But the Culver City offshoot has created an offshoot of its own—and it’s real purty. Ugo Italian Bar sits at a jaunty angle on a corner where a former bakery outlet used to be. The glowing sign continues the same lowercase affectation of the first: “ugo: an italian bar.” Taking a page from the caffè bars of Italy, the new Ugo is essentially a glammed-up coffeehouse. (I’m imagining there’s a fair measure of confusion between Ugo Café, the full-service Italian restaurant, and Ugo Bar, the caffè that serves the actual coffee.) But as the ownership is apt to describe in the menu, an Italian bar is much more, it’s “a meeting place…an essential, dynamic part of life.” Indeed. Plus, Ugo Bar serves booze.
The interior is seriously soigné—excuse the French. The open room is dominated by the main bar, which houses the espresso machine, the requisite cases of prepared foods and pastries, the liquor and the gelato counter. There seems to be a lot of open space, but not enough for more than a smattering of two, maybe three, tables. The rest of the seating is outside. Scenic black-and-white photos of Italy decorate the walls, but they serve only as a muted backdrop for the real star: a huge, full-color poster of Team Italia winning the 2006 World Cup. A plasma TV hangs in an upper corner, playing “The Simpsons.” Ah—I know where to come watch Italy kick Korea’s proverbial ass in 2010.
We’re invited outside for table service. It takes a while to scan the lengthy menu: Italian sodas, cocktails, coffee drinks, coffee drinks with liquor, coffee drinks with gelato. It’s unending. There’s also actual food. The usual crew of soups, salads, panini and what is listed as “tapas—Italian style.” Geez, what’s Italian for tapas? My knee-jerk cynicism aside, the small dishes do look tasty and our attentive server explains that although the two Ugos share the same kitchen, the food is meant to be totally “separate.” The one common item, polpette, is even different: The meatball is made of beef at the Café, pork at the Bar.
I regret eating a full dinner beforehand but request the arancini anyway. Three smallish balls come in an order with a meaty Bolognese. It’s good—possibly on par with Pizzeria Mozza, even—but the “small plate” is rather small for a $6 charge. That’s two bucks a pop. At Mozza, you get something like six for $8.
That seems to be the general experience as we sample the rest of the menu—a chi-chi coffee drink for $5.95 is served in a demitazza, plus $2 extra for the shot of grappa. A frozen limoncello is fantastic...for $12, and a small serving of gelato is $4.25. Such price points are hardly unusual, especially in a town like L.A., but they’re unexpected in a place that wants to be the local hangout in a neighborhood that is Culver City.
Ultimately, I can’t fault Ugo Bar, and I will go back. It’s just too inviting a place. And with its extended hours—up to 11 p.m. on weekdays; 1 a.m. on weekends—the patio overlooking the downtown boulevard is a great place to hangout al fresco, even during the winter. I’ll just have to remember to bring extra cash.
Food and drink: Coffee, cocktails, gelato and the usual café assortment of prepared salads, panini and desserts; breakfast pastries available in the morning.
Scene: Locals, post-moviegoers, post-theatergoers and, come the World Cup, soccer fans.
Insider tip: Go hungry: The hot menu of “Italian-style” tapas is unexpectedly worthwhile.
Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
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