Navigating: brinner
Nighttime is the right time for breakfast
By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix, and Katherine Spiers, Special to Metromix
June 18, 2008
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Bob's Big Boy
4211 Riverside Dr. - Burbank818-843-9334
What SoCal childhood would be complete without memories of Bobby’s gigantic pompadour? While many locations have disappeared over the years, the oldest Bob’s Big Boy in the country stays open all day and all night, even as it enters its 60th year. Fridays host a classic-car rally, and carhop service is offered on weekends, which means that you can eat a brinner of steak and eggs in your ’67 Mustang—then follow it up with a milkshake and a slice of pie. What could be more retro than that?
The Corner (formerly Doughboys)
1156 N. Highland Ave. - Hollywood323-463-2220
The original breakfast-ery on 3rd Street was so popular, even the most jaded patrons were willing to patiently endure the hour-minimum wait. Amid unsavory rumors, Doughboys decamped to Hollywood, taking along its encyclopedic menu of scrambles, taters, grains and griddle cakes. If you like going indulgently sweet for breakfast foods, you’ll find something here. Hey, if you can have French toast pie, we’re having the red velvet cake.
Frank's Coffee Shop
916 W. Olive Ave. - Burbank818-845-2216
Cross the threshold and you've just about broken the time/space barrier. There's no scene to speak of, and while the food is anything but fancy, it's the all-day breakfast that keeps the regulars coming back for more. The of-a-certain-age waitresses will call you “hon” as they kindly bring over huge plates of eggs and hash browns. Be forewarned that this is not a place given to healthfulness—but you can find fresh strawberries on the waffles, if you insist on eating produce.
Fred 62
1850 N. Vermont Ave. - Los Feliz323-667-0062
Who hasn’t been to this Eastside institution in the wee hours? The cooler-than-thou diner serves its breakfast (but not brunch!) items anytime it’s open—which is 24/7, 365 days of the year. Alice’s Egg Sandwich with goat cheese, avocado, tomato and hash browns is particularly good. It’s fun to pair any brinner with one of the best root beer floats in town. It’s even naughtier to get beer. Why not? The drunk celeb in the room is doing it!
The French Crepe Co.
6333 W. 3rd St. - Los Angeles323-934-3113
This Franco-festive booth in the middle of the Farmers Market may not be the most authentic, but that hasn’t stopped the crowds from flocking. With names like La Marie Antoinette and La Napoleon, dishes sound twee but portions are hefty, so sharing—or an extra lap around the Market—is a very good idea. Or, just get an egg-and-cheese crepe followed by a banana-Nutella one. That’s exercise of sort.
Hungry Fox
13359 Sherman Way. - North Hollywood818-765-7111
This is a pretty standard greasy spoon in all ways but one: The jams and spreads are homemade. For that reason, patrons—both new and regular—are encouraged to indulge in baked goods, the better to consume a whole jar of strawberry preserves. Even better is the pumpkin butter, a seasonal treat that in-the-know breakfast geeks go out of their way to seek out—and yes, it's served all day. Toast never seemed so appealing.
Jinky's Cafe
14120 Ventura Blvd. - Sherman Oaks818-918-2250
Wonder where the name came from? Jinkies! Maybe all the animation cells on the walls are a clue. The menu has a fair share of lunch stuff like sandwiches and pastas, but it’s the compendium of eggs Benedict variations, pancakes and omelettes that drives Jinky’s fame. Breakfast is served all day, natch. If your brinner hankering involves something meaty and chunky, the kitchen offers 20-plus flavors of chili with a numbered scale of spiciness from one (“ahh”) to 10 (“ouch”). Good morning!
The Kettle
1138 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-8511
The Ken-and-Barbie set flood this beachside 24-hour spot at all hours of the day and night. The old-fashioned decor and straightforward menu may seem to be just a notch or two above Denny’s, but the noisy crowds don’t seem to care, especially when anything ethanol-soaking would do. But brinner here must include any of the delicious muffins (yes, muffins). The kitchen must fill them with pixie dust—they’re simply magic.
Kitchen 24
1608 N. Cahuenga Blvd. - Los Angeles323-465-2424
Yet another L.A. restaurant attempts the 24/7 business model. The good news here is that the prices aren't totally outrageous, which should draw the late-night, post-clubbing riffraff. Breakfast, lunch and dessert items are available all day (dinner and cocktails only at certain hours), so expect a lot of bacon, eggs and pancakes with cutesy names like Wakey Wakey Eggs and Bakey and the ecumenical Challah-lujah French Toast. There's a DJ at night too, in case you're not ready to stop the party.
The Original Pantry Cafe
877 S. Figueroa St. - Los Angeles213-972-9279
This is pretty much L.A.’s prototype for the classic city diner. It claims to have been open continuously since the 1920s, and we believe it. If you haven’t guessed, you go for the hearty, no-frills breakfast at any time of the day. The coffee is hot and constant. The sourdough toast comes in a pile so big, it could be called a loaf; the bacon—thick and crispy—comes in equally man-sized portions. “No frills” also means no credit cards; it’s cash only.
Pann's
6710 La Tijera Blvd. - Los Angeles323-776-3770
Walking into this old-school coffee shop is like stepping into Pleasantville, USA. That’s probably why it’s been featured in so many noirish movies. Traditional American entrees like Dreamburgers and mac ’n’ cheese come in healthy (read: huge) servings that go along with root beer floats and malts. But breakfast items like biscuits, grits (there’s a slight Southern bent here) and the famous waffles are even better.
Roscoe's House of Chicken N' Waffles
1518 N. Gower St. - Los Angeles323-466-7453
We have a proposition: Chicken and waffles should be L.A.’s official brinner meal. Think about it: The crispy, perfectly fried protein paired with arguably the city’s best waffles is a match made in breakfast/dinner-fused heaven. Slather maple syrup and Louisiana hot sauce with abandon—you get the picture. But if you’re feeling squeamish, more traditional eggs or grits are options, you sissy.
Swingers
8020 Beverly Blvd. - Los Angeles323-653-5858
Remember the ’90s? This diner certainly does. The bright orange space is part retro, part grunge, and the servers look like a cross between Courtney Love (circa 1994) and Kate Winslet in Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind. Campy images of ’60s and ’70s pop Americana highlight the menu of American comfort foods—that is indeed Mr. T poised next to the hefty burgers. Keep your celebrity radar up: There are always a few who think they can go unnoticed behind their giant shades.
Toast
8221 W. 3rd St. - Los Angeles323-655-5018
Who would have imagined that a place with a dry name like Toast would have a line down the block all day long? The interminable wait seems to have gotten even longer now that Doughboys was forced off the trendy street. Breakfast and lunch are the busiest times, but the dining room is open late enough to satisfy a breakfast-for-dinner craving. The inviting sidewalk patio is pet-friendly and equally friendly for celeb-sighting. Don’t mind the gaggle of paparazzi—they’re not waiting for a table.
The Waffle
6255 W. Sunset Blvd. - Los Angeles323-465-6901
This high-concept restaurant near the ArcLight is almost open 24 hours. (If you’re on the prowl in the darkness right before dawn, sorry, you’re out of luck.) But for the remaining 20-plus hours of the day, all sorts of comforting breakfast classics may be had. Waffles are the highlight of the menu, including such delectable-sounding varieties as Applewood bacon, cornmeal jalapeño, sticky bun and carrot cake. And there’s a full bar. Now that’s a combo.
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