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Navigating: USC/Exposition Park

Where to satisfy your Trojan appetite

By Jiyeon Yoo

Metromix
October 1, 2008

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(Credit: Aimee Brodeur)

Two predicaments to be avoided in the USC principality of Exposition Park: (a) sporting a UCLA T-shirt and (b) being very, very hungry. While Trojan country has somehow managed to feed an entire ass-kicking football program, 2008 brought some culinary milestones with the launch of an on-campus farmers market and the fall opening of the Lot Marketplace, a sparkling semi-permanent dining facility that will feed the youths until an even snappier student center is completed in 2010. Still, eager minds cannot live on university-sanctioned bread—or post-game bacon-wrapped hot dogs—alone. Besides, the neighborhood’s Trojan pride has its perks: The best local joints are cheap and open late, and some even have free Wi-Fi.

23rd Street Cafe

936 W. 23rd St. - Los Angeles

213-749-1593

Not to be confused with the 29th Street Cafe, this humbler counter garners praise for an eclectic menu of American, Mexican and Indian standards. Considerable burgers and sandwiches with equally worthy fries are served alongside samosas and tikka masala as well as tacos, sopes and pupusas. And in the area’s heavy concentration of breakfast burritos, 23rd's rendition, chock-full of the house’s fantastic hash browns, is a hefty contender.

29th Street Cafe

2827 Hoover St. - Los Angeles

213-746-2929

Following the ’SC penchant for abbreviating the names of its beloved institutions, the cafe housed in a historic West Adams Victorian on the corner of Hoover and 29th Street is known simply as “the 2-9.” It’s really more of a sports bar—hence the progressive crawl from “Traddy’s” (Traditions, the on-campus bar) to the 2-9 to “the 9-0” (901 Bar)—with midday coffeehouse pretensions. Needless to say, the place is consistently packed, despite the consistent complaints about service or food or unscrupulous pricing. Hey, tradition is a powerful thing.

Bacaro L.A.

2308 S. Union Ave. - Los Angeles

213-748-7205

Somehow a Venetian-inspired bacaro found its way into Exposition Park, daring to elevate the neighborhood food culture with wine flights and the kitchen’s version of cicheti (essentially, bar snacks). The vino list is eclectic, a globetrotting result of the owners’ (also USC alumni) whimsy; food ranges from bruschetta and the de rigueur cheese plate to more refined offerings of hanger steak or grilled octopus. Callow collegians may opt for the burger or the grilled-cheese lunch special, but the all-out, all-you-can-gorge Beefsteak Sunday brings out the insatiable frat bro in all of us.

Chanos

3000 S. Figueroa St. - Los Angeles

213-747-3944

Behold, Padawan, your hangover dream. This humble drive-through has been a final stop for many a drunken Trojan (nope, not meant to be redundant), offering the ethanol-soaking succor of carne asada, wrapped conventionally in fluffy tortilla or piled atop a frenzy of fries or the much-celebrated nachos. Of course, there are plenty of other meat options, including burgers, pastrami and a pastrami burger (known as the Mixed-up) for the gringos. If you’re actually sober enough to drive, bring a friend: The pickup window is inconveniently on the shotgun side.

Chichen Itza at Mercado La Paloma

3655 S. Grand Ave. - Los Angeles

213-741-1075

Long before its elegant sibling set up a full-service shop in MacArthur Park, Chichen Itza was enlightening Angelenos, ostensibly well-versed in Mexican food, to the delights (and differences) of Yucatecan cuisine from this modest food court stand. Now known as the quick-service location, this Chichen Itza continues to dole out such Mayan-inflected classics as pibil (meat braised in banana leaves with sour orange and achiote), poc chuc (pork marinated in sour orange and achiote, then grilled) and panuchos (Yucatan’s version of tacos). Food hounds still choose to venture to this originating spot, for more than nostalgia’s sake.

Jean P’s Soul Food Express - CLOSED

2540 S. Figueroa St. - Los Angeles

213-741-2126

The overly fastidious may high-tail it at the sight of the strip mall location and the brazen signage advertising 99-cent food, but Jean P’s offers more than just the two C’s (cheap and convenient) of college dining. The grub is praised for its stick-to-your-soul authenticity: collard greens, mac ‘n’ cheese, catfish, cornbread, indiscriminate measures of gravy. Everything is set out before you at the buffet counter, so know that the fried chicken won’t be piping-hot. (Duh, what do you think the gravy’s for?) Bonus points: barbecuing happens in the parking lot.

La Barca

2414 S. Vermont Ave. - Los Angeles

323-735-6567

The lunch crowd of cops gives way to Trojan happy hour at this sit-down restaurant—especially on Tuesdays, when the entire USC populace arrives for the $2 (plus 95-cent) margaritas. Plain or strawberry? Salt? On the rocks? Whatever your poison, you’ll get it potent. The quality of one’s food experience may be proportionate to the number of drinks one imbibes, ranging from “damn good” to “a notch above Acapulco.” But no one would argue with La Barca’s signature El Coloso burrito, which delivers on its colossal name and has inspired gluttonous legends.

La Taquiza

3009 S. Figueroa St. - Los Angeles

213-741-9795

This deservedly popular taqueria is also known, according to its own signage, as the House of Mulitas. A novelty for even the most ardent taco-enthusiast, a mulita takes the elements of a taco—in this case, two corn tortillas, meat, guac—and griddles them together with cheese like a quesadilla. Definitely a must-have, but just about everything is at La Taquiza. Tortillas are handmade; the salsa is flavorful, kicky and offered in diversity; and the al pastor is gorgeously prepared on a vertical spit. Carne asada, lengua, suadero—where to begin? Just be sure to wash everything down with the deliciously refreshing horchata or agua fresca.

Manas Creative Indian Cuisine

2823 S. Vermont Ave. - Los Angeles

323-731-4333

This casual Indian restaurant has all the qualities of a neighborhood gem: warm service, affordable prices, great food and an obscurity that prompts a fierce sense of possessiveness in its fans. Some even argue it’s the best Indian cuisine on this side of town. Chicken biryani, vindaloo, curries, masalas—all satisfy in flavor and in heat. Be forewarned: A request for “spicy” will be justly met. The excellent naan and an extra mango lassi will hose out the fire.

Pasta Roma

2827 S. Figueroa St. - Los Angeles

213-742-0303

In a sea of tacos and chili cheese, a place for spaghetti and meatballs seems downright refined, even if it is served in a cafeteria-like atmosphere. It’s hardly a Lady and the Tramp kind of date place, but pastas are made to order, garlic rolls are baked in-house, and salads are fresh and actually full of veggies (a rarity in the college diet). The campus-adjacent location also dictates massive carbo-loading portions, providing ample opportunity to pad your freshman 15.

Pete’s Burgers

2400 S. Hoover St. - Los Angeles

213-748-3206

The name is a misnomer: Burgers are the least of Pete’s business. A multicultural array of gyros, carne asada and even horchata rounds out American offerings of breakfast classics, fries and milkshakes. But it’s the chicken special—half a fried chicken, salad, rolls and fries—that’s got all the kids crowing.

Ragazzi Room

2316 S. Union Ave. - Los Angeles

213-741-1723

Ragazzi is USC’s resident Starbucks alternative, and a worthy one at that. The indie coffeehouse is a place of productive solace, offering plenty of tables with adjacent outlets and free Wi-Fi (with purchase, you moochers) as well as procrastination-inducing couches and library of board games. The full menu of coffee drinks is impressive, as is the selection of food, which ranges from the customary pastries to substantial sandwiches, pastas and chicken pot pie, if you’re in the mood. The normally limited hours are often extended for cram week, er, midterms and finals.

Viztango Cafe

3017 S. Figueroa St. - Los Angeles

213-745-8050

Matt Leinert, former QB darling, gave this Italian eatery a shout-out—when it was known formerly known as Bistango. Owner Tito Rivera boasts experience at Spago, but this restaurant is casual, unpretentious and particularly generous toward its Trojan neighbors. Cheap prices, massive servings (there are even family platter options) and a complimentary basket of focaccia are a starving student’s dream. The inventive salad pizza also helps the veggies go down. You’ll get a stuffed animal, rather than a number, while you wait for your order. A bit too cutesy perhaps, but we get it: Viztango is like home.

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1 comment | Add Your Own

enhager from university park, Leimert Park - June 19, 2009 at 11:27 PM

Don't forget about Mo-Chica, Peruvian food in the Mercado La Paloma, Cafe Corsa for coffee and snacks and the Salad Farm at 23rd and Fig, The Cave ...

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