Loft dwellers on Larchmont? There goes the neighborhood. The recent arrival of the Larchmont Lofts is but the latest in the perpetual battle for Larchmont Village’s soul, not to mention its dining landscape. The quaint, small-town-like strip of boutiques and sidewalk cafes between Beverly Boulevard and 1st Street has struggled to balance Main Street USA appeal with upscale urbanity. As retail rents are soaring, many mom-and-pop enterprises that gave the Village its charm are being pushed out. The past year or so has seen the departure of a beloved neighborhood Italian restaurant, a dive diner and a quirky coffee house, along with the encroachment of the edibly trendy (Pinkberry, Crumbs Bakeshop). Though it’s increasingly a magnet for chains and chainlets, we heart Larchmont for the distinctive eateries that endure.
Navigating: Larchmont Village
Quit the chainlet and go old-school
By Rachel Levin
Special to MetromixAugust 27, 2008
Avocado Grill
217 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesA sort of upscale Baja Fresh, Avocado Grill does quick-service Mexican with fresh, healthy ingredients. They grill everything—mahi-mahi for the fish tacos, chicken and steak for fajitas, veggies for the salads—except the namesake avocado. Breakfast burritos may be ho-hum, but the wet burrito stuffed with shredded chicken, cilantro rice, and all the fixings hits the spot. With choices like the herb grilled salmon plate and the garden quesadilla filled with spinach, grilled onions and garlic, you’ll escape that post-Mexican-food lard-in-your-pores feeling.
Cafe Du Village
139 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesSunny Provence-patterned tablecloths and warm marigold walls welcome diners to this unfussy country French eatery. The waiters are French but not rude, and they don’t turn their noses up at requests for substitutions. The food is pretty classic, but not bathed in butter and cream. Tuck into a late breakfast of les oeufs Benedict (served until 2 p.m. weekdays), a lunch combo of a jambon-fromage pressed sandwich and salad, or a pull-out-all-the-stops magret de carnard dinner.
House of Chan Dara
310 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesWith the tagline “Discover the fantasy,” the House of Chan Dara seems to trade in exotic waitresses. (Its rep? “Asian Hooters.”) But the competent Thai menu holds its own. Feast on specialties like mee krob, pad thai, whole catfish with sweet and sour sauce, and coconut rice. Lots of dishes are customizable, like the stir fries and fried noodles, but the smiles on those hot waitresses will turn to frowns if you request substitutions. Reserve ahead to eat al fresco.
Girasole
225 1/2 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesWhat’s Italian food without wine? This postage-stamp-size Venetian cucina doesn’t have a liquor license, but luckily Larchmont Village Wine, Spirits & Cheese is located right next door for your imbibing pleasure. You’ll want to pick up a bottle to enhance the sheer bliss of Girasole’s spinach gnocchi or seasonal pumpkin ravioli napped in butter and sage, or the divine veal scaloppini in Marsala, wine or lemon sauce. With a soaring ceiling and rotating displays of modern art, it’s a classy setting for a special meal with friends. (Literally—we recently spotted David Schwimmer there).
Kiku Sushi
246 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesA wall of Polaroids depicting regulars is a sign that this twee sushi spot has its share of devotees. They come for specialities like the Popcorn Lobster roll (a spicy tuna roll with deep-fried baby lobster on top) and the Heart Attack roll (spicy tuna, crab meat and cream cheese stuffed into a halved jalapeño and baked open face). Prices are a little steep, but the dinner combos are served with miso soup, tempura, salad and rice.
La Bottega Marino
203 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesThis is the eastern outpost of Sal Marino’s West L.A. trattoria and Italian deli. Fire up your Vespa: At almost all hours, seven days a week, the half-dozen sidewalk tables are filled with Roman Holiday-seekers downing Danesi espresso. Breakfast brings polenta pancakes and spinach-ricotta frittatas. Chopped salads and hot and cold paninis dominate at lunch, while dinner promises large portions of pollo Milanese and salmon fettucine a la vodka. For desert, don’t disappoint Grandma: have a slice of the torta della nonna (“Grandma’s cake”)—custard cream and chocolate topped with toasted pine nuts.
Larchmont Deli
5210 Beverly Blvd. - Los AngelesA couple doors off Larchmont on Beverly, the Larchmont Deli is miles away from fussy foodie trends. It does a mean pastrami on rye (certifiably massive), yet also manages to turn out a parade of delectable Greek specialties like spanakopita and taramosalata (the owners are Greek) as well as homestyle soups and salads. The decor is nothing to write home about—just a collection of spartan tables—but that’s part of what gives the sandwich shop its well-worn charm.
Larchmont Grill
5657 Melrose Ave. - Los AngelesSo technically, it’s not on Larchmont—it’s just west on Melrose—but it still puts us in a Larchmont state of mind. Housed in a converted Craftsman, the Grill is thriving in a spot that seemed previously jinxed (the old House space). That has a lot to do with the American menu focused on quality ingredients: think goat cheese- and grain-encrusted rack of lamb and pan-roasted trout drizzled with leek-and-lemon white wine sauce. But there’s also room for play. The mac ’n’ cheese is made with Velveeta (you know it!), and Wednesday is burger night.
Larchmont Village Wine Spirits & Cheese
223 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesLunch crowds clamor to this well-appointed wine shop for the midday Panini Cart menu, served 11 a.m.-5 p.m. (or until the bread runs out). The indisputably addictive sandwiches feature fresh charcuterie and cheeses from the shop’s deli case. The Italian prosciutto panini—on ciabatta or French baguette—with fresh mozzarella, arugula, olive oil and balsamic, draws raves. Call or fax your order in ahead of time to avert the long lines. Pick up imported specialty sodas, chocolates and other gourmet sundries before you go.
Le Petit Greek
127 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesOn Larchmont, this is the patio among patios. The stronghold of shaded sidewalk tables is perpetually buzzing with people-watchers and flaming cheese (that’s the saganaki). Order up a glass of ouzo and work your way through the mezethes: tarama (whipped caviar dip), tzatziki, hummus, dolmades and keftedes (minted Greek meatballs). At lunch, the gyros platter—lamb/beef, chicken or vegetarian with feta salad and lemon potatoes—is not to be missed. Dinner portions of braised lamb shanks and rich pastitsio aren’t so petit, and neither are the prices.
Prado
244 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesMismatched chairs and sun-drenched hues create a sort of colonial Caribbean setting for Prado’s upscale “cuisine of the Americas.” Sorry, you won’t find bikini-clad Carnavale dancers here, but you can dig into plates of zesty carioca chicken or Jamaican jerk shrimp with tostones, plantains, yucca fries, black beans and rice. The more faint of palate can downgrade the spice with plain grilled Argentina-style beefsteak or a selection of tropical salads. Kick back with a Red Stripe and finish off with a slice a raspberry red velvet cake.
Sam's Bagels
150 N. Larchmont Blvd. - Los AngelesRumors flew earlier this year that Sam’s was losing its lease and would be supplanted by a Panda Express. Luckily, that didn’t come to pass, and you can still get your B’eggel (bagel/egg sandwich) for at least another year. Sam’s doughy, discus-sized bagels put nearby Noah’s to shame. Flavors run the gamut from jalapeño to banana nut, with homemade cream cheese in sweet (pecan raisin) and savory (artichoke parmesan) varieties. The lox platter harkens back to a different Larchmont Village—the one just outside Manhattan.
Rachel Levin is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
Add a comment
Please log in to comment
Navigating: incredible edible L.A.
The ever-growing guide to savoring the city
What other people are saying...
justforgackt from Miracle mile - November 28, 2008 at 10:19 AM
I got completely distracted by the Panda.
Report This CommentSexualHarassmntPanda from China - September 02, 2008 at 1:10 PM
Where is Village Pizzeria? I enjoy their bamboo pies.
Report This Comment