, maximizing the ratio of crunchy crust to everything else. A dusting of powdered sugar, a side of strawberry preserves (you can also request maple syrup), and a dainty, soon-to-be-oil-soaked doily pretty things up a bit—before the deed and the damage to your rump is done.

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