Characterized by slow-simmered meats, bright veggies and lentils, and the irresistible injera (a spongy sourdough bread that doubles as a utensil), Ethiopian cuisine brings a distinct taste and sense of place to L.A.'s dining scene. Here's a roundup of East African eateries worth checking out.
Navigating: Ethiopian eateries
From asa tibbs to yebeg siga
By Marissa Tinloy
Special to MetromixMarch 9, 2009
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Rosalind's Ethiopian Cuisine
1044 S. Fairfax Ave. - Los Angeles323-936-2486
With its full bar, 2 a.m. closing time and extensive outdoor seating, Rosalind’s is one of the most festive places on the block. During the day, sunlight filters through skylights and big glass windows; on Friday and Saturday nights, live Ethiopian-style bands perform for a small cover charge. Though the food has been branded a bit bland by some, the atmosphere and collection of East African beers still warrant a whirl—and the shifenfen (lamb stew with spices) will probably taste pretty good when the late-night munchies hit.
Industry Cafe & Jazz
6039 Washington Blvd. - Culver City310-202-6633
It’s fitting that, in Culver City’s Art District, this friendly cafe offers live entertainment to complement the menu of Ethiopian and Southern specialties. Poets, musicians and comedians are known to frequent the sparse and trendy space, but call to check first. In keeping with the laid-back environment, the organizers seem to be equally relaxed about changing plans. As far as food goes, skip over the fried chicken and hamburgers and go for a combo platter, such as the tender, flavorful yebeg siga (lamb).
Awash Restaurant
5990 W. Pico Blvd. - Los Angeles323-939-3233
Don’t let the subdued exterior dissuade you—what’s cooking at this family-run eatery, found a gander just west of Fairfax’s Little Ethiopia, is the real deal in both taste and tone. The restaurant offers a lively, welcoming atmosphere where spicy fare and honey wine reign. If you’re looking for something new, try the kitfo (minced raw beef with spicy chili powder).
Little Ethiopia Restaurant
1048 S. Fairfax Ave. - Los Angeles323-930-2808
A staple in the neighborhood’s restaurant row. The restaurant’s claim to fame is serving one of, if not the only, Ethiopian breakfasts in town. Starting in the wee hours (7 a.m.), the homey place dishes up morning meals such as kinch (boiled cracked wheat with spiced herb butter), foll (fava beans with chili and onion in an injera crepe) and kita firfir (pan-fried wheat flakes). Lunch, dinner and on-site banquets are also available.
Meals by Genet
1053 S. Fairfax Ave. - Los Angeles323-938-9304
Dubbed gourmet Ethiopian, Meals by Genet offers delicious regional dishes paired with a few classic European counterparts. The service at the chic candlelit eatery is impeccable, and if you come with a group, the waiters will work with you to create individualized platters. Rumor has it chef Genet cooks all the meals herself. Her spicy doro wot, a rich red pepper and spiced butter sauce served with a hardboiled egg or chicken, is enough to make you understand what all the buzz is about.
Merkato
1036 1/2 S. Fairfax Ave. - Los Angeles323-935-1775
This combination market and restaurant is full of flavorful, authentic, affordable fare. Ethiopian artifacts, colorful decor, incense-filled air and the friendly (if occasionally slow) hosts make Merkato a cultural culinary experience. In the neighborhood where competition abounds, this restaurant is best known for its asa tibbs (a whole white trout fried Ethiopian-style) and veggie combo (six items for just $5.99!).
Messob Ethiopian Restaurant
1041 S. Fairfax Ave. - Los Angeles323-938-8827
Messob’s substantial, affordable combination meals, including the Super Messob Exclusive (with samples of almost the entire menu) and the Vegetarian Delight (complete with dessert), make it a standout. The casual, family-friendly environment proudly boasts the country’s colors and handicrafts, and the restaurant is set up to fit every mood and every group. There’s sidewalk dining, a covered bungalow by the window and traditional tables inside. The taste, texture and tenderness of the food have been lauded, and when you’re full and drowsy, you can enjoy a cup of strong Ethiopian coffee.
Nyala Ethiopian Cuisine
1076 S. Fairfax Ave. - Los Angeles323-936-5918
For palate-pleasing food in a simple yet casually refined atmosphere, this is the place. Comfortable booths line one wall of the restaurant, while linen-clad tables and an impressive display of Ethiopian crafts fill the rest of the space. All in all, the atmosphere is both welcoming and relaxed. As for the food, Nyala’s meats are tender and flavorful, and the vegetable combinations savory and distinctive. If spice isn’t your thing, speak up—the folks in the kitchen are happy to go mild, but if you don’t specify, you’ll definitely leave sweating. Nyala also offers a slew of African wines and beers and has a small bar toward the back. If you like pale lager, try sipping on the Harar.
