The Waffle picks up speed
(Credit: Rachel Coleman)
Navigating: new Hollywood restaurants
A renaissance for clubbers and foodies alike
By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix, and Katherine Spiers, Special to Metromix
March 26, 2008
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25 Degrees
7000 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles323-785-7244
A burger bar in the ultra-glam Roosevelt deserves equally swankified environs. Designed by Dodd Mitchell (BOA, Katana, Sushi Roku), the bordello setting rocks rich damask wallpaper, upholstered leather booths and sparkling chandeliers. The food is all about the all-American beef patty, natch, with a long list of gourmet cheeses and add-ons to gussy up your burger. The name itself refers to the temperature difference between medium rare and well done—guess which side of that equation certifies you a foodie?
Bowery
6268 Sunset Blvd. - Los Angeles323-465-3400
It’s easy to overlook this sliver of a bistro bar—or easily mistake it for a gigantic kitchen, thanks to all the subway tiling, which also hints at owner George Abou-Daoud’s NYC origins. The crowd packs in like sardines, especially in the post-ArcLight hours, for a menu that mixes a little French brasserie (charcuterie and moules frites) with Anglo bar food (braised short ribs and a namesake burger). It’s consistently referenced by restaurant folks as a model of the gastropub trend—except the bar doesn’t serve any beer on tap.
Citizen Smith
1600 N. Cahuenga Blvd. - Los Angeles323-461-5001
To say that Citizen Smith has a bar scene would be a colossal understatement. This trendier-than-thou hot spot boasts an incongruous menu of comfort foods such as sliders, chicken and waffles, and the ubiquitous mac and cheese (though it’s spiced up with jalapeño here). You can also order a frozen-hot-chocolate ripped off from NYC’s Serendipity. But the true attractions are the dark, Gotham-esque setting and the beautiful crowd that would never touch such calorific food otherwise.
Dakota
7000 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles323-769-8888
This is the serious restaurant—a chic steakhouse-cum-supper-club—in the glamorous Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel. Here, the lighting is just bright enough and the leather booths just low enough for ideal celebrity stalking. The protein-laden menu features the usual suspects with big hulking names like Greater Omaha and Creekstone Prime, and impressive prices to boot—a 1-pound chateaubriand (perhaps to be shared?) is $78. The lengthy cheese and dessert menus are equally awe-inspiring.
The Hungry Cat
1535 N. Vine St. - Los Angeles323-462-2155
Hidden away in the commercial eyesore of the Sunset and Vine complex, Hungry Cat still thrives as a gastronome’s seafood Mecca. Executive chef and co-owner David Lentz (his partner/wife is chef wunderkind Suzanne Goin) is from Maryland, so he knows a thing or two about lobster rolls, crab legs and oysters. The tiny industrial space recently completed significant renovations: doubling the seating, adding a raw bar, and extending the counter that’s perfect for eating solo or chatting up the mixologist.
Katsuya Hollywood
6300 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles323-871-8777
In the second (and counting) iteration of Chef Katsuya Uechi as a restaurant brand name, the SBE Group busted out with a stellar space worthy of its historic Hollywood + Vine location. Famed Phillippe Starck continues the threesome project with more creepy disembodied images of geishas and a combination of ornate mirrors and moody lighting that makes us think of Phantom of the Opera. A gigantic sushi island anchors the main dining room while a bar in the foyer transitions over to the indispensable white-on-white lounge area. There's also the wacky Starck-appointed S-Bar right next door—in case you need even more decadence.
Joseph's Cafe
1775 Ivar Ave. - Los Angeles323-462-8697
It’s probably the most glamorous “cafe” we know. The dining room is decked out with sweeping drapes and canopied booths, and the enclosed patio promises one of the best spots in L.A. to go al fresco. The kitchen churns out respectable renditions of classic Greek and Mediterranean dishes: Can anyone say saganaki? Opa! While it used to promise a nightly gathering of celebrities, Joseph’s still has a thriving nightlife scene, turning into a club/lounge with headlining DJs and plenty of alcoholic incentive to dance the night away.
Lucky Devils
6613 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles323-465-8259
The “Lucky” is Lucky Vanous, the dude with the six-pack abs in the Diet Coke ads from the ’90s; he obviously has no problem doling out burgers, shakes and beer, even if he doesn’t taint his own body temple with such sinful delights (at last sighting, dude still looks pretty good). While the setting looks like a straight-up fast-food joint, the burger menu is decidedly foodie-fied. And nothing sets off a gastronome’s salivary glands—or checkbook—like the word Kobe. Full brunch, lunch and dinner menus of non-burger stuff are available, as well as an assortment of shakes, cakes and frozen custard that will give your abs a different kind of workout.
Magnolia
6266 1/2 Sunset Blvd. - Los Angeles323-467-0660
Magnolia's contemporary art deco-chic fashion statement boasts one of the most stylish rooms in the city. Coveted lounge areas with wraparound couches and coffee tables are interspersed throughout the breezy interior. But if the warm Californian air is a-callin', sidewalk seating in front or the intimate back patio is a fine option. The menu—kind of a stockpile of food trends from the past three years or so—may not be the most innovative, but it's solid grub, especially at 2 a.m and with a delish ginger martini. Got to catch a show or a movie at the ArcLight? Let the staff know. They're pros at getting you out in time.
Melograno
6541 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles323-465-6650
Chef Alberto Lazzarino derives inspiration from his birthplace of Piemonte to compose an unlikely epicurean haven of pasta, lamb, fish and a very popular nettle gnocchi in the middle of a tourist-addled boulevard. Piemonte’s direct proximity to France has resulted in a rich, elaborate approach to Italian cuisine, accented with truffles and complemented by indigenously produced wines—all of which are represented here. Such culinary cred is just one of the notable bourgeoning stars popping up along the Walk of Fame.
Sushi Ike
6051 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles323-856-9972
What it lacks in atmosphere, this strip mall gem makes up with flavorful, high-quality sushi. Locals and hardcore connoisseurs alike seek straightforward sushi and sashimi—it’s hardly a place for specialty rolls, although the chefs can whip up several varieties (this is L.A. after all). It’s a tiny room, so make reservations and prepare a Zen chant as you attempt the impossible parking situation. Once you’ve secured your cherished spot, order the signature grilled octopus. Trust us: It’s a revelatory eating experience.
The Waffle
6255 W. Sunset Blvd. - Los Angeles323-465-6901
It’s 2 a.m. and you’re starving. Might as well stay ahead of the curve and go for breakfast. The Waffle closes for a couple of hours in the dawn’s early light, but for the other 22 it serves all manner of comfort classics. Waffles of every permutation are the highlights of the menu: bacon waffles, jalapeño waffles, sticky bun waffles, waffles with fruit or chocolate. If you incline toward the savory, omelettes, scrambles and hash browns can be had, as well as plenty of salads and sandwiches if you’re feeling more lunch-y. And there’s a full bar. Waffles and booze, what a combo!
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