Already, Jennifer Aniston, Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher have partied here. On this inaugural Saturday night, a line of Range Rovers and Mercedes ferries a well-heeled crowd to the door of the former Barfly space. Inside, the dining room sparkles. There’s a famous face or two: Benjamin McKenzie, who played opposite hottie to Mischa Barton on “The O.C.,” is sharing plates with some guy pals.
Our party of five is seated immediately. Despite opening weekend, our primetime reservations were surprisingly easy to get. But we don’t get the best table. That would be the cozy banquettes set against a shimmering wall of candles toward the back or the chocolate-colored chaises inside the center lounge area where Ben and his buddies are sitting.
All Spanish and North African design elements with a touch of Asian flair, the one-room restaurant and lounge (hence the name) feels intimate. Much of the energy comes from the illuminated bar, which is canopied by tree branches hung with votive candles and fresh orchids. Partners Celeste Fierro and Erica Cohen seem to have successfully transplanted their hot New York original One.
We order a round of the “muddled” cocktails. Oh my gosh—they’re delicious! We could slurp on these all night without eating a bite. The summer berry mojito may be the best variation on that overdone drink I’ve ever tasted. A “gin-n-juice” with cucumber and dill tastes like summer on the tongue.
Our black-clad waitress is all giggles as she makes recommendations. The tapas plates are small, but they come with big prices ($11-$22 each). Still, lettuce cups arrive artfully plated with piles of caramelized osso bucco, roasted sweet corn and pickled cucumber; they’re fantastic. An exquisite tuna carpaccio is perfectly balanced by bits of pink grapefruit and avocado vinaigrette. An oh-so-satisfying mac ‘n’ cheese goes gourmet with crispy proscuitto, fresh peas and blistered vine tomatoes.
It’s not all good. The hearts of romaine salad is a mushy mess of lettuce, avocado and papaya. But for initially omitting the papaya, the restaurants sends us a round of excellent Champagne—nice! Chef Christopher Ennis, who has cooked at Vibrato Grill Jazz, Asia de Cuba and Astra West, is a very capable chef, so we’re thinking these are opening week jitters. Besides, the food is only part of the scene. You’ve got that glowing bar beckoning with its amber light, which is where we ended our evening, sharing yet another bottle of Champagne.
Food: New American tapas with an emphasis on seasonal ingredients and Pacific seafood.
Scene: Sexy, casual-glam and hip
Insider Tips: For the best table, go with Benjamin McKenzie!
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