Sampling: Pure Luck

Jackfruit as super carnitas (Credit: Aimee Brodeur)

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Vegans have a reputation for asceticism, but things could change if Pure Luck, a vegan restaurant and beer bar that's helped make HelMel uber-hip, has a say in the matter. The beers are interesting and unusual, and the same could be said of the food. There's plenty of tofu as meat proxy, but tempeh, seitan and other depressing substitutes are blessedly absent from the menu. In their faux place is something far more inventive.

Let’s give a warm welcome to jackfruit, a creamy yet pineapple-like delicacy that’s relatively unknown in the U.S., probably because it doesn’t thrive in our climates. In its indigenous Southeast Asia, the large, round and, yes, sometimes stinky fruit is a staple of the vegetarian diet. It’s used to, er, beef up curries, and it’s had a stellar career pretending to be pork. It's our pleasure to make its acquaintance stateside, as we find this uncommon fruit elevates vegan fare from mealy to delicious.

Todd’s Barbecue Sandwich: Only a jackfruit expert could tell what the “pulled pork” truly is just by looking at it. No matter. This sandwich will do right by anybody looking for some ‘cue. (Well, as long as it’s sweet sauce and not the vinegary stuff they’re after.) Nicer bread would elevate this sammie above “solid” status; right now the supermarket white bun is holding it back.

Jack’s Super Burrito Wrap: Straight-up delicious comfort food. The jackfruit is shredded and sauced into “carnitas” and combined with sweet potato fries, pinto beans, cilantro and barbecue sauce in a flour tortilla. Anyone who thinks veganism is always healthy is seriously misguided. And who could argue with fries stuffed inside a burrito?! Consider yourself full for the rest of the day after this one.

Fried dill pickles: This love song to pickles packs a tasty breaded coating with an briny, juicy middle. The effect is similar to grilled eggplant in flavor and texture, just a bit more tart and with a bit more bite. The house barbecue sauce is the accompaniment; it’s a sweet concoction that’s vegan, yet still manages to taste just like McDonald’s.

Sweet potato fries: These starchy snacks have been cropping up all over the city. Pure Luck’s vegan cred is proven in this simple version that draws out flavor from the purity of the tuber rather than relying on overpowering seasonings. Of course, there’s an addictive sweet dipping sauce—mayo-based and, once again, vegan.

Beer, glorious beer: Pure Luck's beer list isn't the longest in town, but it might well be the most interesting. It’s as big a draw as the food, and some connoisseurs have compared the selection to those found in Portland, Ore. (home of the beer snobs). Here the seasonal Mariage Parfait comes with a chaser of pomegranate juice. The sole cider option is black currant—no boring apple here.

Got room for more?: Pure Luck doesn’t offer much in the way of dessert, but that's for the best. Scoops, with its amazing display of artisanal ice cream, is just across the street. While our omnivorous selves can't deny the foie gras-enriched variety whenever it's available, the daily bounty of flavors always includes animal-free goodies as well.

Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.

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