Sidewalk socializing at Antojito's Guerrero
(Credit: Paul Sun)
Navigating: Highland Park
Eating and drinking highs along York and Fig
By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix, and Heather Murphy, Special to Metromix
April 9, 2008Antigua Bread
6703 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park323-259-9345
Every nabe needs an independent coffee shop, and Highland Park’s happens to have Guatemalan flair. Since opening in fall 2007, Antigua has aimed to be more than the local spot for strong brews, free Wi-Fi and the inevitable stockpile of unfinished screenplays. The full-service kitchen knows its way around chorizo, overseeing an extensive menu of breakfast dishes, sandwiches and burgers, while the bakery churns out familiar croissants and baguettes. Head straight for the traditional South American sweet breads, such as gusanos and cachitos, which just beg for a coffee dunk.
Antojitos Guerrero
5623 York Blvd., Highland Park323-254-6118
On weekends, this little family restaurant is packed full of patrons eager for a taste of Central Mexico’s Guerrero state. They get it in the form of barbacoa (beef steamed until tender with chilies in maguey leaves) and birria, a spicy goat stew. For more personal attention, come during the week for pork stewed with cactus, ribs dripping with spices, or the green mole—all served, of course, with piping hot corn tortillas.
Chico's Mexican Restaurant
100 N. Avenue 50, Highland Park323-254-2445
How does a Mexican place stand out against the preponderance of excellent taquerias? Paint everything bright yellow and slap an animated chili pepper on the façade, that’s how. The motto “Respect Your Hood” greets diners from above the door frame too. But there’s substance to equal the style: The considerable menu boasts excellent fish and potato tacos, sopes, and tremendous platos of carnitas, carne asada and chile verde. Vegetarian options are equally flavorful. Be careful—many can’t help but load up on the amazingly fresh chips, salsa and guac.
Cinnamon Vegetarian Restaurant
5511 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park323-982-9480
While many of the neighborhood’s Mexican restaurants offer non-meat options, one can never be too sure. Cinnamon is Highland Park’s most prominent, if not only, fully dedicated vegetarian restaurant. Beyond the expected salads and juices, entrees (fittingly) skew Latin—minus the lard that makes refried beans so mouth-wateringly tasty. The menu also features a diverse selection of faux meat. Passable shrimp, carnitas and chorizo get mocked up in soy, while wheat protein composes something called “happy bread steak.”
El Arco Iris
5684 York Blvd., Highland Park323-254-3402
Long before any of the sleek gringo hangouts had popped up along York’s main drag, El Arco Iris was the place to take a date for enchiladas and intimacy-inducing margaritas. The popular restaurant has managed to keep up with the changing landscape of the boulevard, adding on a classy bar that serves up imaginative drinks such as the Mexican Russian—traditional cinnamon rice horchata juice infused with Kahlúa and vodka.
El Huarache Azteca
5225 York Blvd., Highland Park323-478-9572
In contrast to its new, chic York Boulevard neighbors, El Huarache may look a little worn-in, with ragged floral tablecloths and rickety chairs. But the cooking is a force to be reckoned with. The Huarache, so-called because it looks like a sandal, is a sort of pizza made of fried cornmeal dough, topped with steak, beans, cheese and shredded lettuce—and pigskin, if you're so inclined. Fresh watermelon juice offers a light, sweet complement to the belt-bursting meal.
Folliero Pizza & Italian Food
5566 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park323-254-0505
The thin crust at Folliero’s is so acclaimed, rumors have flown around that Tony Folliero—who opened the restaurant 40 years ago and still mixes the dough each morning—imports NYC tap water for the job. While the family denies such gossip, that hasn’t deterred the nightly admixture of cool kids and nuclear families, any of whom would defend Folliero’s supremacy over nearby heavyweight Casa Bianca. Photographs along the exposed brick walls serve as a visual timeline of Highland Park, including several that chronicle the reconstruction of local hero Chicken Boy. It’s cash only—no biggie, since dirt-cheap prices barely make a dent in the wallet.
Galco's Soda Pop Stop
5702 York Blvd., Highland Park323-255-7115
The name alone is indication that this stop could just as well be in Kansas (really, does anyone say "soda pop" round these parts?). Cult fans know the storied history of Galco's. It opened first as an Italian market in Downtown L.A. back in 1897, then settled in its current location as a deli in 1955. The deli's still there in the back and offers a competent menu of sandwiches and the like. But the true one-of-a-kind experience is in the shelves upon shelves, bottles upon bottles of obscure, trivia-worthy "pops"—so old-timey that most are made of honest-to-goodness sugar rather than high-fructose corn syrup. Even Coca-Cola comes in a bottle here. And no customized six-pack would be worthy without an esoteric beer or two.
Italiano's Fine Italian and Latin-American Cuisine
5103 York Blvd., Highland Park323-255-4743
Expecting to find Italian dishes at Italiano's? Well, that would be next door at the original Italiano's Pizza. This recently appointed room—with paintings of Venice, no less—is the sit-down dining extension. You can still bring your pie over and grab a table, but regulars know to sample the Ecuadorian offerings, such as sautéed beef with plantains or the goat slow-cooked in beer. And if you're up for a rich dose of Americana, there's the frothy chocolate-chip milk shake.
Italiano's Pizza
5101 York Blvd. , Highland Park323-255-6155
It's understandably difficult to shine in such close proximity to Folliero's and the phenomenon that is Casa Bianca. But Italiano's has been a mainstay in Highland Park—with two locations and a recently expanded dining room—for a reason. Along with the classic pizzeria offerings of pepperoni, mozzarella sticks and delivery, the menu also demonstrates gourmet leanings with specialty pizzas like the Marinero (seafood mix of shrimp, clams, squid and octopus) and the Caribbean (steak with onions, green peppers, cilantro and plantains). The Latin American side of the kitchen pumps out tostadas with a variety of fillings and numerous meat-based entrees.
Johnny's Bar
5006 York Blvd., Highland Park323-551-6959
In the middle of Highland Park’s burgeoning nightlife scene, Johnny’s Bar popped up in a space that at one time housed a watering hole with the same name, causing a good measure of confusion amongst old-school locals as well as Silverlakers who had recently lost their own Johnny’s along Sunset Boulevard. Having nothing to do with either predecessor, this young buck quickly developed its own following with cheap drinks, friendly bartenders, comfortable furnishings and a jukebox that makes everybody happy. Classic movies are projected on to the wall near the solo pool table—nice touch, Johnny.
La Casa Blue
5930 York Blvd., Highland Park323-257-0089
La Casa Blue wants to be all things to all people: cafe, bar, gallery, music venue, comedy joint. The electric-blue exterior and bright red interior are so poppy in color, you'd never suspect that a couple years earlier the space was a rumored crack house. People have grumbled about the food, but that’s hardly the point. The adorable patio is perfect for catching some rays, and the huge overstuffed couch is equally inviting when the weather isn’t. Even the naysayers can’t help but return for the nightly calendar of events.
La Estrella Tacos
6103 N. Figueroa St. , Highland Park323-982-0179
This blue-trimmed taco shack is humble indeed: The outdoor-only seating consists of three small rounds that look more like playground rides than tables with affixed stools. No matter, as this is food worth standing up for. The al pastor has been crowned one of the best in the city by avid taco-hounds, while others swear by the fish and shrimp varieties. We say there’s no need to choose. At these prices, you can get one of everything, even after blowing most of your cash at Little Cave. La Estrella is not only blessedly open 24 hours, it also runs a taco truck at York and 54th (with the luxury of seating and a permanent signboard), in case you’re stumbling along the other direction at 2 a.m.
Little Cave
5922 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park323-255-6871
It’d be goth if Little Cave didn’t have a sense of humor about itself. As it is, the room is kept dark and tons of bats are stenciled on red walls, giving the small space the Scooby-Doo treatment. From the same theme-loving owners as Los Feliz’s Bigfoot Lodge, this self-billed “best kept secret” is secret no longer, as kids without issues of claustrophobia swarm the bar every night. Bartenders are standout, entertaining the crowd with fire-breathing stunts, giving generous pours, and mixing cocktails like the Count Chocula, made with black vodka. But don’t let the cutesy names fool you—the drinks aren’t kiddie business.
Marty's
5137 York Blvd., Highland Park323-256-2400
Stark lighting, shiny shirts, skinny jeans, fancy sauces and valet parking—Marty’s has all the ingredients necessary to convince bloggers that it’s a sign of a new Silverlake. Although the pub is primarily inhabited by locals too lazy (or too concerned about DUIs) to venture west, the Kobe burger with garlic aioli is rumored to have drawn scenesters from as far away as Melrose. Consider saving the valet money for an extra Fat Tire. Highland Park is still Highland Park, after all, which means that generally the streets are empty.
Mr T's Bowl
5621 1/2 Figueroa St., Highland Park323-256-7561
Bands play right on top of the lanes, with mid-century bowling relics as their backdrop. This now-obsolete bowling alley is a good place to see new, undiscovered, and possibly underage acts before they head on to bigger pastures like the Echo or Spaceland (or Portland). It’s also a good place to catch Oxy students comparing indie cred and fake IDs. Be sure to bring cash, as there’s a notorious $20 minimum to open a tab. If you're lucky, you can grab some late-night deli food from the kitchen. If you’re not so lucky, you won’t have enough Febreze to air out Mr. T’s gamey bouquet from your clothes.
My Taco
6300 York Blvd., Highland Park323-256-2698
Most people’s first experience with My Taco, we imagine, goes something like this: They hear about the death-defying ginormity known as carne asada fries, but discover the limitlessly satisfying tacos de papas—deep-fried tacos stuffed with mashed potatoes, the perfect play between creamy, crunchy and spicy. The much-lauded barbacoa, made with lamb at My Taco, is also delicious, but it’s a more composed, sit-down affair. Just remember: Fries slathered with grilled beef, melted cheese and guacamole should only be a once-in-a-lifetime indiscretion.
Penny's Burgers
6300 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park323-254-7223
It’s OK to admit it: Even in the midst of some amazing Mexican food, sometimes you just crave a burger. Luckily, you won’t need Mac or Jack to settle your need. Located near the apex of York and Fig, Penny’s has a fantastic burger—“juicy” and “delicious” are the most common word associations we’ve heard. Fries are satisfying if you like ’em chunky, while the chili is great on its own or as a possible topping for everything. The kitchen also serves up a mean two-egg breakfast, as any neighborhood classic should.
Tacos El Michoacano
5933 York Blvd., Los Angeles323-258-0794
The only English words on the menu at El Michoacano are "Eat Here-Food to Go"—and those who take the advice of either are certain to leave satisfied. Tacos are $1 a pop, unless you go for the fish ones, and then they're $2. If you’re game—quite literally for that matter—sample the guilota of crispy, deep-fried quail. It's a happy place: The tables are covered in rainbows, and the fresh strawberry licuados are better than Jamba Juice for half the price.
The York
5018 York Blvd., Highland Park323-255-9675
Former Mixville bartenders Gabe Byer and Ryan Ballinger made a splash when they gave the boulevard both a bonafide gastropub and a namesake, setting off the inevitable buzz over gentrification. But even obstinate gadflies couldn’t resist the neighborhood-y setting where locals and interlopers alike share the spacious bar and gladly drop a 20 for the gastro-burger and a pint. In pub-worthy style, a chalkboard menu announces items such as fish and chips, a pulled-pork Cuban-style sandwich, and honey-lime wings.
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