Modest foodie metropolises—cities that aspire to the sprawling appetites of, say, S.F. and N.Y.—often boast a single, cartographically specific Restaurant Row. L.A.’s got one, marked by an (un)official-looking sign designating the quarter-mile stretch of La Cienega Boulevard just north of Wilshire Boulevard. Of course, it’s totally anachronistic, a relic of a time before the epicurean playgrounds of Beverly Boulevard, 3rd Street and Melrose Avenue took shape. While grand-scale eateries (let alone dining in the 90211) seem downright passé now, we admit those big brand names and cavernous dining halls are a godsend when the ’rents are in town. Plus, the splashy imminence of the SLS hotel and the West Coast debut of celebrity chef Jose Andres this fall should cause a “row” all their own.
Navigating: Restaurant Row
Bring the 'rents—and a big appetite
By Jiyeon Yoo
MetromixSeptember 15, 2008
Benihana
38 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsSushi isn’t the only thing Middle Americans associate with Japanese cuisine, thanks to Rocky Aoki (R.I.P.), who founded the Benihana chain back in 1964. (Indie kids Steve and Devon came along much later.) It also involves flashing knives, flying shrimp, twirling eggs and a flaming volcano made of onion rings, all flamboyantly tossed on a giant tableside griddle. Savvy Angelenos know better than to mistake the theatrics for traditional Japanese fare (we hope), but ever since Michael Scott and company paid a visit one Christmas, we see the kitschy appeal of crashing that office party. Well played, Steve Carrell.
Fogo De Chao
133 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsQuick lesson in Portuguese phonology: It’s pronounced foh-goh de showng. Founded in South America, the restaurant chain specializes in churrasco, or Brazilian-style barbecue. The setup is very straightforward: At a fixed per-person price, it’s all-you-can-eat as servers traverse the room bearing picanha, linguica, filet wrapped in bacon and various other meats on sizable skewers. They come to you, as long as you give the “go” sign—literally, there’s a green and red indicator at each table. Carbs are equally heaped on in the form of cheese bread, fried plantains, polenta and mashed potatoes, while an enormous salad bar offers, at the very least, a reason to stretch your legs. Translation: Go hungry.
Gonpachi
134 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsPlagued with more staff exits and replacements than the first season of Melrose Place, Gonpachi has had a drama-laden opening year, to put it gently. But despite the media scrutiny and deathwatch speculations, the magnificent folkloric setting, with possibly the city’s most beautiful courtyard, remains. (Others have referenced the final, blood-drenched scene in Kill Bill, Vol.1.) Neither the sushi nor the small izakaya¬-style dishes have really impressed, but the housemade soba—a glassed-in room enables you to witness said noodle-making—may be worth its shio.
Grand Lux Cafe
121 N. La Cienega Blvd. - West HollywoodWedged in at the base of the Beverly Center shopping mall, Grand Lux Cafe sits just to the north of Restaurant Row, strictly defined. But the larger-than-life, showboating antics—the motto, after all, reads “Anything you want to eat, anytime you want it”—seem very much in spirit with the degustatory titans along the boulevard. Modeled, supposedly, after the dining culture of Venice and Paris, it’s Europe done the Cheesecake Factory way, complete with imported marble and vaulted ceilings. The monumental space is outmatched by the hulking menu, throwing in everything from ahi burgers to wiener schnitzel.
Gyu-Kaku
163 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsYakiniku, broadly speaking, is a Japanese version of Korean barbecue. That kind of cultural crossover is apparent in a menu that offers both edamame and kimchee (as priced starters!) as well as unagi for the sizzling bibimbap. Grilling miscellany includes galbi, rib-eye, Kagoshima-raised Wagyu as well as Cali-inspired jidori chicken and sausages made from Berkshire pork. It probably won’t be the best DIY barbecue experience, and it certainly won’t be the cheapest, but Gyu-Kaku was one of the first places we saw these snazzy, smoke-minimizing braziers. We’re very glad for that.
Lawry's The Prime Rib
100 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly Hills2008 marked the 70th year for this Los Angeles institution, opened by brothers-in-law who were restaurateurs long before they started bottling spices, seasonings and such. Not much has changed in the signature dining service. Space-age silver carts deliver a carving station tableside, a spinning bowl tosses the salad, the opulent decor still feels like a room suited for an aging millionaire. Sure, there’s plenty of variety on the menu: Prime rib is available in five distinct cuts, and you can even throw in a lobster tail or two if you’re feeling surfy-turfy. Larry Flynt has been known to roll in on his gold-plated wheels.
Lodge Steakhouse
14 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsTrendy, high-profile steakhouses are a dime a dozen in this town, but this trendy, high-profile spot marked the first-ever collaboration of nightlife alpha males Adolfo Suaya and Michael Sutton. If the wilderness-y name didn’t give it away, their penchant for alpine chic—animal pelts and a Scandinavian forest worth of lumber—debuted here too. The duo has now left, though the peppered bacon as bar snack still remains. Considering the recent travails of subsequent Suaya-Sutton holdings (Goa, Charcoal), we think the Lodge got the better end of that deal.
Matsuhisa
129 La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsThere’s a Nobu in Malibu, several in New York and just as many in London. There’s a Nobu in Milan, Hong Kong, Melbourne, Greece, even one in the Bahamas. There are plans for a Nobu Hotel. But of all the 20-plus worldwide location, this humble, (dare we say) worn-in storefront is where Nobu Matsuhisa first staked a claim on Asian fusion cuisine as we know it. It’s practically a culinary landmark: When a more spectacular Nobu was set to open on the north side of the boulevard, preservationists decried Matushisa’s scheduled closing—and got their way. Thank you, insurgent foodies.
Morton's the Steakhouse
435 S. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsFor quite some time, this town was indeed big enough for two industry-courting heavies with the name Morton’s. (Imagine the confusion among tourists and rookie cabbies working the post-Oscar shift!) But when the Morton’s of Vanity Fair fêtes closed its doors at the end of 2007, this Beverly Hills steakhouse sired by Arnie Morton of Chicago saw fit to get a makeover and name change—no doubt a proprietary gesture. The spruced-up digs most notably boast a new bar, Bar 12-21, with flat-screen TVs and a snacky menu of miniaturized meats and things. The full flesh-eating menu, of course, is very much intact.
The Stinking Rose
55 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsA stinking restaurant? Hardly a prudent business model, but what do we know? An import from San Francisco’s Little Italy, this garlic-steeped mega-eatery is still, after all these years, pretty stinking successful. The menu is generally Italian alla Americana, with all kinds of other proteins and products that bear the garlicky load. The restaurant itself is a catacomb of rooms (yes, that signpost does point you to Garlywood) decked out in the bric-a-brac of Anne Rice’s belfry. Irony much? Yes, yes, it’s practically coming out of our pores.
Tanzore
50 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsThe latest from the international Gaylord India group—in fact, taking over the space of L.A.’s only Gaylord outpost—Tanzore turned heads upon arrival. Not an easy accomplishment in this image-driven city, but the stylish decor (saturated in crimson, mustard, and persimmon hues) earned a Restaurant Design Award. The food, in kind, befits the furnishings: It’s stylized Indian with Californian touches. Lamb kebabs come with a side of mashed potatoes, asparagus accompanies tandoori chicken, and there’s curry with mushroom and spinach if the traditional Kashmiri lamb option won’t do. There’s also a swanky lounge outfitted in inviting blue and even more inviting cocktails—the better to enjoy the evening’s selection of Bollywood movies.
Tokyo Table
50 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsThe popularity of robatayaki-ya, yakitori-ya, and even Katsuya was well-deserved; the slew of imitators that followed? Not so much. A kind of catchall for Japanese dining, Tokyo Table offers a vast array of noodles and rice bowls, tempura, grilled meats, sizzling pots, and Western-skewing dishes like sushi pizza (not as bad as it sounds) and mochi cheese gratin (truly ill-advised). The raw stuff, however, only comes in the form of specialty sushi rolls. That—and the happy hour mob, happy to get its saketini on—should tell you exactly where you’re at.
Woo Lae Oak
170 N. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsTo many, the fact that Woo Lae Oak is part of a restaurant chain, albeit an international one, is highly suspicious—the non-Koreatown location even more so. From portion sizes and prices to the perceived lack of authenticity in the food and servers, what haven’t people complained about? But as high-minded Korean restaurants go, Woo Lae Oak was one of the first in Los Angeles to update classic dishes and offer them in a refined, upscale environment. That might be too much monkeying around, especially for K-town enthusiasts, but judging from the longevity of the place, it seems to suit Beverly Hills just fine.
The Bazaar by Jose Andres
465 S. La Cienega Blvd. - Beverly HillsCatering to those of the Adderall generation, the Bazaar features three distinct mini venues within the bar/restaurant that patrons can peruse throughout the night. Bazaar showcases both modern and tranditional Spanish tapas and "molecular" cocktails. Fusing sophomore year chemistry with mixology, Jose Andres features drinks like margaritas with salt air and the liquid nitrogen caipirinha. Your check follows you through the three areas: Bar Centro (crudo bar and cocktails), Rojo y Blanco (tapas), and La Patisserie (sweets and candies). There are also roving dim sum carts that serve specials ranging from salmon roe w/cream cheese to foie gras w/corn nuts.
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LA Native from Los Angeles - September 23, 2008 at 10:30 PM
Lawry's is one of a small handfull of the last of LA's traditional fine dining restaurants....gone are Andre's, Perino's and the Brown Derby. :-( I...
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Report This CommentMightyRed from Westish - September 17, 2008 at 4:52 PM
San Francisco's Italian neighborhood is called North Beach, FYI.
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