Changeless: Father's Office burger
(Credit: Shane Redsar)
Spring crop
Wieners—and pizza and burgers—are so big this season
By Katherine Spiers, Special to Metromix
April 3, 2008Lot 1
1533 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles213-481-8400
Josef Centeno is a locally famous chef who made Opus in Koreatown into the unexpected culinary powerhouse it once was. Foodies went into a frenzy when he left, but now they can rest easy: he has his own place in Echo Park. Lot 1 will continue with some of the elements Centeno excelled at previously, such as tasting menus and bacos, the flatbread/taco-y things with an international array of toppings. The entire menu, in fact, is pretty international, with small-plates offerings from cheese and salumi plates to sashimi to popovers with chimichurri sauce. If it's as good as Opus, it'll be a slam-dunk.
Greenleaf Gourmet Chopshop
9671 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills310-246-0756
Salad bars are so hot right now. Beverly Hills is getting in on the action with this lunchtime-only spot that offers a pretty wide array of salads and wraps. Lunch can be chosen off the menu board or customers can create their on, using all manner of vegetables and protein options such as rotisserie chicken, barbecue shrimp and ahi. Other salads include the Kitchen Sink Cobb, Chop Chop, and for some reason, something called a Buffalo Wangs.
Wolfgang's Steakhouse
445 N. Canon Dr., Beverly Hills310-385-0640
First things first: No, this is not another Wolfgang Puck enterprise. It remains to be seen whether this town is big enough for two Wolfgangs, but this new interloper comes to us from New York with a pretty strong reputation. With two Manhattan locations, this is among New York's most well-received upscale steakhouses, and the exclusivity is sure to fare well among Beverly Hills denizens. There's a "private room" that's actually in the center of the room, with glass walls, which seems a good fit for the agents and executives who will no doubt love it here. And no matter where you sit, you can order a three-pound lobster or a 72-ounce steak.
Three Drunken Goats
2256 Honolulu Ave., Los Angeles818-249-9950
This small space is bringing the best of Spanish food and wine to the 'burbs. The plates range from small to large and include such items as braised pork and bacon-wrapped dates stuffed with chorizo (hello, pork!). The wine list is quite impressive, though (purposefully) limited in scope to mainly Californian and, especially, Spanish bottles.
The Infield
14333 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks818-501-1850
Fans of The Dip will be sad to see an old favorite go, but the good news is that its replacement, The Infield, is owned by the same family. The menu is still just as simple, but now focuses on hot dogs and sausages (the whole place is an homage to baseball, with themed decor and TVs broadcasting "greatest moments"-type clips). Hot dogs range from $3 for a simple one with brown mustard and sauerkraut to $6 for terrifying concoctions such as the Twinkie Dog (twinkie as a bun, Cheez Wiz, whipped cream and a cherry). It's not exactly gourmet, but it has a certain appeal.
Delancey
5936 W. Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles323-924-2093
The man behind the Bowery, one of L.A.'s most popular erstwhile gastropubs, has gone further down the restaurant path. This newer endeavor has plenty of wine, fancy beers and a lot of cocktails, but there's bountiful food as well. The menu is sort of Italian by way of New York, with items like meatball Parmesan, pasta Bolognese and fried calamari. Things tend to get experimental (the crostini are inventive), but do not suit some palates. Which is fine—there's plenty of space at the bar for wine and a cannoli.
Father's Office II
3229 Helms Ave., Los Angeles310-815-9820
At long last, after months of speculation and rumors and blatant snooping around, Father’s Office opens in the historic Helms Bakery building. This version 2.0 is a significant upgrade—nearly doubling the capacity of the original and housing twice as many beer taps. Wine by the glass also comes from a tap, and there’s an artisanal spirits menu which includes 25-year Armagnac and organic tequila from Jalisco, Mexico, but nary a drop of vodka. The food menu, however, and its strict "no modifications" mantra, hasn’t changed—so, no, you can’t have the burger your way.
Gus's Barbecue
808 Fair Oaks Ave., South Pasadena626-779-3251
This family-run-since-1946 establishment was purchased in 2007 by another Pasadena restaurant family: the folks behind Original Tops. The new owners are wholly respectful of the restaurant's history and the can’t-miss red brick building is still anointed by the original neon sign graced with running chickens and little piggies, but the food has changed. The focus is even more on barbecue now, with the addition of a rotisserie and two smokers. There are modern touches throughout, but essentially it's a menu of classics, from the pulled pork to the ice cream sundaes.
Royal/T
8910 Washington Blvd., Culver City310-559-6300
Don't get freaked out—they're supposed to be wearing those maid outfits. L.A’s first “cosplay” cafe pays homage to the most extreme Japanese fashion: people who wear costumes all the time. Equal parts tea room, boutique and art space, Royal/T is a Japanese pop world brimming with manga, CDs, accessories and various kawaii tchotchkes. And, yes, there’s high tea and desserts to go with the French-maid servers.
Lemonade
505 S. Flower St., Los Angeles213-488-0299
Mall food court restaurants have a deservedly poor reputation, but it looks like Lemonade is the opposite of everything bad you've ever thought about them. And it's cafeteria-style, to boot! Prices are extremely reasonable, especially given the food quality: Pot roast, elaborate salads with or without proteins, sandwiches on fancy bread and dreamy desserts are all regular offerings. And yes, there is lemonade—usually a few flavored varieties of it.
Flake
513 Rose Ave., Venice310-396-2333
Flake has a concept that appeals to students, stoners, and all other wise souls: breakfast served until dusk. The focus is on cereal, and various combinations of grains, fruit, candy, nuts and milk can be compiled into one custom creation. And although this is a temple to the great American invention, the breakfast sandwiches earn high praise as well; check out the turkey and avocado on a bagel.
The Park
1400 Sunset Blvd., Los Angeles213-482-9209
Echo Park's gentrification continues apace here, but at least it does so at a reasonable price point. The menu is an unusual mix of American classics (burgers, steak, spaghetti and meatballs) and Asian-tinged dishes such as salmon with black bean sauce, "Szechuan-style" calamari, and Jidori chicken, which is already being praised as a standout dish. Go figure. But the environment is friendly, and without a wine or beer list, it’s strictly BYOB. What’s more inviting than no corkage fee?
Seven Restaurant Bar
555 W. 7th St., Los Angeles213-223-0777
Any new non-chain restaurant is a welcome addition to Downtown, as far as we're concerned. Seven won't be bringing in huge crowds of young trendsetters—it's too expensive for that—but it will keep professionals hanging out longer after work (especially if they have an expense account). The food isn't stellar, but at least it's trying. The mixed seafood and veggie fry-up is pretty good and the lamb chops are excellent, though the sides that come with them are decidedly not. There's also a bar menu for those looking for something lighter; the wine list is pretty extensive and will soon be joined by a full bar.
Malibu Pier Club
23000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu310-456-9800
This club is mainly a place to get your drink on with fancy-sounding beach-themed cocktails, which don't quite seem to match up with the decidedly non-fancy-sounding food, but we can dig it. (Why not have a gimlet with your burger?) Of course, standards like margaritas are available too. It wouldn't be a pier without margaritas. The burgers ’n’ fries menu also has a few unusual takes on the classics, such as the Caesar salad "fondue," which should be a delight for lovers of dressing.
La Grande Orange
260 S. Raymond Ave. , Pasadena626-356-4444
California-style fine dining and wines are offered at this Pasadena outpost of a Phoenix-based mini-chain. The concept is similar to a Cheesecake Factory: big portions of crowd-pleasers such as prime rib, chopped salad and chicken nachos. If the food isn't your thing, the decor might be. The restaurant is located in a meticulously refurbished old train depot.
Beso
6350 Hollywood Blvd., Los Angeles323-467-7991
Celebrity chef Todd English and celebrity-celebrity Eva Longoria have teamed up to create a high-end, fusion-y, Mexican-esque destination in the heart of Hollywood. English’s many restaurants across the U.S. are well-respected, and this is his first foray into Los Angeles and Mexican food. Longoria’s two contributions to the menu are guacamole, which people seem to like, and tortilla soup, which people seem to really, really hate. But, Beso is really a place to kiss the bartender—the dazzling juice-based cocktails are always spot on.
Village Pantry
1035 Swarthmore Ave. , Pacific Palisades310-454-3337
Former mayor-cum-enterprising restaurateur Richard Riordan is a bit of a tricky Dick, it seems. Another notch in his expanding resto-empire, the final incarnation of the Village Pantry caused a bit of ruckus among Palisaders, who not only mourned the loss of their beloved Mort’s Deli but were anticipating a similar homage to cured meats and casual dining in its stead. The B-L-D menu of $10 omelettes and duck cassoulet, along with an executive chef who’s worked stints at Michael’s and Water Grill, are decidedly upscale, despite an offering of matzo ball soup here and a pastrami sandwich there. Perhaps the Oak Room, the adjoining bar, would be the best place for peace talks.
Tomato Pie
2457 Hyperion Ave., Los Angeles323-661-6474
This offshoot of the Melrose pizza joint is actually pretty hard to find. It's in the back of a small, non-descript building on a quiet street in Franklin Hills. But people have been finding it and keeping it busy; many locals are interested in seeing how it compares to the long-running favorite Hard Times down the street. The specialty pizzas are popular here, especially the (drum roll) tomato pie, which is a rectangular creation with just a dusting of hard cheese.
Andiamo
2815 Sunset Blvd. , Los Angeles213-483-7070
The verdict’s still out on whether this is the best pizza in Silverlake. It garners the full spectrum of responses from “awesome” to “sucks.” At least its eco-conscience is indisputable. All the disposable ware (plates, cups, utensils) is biodegradable; coffee, tea, and as many of the ingredients as possible are organic and locally-sourced; and the restaurant does its own composting. Added bonus: Delivery service brings a cute boy on a fuel-efficient scooter to your door.
BLT Steak
8720 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood310-360-1950
BLT stands not for the delicious sandwich, but for Bistro Laurent Tourondel—a growing network of protein-obsessed brasseries from New York-based celebrity chef Tourondel. As the rest of the name suggests, it’s a steakhouse done with French elaborations. There’s a raw bar, full charcuterie and cheese offerings, and a signature cut of sirloin for a whopping $82. But for all the high-falutin’, high-rolling fare, standouts are the ginormous popovers and chicken liver pate, which come free as your bread service.
Second Story
3501 Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach310-750-0300
This hotel restaurant offers a pretty basic comfort food menu with a few inventive touches here and there. The Cobb salad is made with salmon, not the standard chicken, and the Caesar salad comes on a bed of orzo. Otherwise, it's a crash course in what's trendy at L.A. restaurants right now: spring rolls, fried calamari, sliders, an expensive burger, mac and cheese, organic chicken and bread pudding.
Siena
43 E. Union St. , Pasadena626-854-6050
The name says Siena, but the menu says California. Currently open only for lunch, the focus is on the fusion-y pizzas Angelenos love and East Coasters pretend to disdain. It's owned by the team behind Mojitos, so expect large portions of, at the very least, decent food.
Marty D's
230 S. Beverly Dr., Beverly Hills310-273-7779
We’ll take Marty’s word for it that this homey little space recreates a ’50s soda fountain by way of Coney Island, since we don’t have firsthand knowledge of either. The menu of hot dogs, baked beans, corn on the-cob and egg creams feels like the Fourth of July all year long—which is exactly the point. The husband-and-wife team were inspired by their own holiday barbecues. But for all the nostalgic quaintness, the all-beef Marty’s Deluxe costs $8—those are Beverly Hills prices, dog!
BonChon
3407 W. 6th St., Los Angeles213-487-7878
Colonel Sanders may be shaking in his boots. BonChon’s entry into Los Angeles (unconventionally by way of New York) was met with much excitement by enthusiasts of KFC—that’s Korean-style fried chicken, which is crispier, stickier, and spicier than the Colonel’s original recipe. But fast food this ain’t: It can take 30 minutes to make the chicken.
Shojin
333 S. Alameda St., Los Angeles213-617-0305
Those searching for healthy vegetarian food now have a great option in Little Tokyo. This restaurant serves a Japanese interpretation of Buddhist vegetarian (shojin) cuisine. The food is prepared without meat, fish, eggs or dairy; dishes are usually made with vegetables rather than a meat alternative (such as seitan). Desserts are soy-based, of course, and the parfait is particularly popular.
Creperie by Jack n' Jill's
8738 W. 3rd St. , Los Angeles310-858-4900
Chef/owner Robert Benson of Jack n’ Jill’s, the popular Beverly Hills breakfast spot, is coaxing more carbs into the Robertson Boulevard diet. While these Franco-flapjacks are skinny and served in an elegant dining room, the portions are gigantic (Benson used to work at Claim Jumper) and drowning in a Jersey cow’s worth of cream. If you’re not in the mood for crepes, the commodious menu also offers sandwiches, salads and assorted entrees.
The Stand - Westwood
1116 Westwood Blvd., Westwood310-785-0400
It looks like the Valley’s long-standing dog-and-burger outlet is angling to take over West L.A. After inculcating the fortress of CAA’s new Century City campus, the Stand has added another location, this one in Westwood Village—proving that Hollywood agents and UCLA freshmen share a propensity for wieners. The newest location is also open latest (until 11 p.m. on weekends), and while menu prices remain inexpensively the same, nothing beats the $1 Dog Night on Mondays.
Brats Brothers Gourmet
13456 Ventura Blvd., Los Angeles818-986-4020
This is a hole in the wall with gourmet aspirations. Well, kind of—after all, it is just sausages and hot dogs. But the handmade options of veal, venison, ostrich or buffalo, to name a few, are definitely awe-inspiring. Competently executed side dishes such as German potato salad and sauerkraut (any of which could go terribly wrong) give the place some foodie cred. There are in fact two brothers, Peter and Roland, either of whom man the counter on any given day, so be sure to say hello.
The Oak Room
1035 Swarthmore Ave., Los Angeles310-454-3337
Former mayor Richard Riordan has been expanding his restaurant empire for some time, and now he's expanding alcohol consumption in L.A. as well: With The Oak Room, he has acquired the second liquor license in Pacific Palisades. To go along with all the sweet sweet booze, the menu is full of items like Niman Ranch meat and seasonal vegetables from farmers markets, which we suppose makes it slightly healthier than Riordan's other temples of gluttony.
Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.
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