Bloom Cafe's sidewalk patio
(Credit: Los Angeles Times/Carlos Chavez)
Navigating: Pico Corridor
Nations united in a restaurant row
By Jiyeon Yoo, Metromix and Amir Kenan, Metromix
May 14, 2008Lucy's Drive-In
1373 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles323-938-4337
It may appear to be a dubious institution on the bustling corner of Pico and La Brea, but you get no-frills Mexican fare without having to leave your car, and that’s hardly dubious. Huge burritos, crispy tacos and huevos rancheros are some of the city’s best hangover remedies (although you really shouldn’t be driving in such condition). Lucy’s is open 24 hours, so feel free to stumble over whenever you regain consciousness.
Roscoe's House of Chicken N' Waffles
5006 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-934-4405
If you’re a self-respecting Angeleno, you know chicken and waffles. The combination may sound plain wrong, but it’s an L.A. classic that’s oh so right. Before the expansion of the popular Gower location, Roscoe’s on Pico was favored for its quieter (not quiet, just quieter) vibe and free parking lot. There’s still a wait, especially on weekend nights, but you’ll slide into a sticky booth soon enough. Just keep your elbows off the table: This is Big Mama’s house, and she’ll learn you some manners.
La Bodeguita de Pico
5047 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-937-2822
This inviting little spot promises a Cuban experience as authentic as dining with Papa in Habana Vieja of the ’40s. That pretty much amounts to live Cuban music on most nights, salsa dancing, and plenty of food and drink. Classics like papas rellenas (fried potato balls stuffed with ground beef), pressed Cuban sandwiches and fried plantains are all here. Prices run high for this stretch of Pico, but where else in the city does the arroz con pollo come with so much atmosphere?
Oki-Dog
5056 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-938-4369
Pink’s is child’s play; Oki-Dog is for big-league eaters. The signature Oki-Dog is a tortilla loaded with two hot dogs, grilled pastrami, chili and cheese that mysteriously gets yummier as the night progresses. To think, this fusion delight was brought over by a bruddah from Honolulu. The ramshackle Pico location also seems to suffer a bit of an identity crisis: It doesn’t know whether to call itself Oki-Dog or Oki’s-Dog. It’s still the same promise of indigestion.
Maurice's Snack n' Chat
5068 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-931-3879
At 90-plus years old—it isn’t nice to ask a lady her exact age, you know—Maurice Prince is herself an L.A. institution, long helming a kitchen that has drawn the likes of Elizabeth Taylor, Johnny Depp and Jim Carrey. After a four-year break, Prince opened this current location and picked up where she left off: frying each chicken in a cast iron skillet and dishing out Southern staples of collard greens and candied yams. It’s mostly takeout, but feel free to sit down and relax. Each order takes a while—in slow Southern style.
Indulge Cafe
5101 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-935-4333
Back in the day, a place right on the corner of Fairfax and Pico called itself Mo’ Better Meatty Meat Burgers—we kid you not. Its sudden disappearance, for some, meant the loss of the city’s best burger. But the owners have returned to the neighborhood. Despite the jumbo name, the space is small and spare with a compact menu dedicated to all manners of disk-shaped food matter—the turkey and veggie varieties are excellent. Many have already decreed the burgers at Indulge to be worthy of its alliteration-happy predecessor.
Wi Jammin Caribbean Restaurant
5103 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-965-9809
L.A. only has a handful of Caribbean restaurants, and Wi Jammin easily wins for best name. It must be a happenin’ spot, as the kitchen has a tendency to run out of the most popular items, such as the Jamaican beef patties. But if the stars align, you can brave what may be the hottest jerk chicken in town. While some say the fiery, sinus-searing spice is what makes it authentic, the lining of your stomach probably won’t concur.
City Best Chicken
5303 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-938-7409
This hole in the wall might not quite live up to its name (unless Zankou goes out of business sometime soon). But what City Best Chicken lacks in name recognition, it makes up for with diverse and numerous selections of Persian favorites such as chicken shawarma, shish kebabs and lamb gyros. It also claims the funniest menu item around: the Sorry Charlie. Yep, it’s tuna salad.
La Maison du Pain
5373 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-934-5858
The name translates to “the house of pain” (just kidding), but the only thing that hurts at this boulangerie is the realization that you've been driving past it for so long without dropping in for a bite. The proprietors are two sisters who left their corporate jobs to bake proper French baguettes, croissants and some fancy-looking tarts. Keep your eyes out for a Filipino treat or two, inspired by the sisters’ homeland. Prepared items include French toast and croque monsieur made with house-baked brioche, naturellement.
Sky's Gourmet Tacos
5408 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-932-6253
Behind the windows of this sliver of a restaurant, Mexican food is evolving into something most abuelitas never intended. Sky's takes a traditional taco or torta; adds shrimp, lobster or the occasional crawfish; and splashes on its sweet-hot Sassy Sauce. Turkey tacos evoke sloppy Joes, but fillings run the entire gamut from carnitas to veggies and tofu as well as mahi mahi, salmon or tilapia. Customers munch on chips and salsa while sipping lemonade from mason jars. Behold, Mexican soul food.
CJ's Cafe
5501 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-936-3216
The homey joint serves both Mexican dishes and soul food—and manages to execute both quite well. On the Mexican side, you'll find authentic renditions of huevos rancheros, pollo a la pancha, pierna al horno (spicy pork roast) and carne asada torta. On the other hand, chicken wings and fried catfish with sides of collard greens, black-eyed peas and grits will soothe your soul. To round everything out, the kitchen offers freshly squeezed juices in various combinations of apple, carrot, celery and beet.
Bloom Cafe
5544 Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-934-6900
On a smog-choked stretch of Pico, this fresh, mid-century modern cafe serves organic entrees and fresh salads garnished with edible flowers and carved tomato roses. The lemonade is dressed with mint, the water flavored with cucumber, and the apple-papaya-banana-spirulina-bee-pollen juice freshly squeezed. The largely French waiters may be leisurely in their service, but the friendly neighborhood crowd sitting in the neon orange and green chairs doesn't seem to mind. Bloom's a place where people take time to smell the flowers—and the delicious eco-friendly food.
Little Owl Café
5545 W. Pico Blvd. , Los Angeles323-936-0113
The snazzy-looking signage announces this recent arrival. As a newcomer, Little Owl is trying to be all things to as many neighborhood people as possible. The menu is expansive, offering the usual suspects of sandwiches, salads and breakfast combos as well as an unexpected mix of Mexican and Italian dishes. Plus, management has already secured a liquor license—now that’s impressive.
Campos Tacos
5583 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-935-9737
Campos Tacos (not to be mistaken with Campos of the “Famous Burritos”) is a local chain of stripmall taquerias. It may not provide the most authentic or revelatory experience, but it sure isn’t Taco Bell either. Selections are meaty, packed with carnitas, carne asada and al pastor to a bigger-than-normal heft. Not that we’re complaining, as we always like to get our money’s worth—which is less than two bucks for a taco.
Olson's Scandinavian Delicatessen
5660 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles323-938-0742
For over half a century (that's an eternity in Angeleno years), Olson's Scandinavian Delicatessen has been slicing up imported Havarti cheese and selling out-of-date Swedish calendars to the local, predominantly non-Scandinavian community. Check out the tubes of shrimp-flavored cheese paste (yum!) and all things lingonberry, natch. There’s no need to schlep over to Ikea: Olson’s sells homemade Swedish meatballs by the bag.
New India Sweets & Spices
1245 S. Fairfax Ave., Los Angeles323-936-6736
The tiny storefront manages double duty as Indian market and to-go counter. It doesn’t look like much, but the vibrant display of pre-made curries, chana and samosas offers some of the tastiest renditions in L.A. True to its name, the sweet stuff, such as curlicues of jalebi and piles of ladoo, is equally delicious. What else to go with a meal of aloo gobi and chicken tikka masala? Bollywood, of course—there’s a library of DVDs available for rent.
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