Eat your heart out, New York. We’ve got a Manhattan too—and ours comes with sand. A jaunt along the pristine shoreline and envy-inducing homes can feel idyllic and grown-up all at once. It’s where the Big Kahuna would have settled down after creating a righteous investment portfolio. And, like the perfect town that it is, the beachfront of the M.B. offers the full spectrum of dining options—with a walk along the dunes for dessert. From mom-and-pop breakfast joints and gourmet sandwich shops to swankified affairs for dinner and a nightcap, there’s no reason to drive out anywhere else. Just be sure to keep your shoes nearby, surf dudes—showing up barefoot is still a party foul at most establishments.
Navigating: Manhattan Beach
A table just footsteps from the sands
By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix
June 25, 2008
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The Beach Hut
3713 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-8911
The kickin’ swells of El Porto are just a hop-skip from Hawaii, thanks to the Beach Hut. It’s a tiny storefront, but you can’t miss the happy, shaka-waving signage that greets surfers and landlubbers to a proper breakfast of Portuguese sausage, loco moco, and—oh, baby—Spam. Rice accompanies your sunny-side-up as well as the teriyaki. But if the haole in you cries out for more familiar breakfast starch, there’s French toast (made with Hawaiian bread) or pancakes topped with Macadamia nuts.
Beach Pizza
3301 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-546-5401
A debate over the area’s best pizza wouldn’t be complete without this family-owned favorite. Loyalists swear by the quality of ingredients that compose beachy-fun specials like the Hang Ten (a hot-dogger’s delight with pepperoni, sausage and meatball) and the Vege-terranean (baked eggplant, onions, bell peppers, mushrooms and olives). Stripped-down cheeseless options—also beach-appropriate, in a different way—accommodate low-cal needs. Though pizza isn’t available by the slice, the cozy brick-and-mortar space and friendly service provide every reason to dine in with a pint and a piping-hot pie.
Beaches
117 Manhattan Beach Blvd. - Manhattan Beach310-545-2523
Location, location, location. Boasting the very last spot on a hill that slopes directly into the pier, Beaches makes the most of its primo pied-à-terre with a multilevel structure that houses a bar, dance club, restaurant and a sweeping 180-degree view of the shoreline. (This kind of real-estate gold is almost braggadocious.) While the expected California cuisine is nothing to write home about, enjoying a martini and Caesar salad while ogling half-naked sun-worshippers is probably just what your parents expect out of their L.A. visit.
Cafe Pierre
317 Manhattan Beach Blvd. - Manhattan Beach310-545-5252
This Paris-by-way-of-sandy-shores bistro celebrated its 30th year in 2007 with a makeover in ooh-la-la blue and vampy red. Owner and chef Guy Gabriele is an institution himself, not only in the South Bay, but in culinary circles writ large: He’s buddy-buddy with such giants as Michel Richard, Jacques Pepin and the late, great Julia Child. What started in the ’70s as a creperie now exalts in classic dishes of escargots, rabbit and loup de mer, as well an excellent selection of French cheeses. The self-respecting Frenchman that he is, Gabriele also cures his own charcuterie.
Coco Noche
1140 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-4925
Coco Noche claims to be all about the chocolate and the wine, but there are actually plenty of other items on the menu. Among the savory small plates, there is a heavy emphasis toward Korean dishes such as pot stickers (maandu), bulgogi, and bibimbap. There are also panini and fruit and cheese platters more expected of a chocolate shop. But if you want a Korean platter, those are available as well. And of course, there are all manner of chocolates available, from fondue to dark chocolate comparison plates.
Darren's Restaurant and Bar
1141 Manhattan Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-802-1973
This small spot is an atmospheric improvement over the chef’s last effort, which was even smaller. This version has more décor and an alcohol license, as well as a charming patio. It’s a seafood-heavy menu, with the scallops and salmon earning especially high praise. Try the beet carpaccio as well.
Fonz's
1017 Manhattan Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-376-1536
What to do after making a name as a beach volleyball legend? If you’re Mike Dodd, the answer is to open up a restaurant and name it after your dear old dad. While the hometown hero is no longer partner in his pappy’s namesake, the surf-and-turf focus continues to draw locals and sports personalities alike. Is it a steakhouse in the way of Cut or Mastro’s? Hardly. But what could be more quintessentially California than a glass of Napa red and BBQ mahi-mahi just footsteps from the beach?
Hennessey's Tavern - Manhattan Beach
313 Manhattan Beach Blvd. - Manhattan Beach310-546-4813
Beachiness is the protocol at Hennessey's Tavern, where relaxing on the second floor patio with a Bloody Mary is encouraged to the point of almost being a requisite. Weekends at the bar can get packed, but that's how Hennessey devotees like it.
Katsu!
302 Rosecrans Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-546-3761
Katsu is El Porto’s resident by-the-beach sushi joint. The nondescript postage-stamp-sized room is easy to overlook—which is just fine with fans who would rather not fight for a coveted seat at the sushi bar. Trendy offerings like spicy tuna on crispy rice as well a happy hour with 99-cent Kirin and half-off rolls definitely cater to the beach party crowd. But sushi aficionados may find their snobbery pleasantly tickled, if not altogether corrected, by the fresh quality and expert cuts—just be sure to ask Katsu-san about off-menu items.
The Kettle
1138 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-8511
With the exposed beams, wood-carved furniture and hanging ferns, the outdated decor looks like Middle America’s interpretation of a Bavarian something-or-other. The extensive menu, in kind, impressively covers the major food groups of gravy, maple syrup and whipped cream, the perfect tonics to soothe the rowdy set that crowds in during the witching hour. The food is hardly stellar—Denny’s is a common comparison—but it’s open around the clock. What more could you ask for?
Koffee Kart
1104 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-372-6050
Koffee Kart may look small and unassuming, but like its seasoned waitresses, it’s got gumption. The self-billed “outrageous omelettes” are truly that, stockpiling anything that will take hold in an eggy matrix, from the conventional (bacon, mushrooms) and the goopy (chili or guac) to a kitchen sink jumble that ends up being more a gag than an actual menu item. The Enchilada Omelette, by far, has some serious huevos—you’ll find an entire beef enchilada tucked in the folds of this behemoth. Ah, multiculturalism is so grand.
La Creperie Cafe
1209 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-3509
Crepes not only taste better but are less calorie-laden when enjoyed beachside. What, no? This Long Beach favorite quietly set up a second location in downtown Manhattan Beach, and locals are already making it a regular breakfast spot. Contrary to the name, the café offers an extensive menu of omelettes, pastas, paninis and dinner entrees. But if you’re out to prove that man can live on crepes alone, the laundry list of savory and sweet should help in your endeavor.
The Local Yolk
3414 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-546-4407
The incredible, edible egg takes on new meaning with nearly three dozen ways to pack in your breakfast protein: scrambled; fried; betwixt sandwich bread; with ham, hash or hollandaise. Throw in griddle favorites of pancakes and waffles, and the list goes on and on. The lunch menu is equally encyclopedic, offering all manner of burgers, salads, sandwiches and even “south-of-the-border specialties.” Just getting through each description would take a morning session alone—no wonder the wait is so impossibly long.
Mama D’s Italian Kitchen
1125 Manhattan Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-546-1492
Mama D’s feels more like Brooklyn than Manhattan Beach. Sporting an aging green awning and homespun curtains, it’s the kind of neighborhood joint where garlic bread unironically kicks off a dinner of spaghetti and meatballs or chicken slathered in Mama’s famous pink sauce. The food may not be anything to write home about, but the service is always attentive, even familial. Your bill comes with a chocolate chip cookie—now that’s some motherly love.
Manhattan Beach Brewing Company
124 Manhattan Beach Blvd. - Manhattan Beach310-798-2744
Michael Zislis is the South Bay’s resident entrepreneurial whiz, opening hot spots like Brewski’s (now departed), Rock ’N Fish and the Shade Hotel. This brew pub started it all for Zislis, appropriately enough—he first concocted beer for a science experiment at the age of 13. Signature microbrews flow freely, along with fancier cocktails to quench sun-kissed locals. It’s the kind of place where a Manhattan Beach Blonde is both on tap and in the crowd. There’s plenty of bar grub too—burgers, hot wings, nachos—to keep the drinking going all night.
Manhattan Pizzeria
133 Manhattan Beach Blvd. - Manhattan Beach310-546-2117
The sidewalk-facing service window is easily the closest, most convenient food source by the pier. You can order a slice of pizza in your bikini—sandy feet and all—and not feel weird about it. That alone is reason enough for Manhattan Pizzeria’s popularity, but this run-of-the-mill-looking shop also tosses the best pie in town, if not all of L.A. For even the grumpiest East Coast transplant, the thin-crusted profile is the nearest thing to N.Y.-style in this godforsaken city. The late weekend hours (until 2:30 a.m.) make it a welcome and cheap alternative if you’ve drunkenly blown your cash elsewhere.
Mucho Ultima Mexicana
903 Manhattan Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-374-4422
The latest in the Zislis empire, Mucho Ultima Mexicana took over the old Michi space, replacing high-minded Asian fusion with nouveau Mexican fare. As is the current trend in splashy Latin affairs, the enchiladas and seafood entrees are gringo-ized with California flair, while the bar boasts a roster of tequila that would make Jose Cuervo weep. Menu items are sizable—the better to line your stomach as you take on the swanky lounge-like space and the $11-and-up drinks. Standout items like the fresh guac and ginormous peel-and-eat shrimp.
North End Cafe
3421 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-546-4782
This small, spare loft-like counter is a gourmet alternative to the griddle-crazed hubbub of Sloopy’s and the Local Yolk just across the street. Egg breakfasts are accented with goat cheese, bruschetta or tapenade; panini sandwiches are meticulously griddled and served with a side of organic greens; and fries come with a choice of aioli, chipotle mojo or a dozen other fancy sauces. You can count on an expertly made latte or cappuccino, although a good ol’ cup of joe is also quite excellent. Be prepared for a long wait, and mind the limited hours—the joint shuts down at 3 p.m.
Octopus
1133 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-2826
You may need eight tentacles to handle all the choices at Octopus. A Japanese restaurant with a focus on traditional sushi, Octopus also offers a good selection of rolls, teriyaki, sukiyaki and tempura entrees. Just a few blocks from the pier, it’s an ideal location for both an intimate dinner and a large party.
Pancho's
3615 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-6670
Pancho’s, in contrast to its familiar name and goofy mascot, is the prettiest restaurant along the Strand. Built in the 1920s, the white stucco hacienda has a sexier past than most establishments: It’s rumored to have been a gambling house and a brothel. Nightly entertainment nowadays is limited to live bands and musicians, as well as two dedicated evenings of karaoke. With selections like the chicken curry burrito and tostada vegetariana, food is far from authentic—but at least the portions are gigante. And nothing beats a stiff margarita in the gorgeous brick-tiled courtyard.
Penny Lane
820 Manhattan Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-374-6311
The reference to the Beatles song alone deserves a few style points; no matter the obtuse correlation between this eeny-meeny sushi restaurant and the lyrics “four of fish and finger pies.” Sushi and sashimi, while not mind-blowing, are standard fare with particular attention to specialty rolls—this is the South Bay, after all. It’s one of those hole-in-the-wall gems that locals love to make their own. Loyal clients who embrace the no-frills dining room and inconsistent hours are even rewarded with a 10 percent discount card.
Rock 'n Fish
120 Manhattan Beach Blvd. - Manhattan Beach310-379-9900
This well-regarded Manhattan Beach surf-and-turf eatery has a feel of Chicago or New Orleans with its high ceilings and brick walls covered with hand-painted murals. Housed in the former space of South Bay's beloved Hibachi restaurant, Rock 'n Fish has incorporated the latter's signature Teriyaki chicken into its menu.
Sloopy's
3416 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-1373
Never mind the seaside location: The draws at Sloopy’s are the outdoor delights of a warming fire pit and an enclosed patio overflowing with flowers and greenery. This jungle-like setting provides an exotic backdrop to an immense menu of American favorites, from salads and wraps to burgers and shakes.
Towne Restaurant
1142 Manhattan Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-5405
The 30-something scene convenes for drinks and apps at this Manhattan Beach restaurant and lounge. The location, atmosphere and modern decor make Towne a great place for a date, but noise from the bar can filter through to the restaurant on busy weekends. The menu ranges from fresh seafood to salads with produce fresh from the Santa Monica Farmer's Market.
Twelve+Highland
304 12th St. - Manhattan Beach310-545-1881
Tucked off the main drag of Highland Avenue, the whitewashed facade looks like a beach cottage your grandma might own—if she were an acolyte of Kelly Wearstler. Bluish grays and lavenders against pearly whites, filigreed lighting units, baroque wall pattern in bas relief and miles of draping—this could be WeHo by the sea. The ambitious menu of Colorado lamb, rib-eye and lobster is orchestrated by Armando Martinez, ex of Water Grill, who knows a thing or two about high-rolling items. If the permanent DJ station didn’t clue you in, the dining room also doubles as a club/lounge late into the night.
Uncle Bill's Pancake House
1305 Highland Ave. - Manhattan Beach310-545-5177
The early bird gets a table and everyone else gets to wait in line at this local favorite. Of course, the darn-good flapjacks are the house specialty; the omelettes come in a close second and are made with just about anything you can imagine. We especially lurve the bacon waffle. With or without cheddar cheese, the artery-clogging delight is definitely worth dying for. There are also lunch entrees of burgers, sandwiches and some other things—hey, who can pay attention when there are bacon waffles in the mix?
Jiyeon Yoo is Restaurants editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
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