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Summer crop of '08

A meaty batch of new restaurants

By Katherine Spiers

Special to Metromix
August 28, 2008

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Fork pork @ Animal (Credit: LA Times/Ringo H.W. Chiu)

Seasonality, locavorism, farm-to-table: These principles have become obligatory for any new L.A. restaurant worth its chops. But take heed, vigilant veggie-heads. The season’s great green produce comes bountifully garnished with none other than the other white meat. New menus across the city read like odes to the precious pig from Gordon Ramsay’s literal head-to-tail maneuvers to Animal’s assertion that pork works as appetizer, entree, and dessert. We’re also glad to see that last season’s fling with wieners and burgers—actually, anything that works between two buns—continues. How appropriate: These are the dog days after all.

Nickel Diner

524 S. Main St. - Los Angeles

Nickel presents a kitschy, loving take on old-school lunch counters that's a nice neighborhood addition for Downtowners. Breakfasts are traditional steak'n'eggs and pancakes, mixed with modern ideas like tofu scrambles and breakfasta pasta. The lunch menu is simple: soups, salads, burgers and sandwiches. And in an exciting twist, the pastry chef works in-house and keeps sweet tooths satiated all day; show up early and get your hands on a freshly-made doughnut.

Ivan Kane's Cafe Was

1521 N. Vine St. - Los Angeles

323-466-5400

With a self-proclaimed emphasis on the bohemian and opulent, it's no surprise that this new restaurant-bar-lounge behemoth is quite French-influenced, in design and, especially, menu. Cheesy onion soup, caviar, steaks, mussels, and a lot of frites are highlights, as well as tarts and souffles for dessert. The bar is full of classic spirits and expensive wines, and a piano and a "stairway to nowhere" take center stage in this complex of indulgence. Artsy!

Apple Restaurant

665 N. Robertson Blvd. - West Hollywood

310-358-9191

Though the adjacent Apple Lounge will always get more press, make no mistake: the restaurant is fully operational. It's even open more days of the week than the bar. The food is of the trendy, small plates variety, concocted by the son of a celebrity chef (that's probably good enough, right?). We are impressed by the imagination and daring presented on the menu: How many club kids will be ordering the frogs' legs? Hard to say, but we're glad the kitchen is trying.

Millions of Milkshakes

8910 Santa Monica Blvd. - West Hollywood

213-387-4253

If the over-the-top website doesn't give it away, this sugared-up little store is like Pinkberry on many, many drugs. It was created by someone who, if their other projects are any indication, wants desperately to be part of Hollywood's inside scene. This will have to do. The product here isn't quite a milkshake in the common sense, but with its mixture of soft serve and mix-ins, more like a Dairy Queen Blizzard. Can be tasty, but the price point is rather higher than at DQ.

Kiss My Bundt

8104 W. 3rd St. - Los Angeles

323-655-0559

Despite the rather silly name, the pastry chefs here are downright serious about bundt cakes. The hole-y baked treats are available in three sizes, which come down to cake-sized, shareable for two, and cupcake-sized. Speaking of which, think bundts will overtake cupcakes as the dessert du jour? Other baked goods and candies can be purchased here, but it's all about the bundt, really. And that red velvet is looking mighty tempting.

Marche

13355 Ventura Blvd. - Sherman Oaks

818-784-2915

Max has been a Valley staple for a few years now, offering fusion-y Asian food in a neighborhood joint. In summer 2008 the concept was revamped, the space redecorated, and menu changed to reflect a more casual vibe and even more Asian-influenced menu. It's a bit less expensive than it once was, too. Check out curries, seafood, and semi-luxe items like pork belly confit; and for a summer dessert sensation, don't miss the halo halo.

The Counter

4786 Admiralty Way - Marina del Rey

310-827-8600

If Heaven were a burger place, it would definitely be like The Counter. This eatery will put almost anything anyone could ever want on a beef, turkey, chicken or vegetarian burger. Top it off with a heaping basket of sweet potato fries and a shake if you have an insatiable appetite or feel like testing your stomach capacity. Be ready to wait in line, as this is anything but a best-kept secret - after all, this location is the second on the Westside alone.

Andrew's Cheese Shop

728 Montana Ave. - Santa Monica

310-393-3308

A cheese shop Montana Avenue can call it's very own. This shop carries a multitude of tasty cheeses, plus all the trimmings: beer and wine, crackers and bread, and jams and jellies, among other items. Perfect for a little picnic on the beach.

Sashi Sushi + Sake Lounge

451 Manhattan Beach Blvd. - Manhattan Beach

310-545-0400

Right on Manhattan Beach's main drag, this Japanese eatery/drinkery kicks back with a menu of sushi and robata (for your flame-grilled pleasure), as well as a pretty comprehensive sake menu. It's helmed by an Iron Chef contestant, so it would be fair to assume that there's more flash than substance here. Course, we've been wrong before.

Joss Cuisine

9919 Santa Monica Blvd. - Beverly Hills

310-277-3888

We suppose the Beverly Hills location gives it away, but this Chinese restaurant focuses on the upscale. Though many Chinese restaurants on the West Coast position themselves as cheaper-ish options, Joss is definitely not - though it's certainly not the most expensive choice in the 'hood, either. Try the chicken and fig soup (sounds weird, but was famous at the restaurant's earlier incarnation in WeHo) or the Peking duck, a signature item here.

Origami Bistro & Bar

257 S. Spring St. - Los Angeles

213-687-8606

Valencia's favorite Korean-Japanese restaurant and lounge has made its way to the far chicer Downtown L.A. There are cooked items such as tempura and teriyaki, as well as sashimi and sushi that sometimes comes with names like Albacore Marilyn Monroll and—seriously—Blazing Tropical Rainbow Roll. The lounge is open till last call, so the bar at least should become a valued part of the Downtown scene.

Gjelina

1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd. - Venice

310-450-1429

Without even a website to its name, or any apparent marketing or advertising, Gjelina has quickly, quietly, become a foodie favorite. We even know of a few semi-celeb chefs who are already listing it among their favorites. The food is a Euro-influenced yet all-American mix of large and small plates, plus a big wine selection. And it's all about eating locally and seasonally so the menu changes regularly, but most everything seems to be quite good, any time of year.

R+D Kitchen

1323 Montana Ave. - Santa Monica

310-395-3314

Though it's owned by a large restaurant group, Santa Monica locals are excited to have something new on Montana Avenue, which has been previously lacking in sit-down, full-service restaurants. The food is decent quality, and includes items like burgers and sandwiches, salads, and entrees such as pasta and meatloaf. There's also a full bar, which is excellent news for happy hour aficionados.

SugaCane Lounge

1053 S. Hill St. - Los Angeles

877-828-0419

Jamaican food is relatively rare in L.A., and this place is hoping to fill the void. According to them, the ingredients necessary for good Jamaican food are "love and a Jamaican chef," and they've got both. The menu is fairly small but full of classics like jerk chicken and goat curry. At first glance it isn't very vegetarian-friendly, but just ask and they'll list the off-menu items for you. Check out the sodas from Jamaica, like pineapple and ginger beer (very different than ginger ale), and the juices like sorel and soursop.

Home Restaurant - Silverlake

2500 Riverside Dr. - Los Angeles

323-665-0211

Home Restaurant has opened its second location in Silverlake. LIke the original Hillhurst location, lots of attention have been paid to the inviting patio which is furnished with a multicolored wood fence, gurgling fountains and a central tree that shelters perky booths covered in robin’s-egg blue and cabbage-green striped fabric. Inside, the casual dining area is cheery with butter-yellow walls, a low-slung wood-beamed ceiling and a sort of puzzle theme. Tabletops are imprinted with a puzzle-piece pattern, and completed puzzles of nature scenes adorn the walls. The broad comfort-food menu is identical to the original Home.

Gyenari Korean BBQ & Lounge

9540 Washington Blvd. - Culver City

310-838-3131

Another jazzed-up Korean restaurant has found its way westward, this time along Culver City’s coveted downtown drag. The splashy, nightlife-driven vibe makes no bones about the cross-cultural interests. It’s Korean ’cue styled with California-inspired cuisine. So a rice flour pancake will come stuffed with applewood bacon and smoked gouda, and an order of scallops in Cajun butter can accompany a round of bulgogi. For the very American sweet tooth, there are doughnuts with raspberry sauce.

Rockenwagner

311 Arizona Ave. - Santa Monica

310-394-4267

Rockenwagner expands its Westside mini-empire with this Santa Monica addition. Everything's pre-made so it's more of a grab-and-go stop than a sit-down restaurant. Still, the desserts and other baked goods are reliably delicious. And you haven't really "done" Rockenwagner until you've tried something with "pretzel" in the name.

Fab Hot Dogs

6747 Tampa Ave. - Reseda

818-344-4336

The nondescript storefront doesn’t look like much. This is quintessential Reseda, after all. (Anyone see Boogie Nights? The Karate Kid?) But the menu’s unwavering commitment to the dog lives up to its “fab” billing. Selections include the Carolina Slaw; the Kansas City (topped with BBQ sauce); a bacon-wrapped representative for L.A.; and the Manhattan, with sauerkraut, N.Y. red onion sauce and an extra dollop of ’tude, we’re sure. Indeed, the hot dog is American through and through. The house specialty is the Ripper, a sausage intended to crackle open in a hot-oil bath. A deep-fried hot dog? God bless America.

8 oz. Burger Bar

7661 Melrose Ave. - Los Angeles

323-852-0008

Despite anxious rumor-mongering, local chef-hottie Govind Armstrong has not decamped to South Beach or Manhattan—not completely, at least. His first-ever venture as chef/owner, Table 8, is moving just west along Melrose to more spacious digs, leaving behind this revamped half-pounder of a burger bar in its original space. All sorts of patties are to be had—turkey, fish, even grass-fed happy beef—with an additional roster of fancy extras for your customizing pleasure. Lucky for us, Table 8’s celebrated short rib grilled cheese has decided to stick around for this sequel.

The Beachcomber at Malibu Pier

23000 Pacific Coast Hwy. - Malibu

310-356-9800

After 13 years and a $10 million renovation, finally, a place to eat atop the waves of Malibu. Not that the food will be a transformative experience, but there's nothing like a cheeseburger and the ocean air. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner and serves the expected fare: omelettes, sandwiches, chicken and steak. Seafood is ably represented, of course, especially in fun little appetizers—the better to partake in the impressive cocktail menu. Pace yourself: Getting sick into the ocean is a major party foul.

RockSugar Pan Asian Kitchen

10250 Santa Monica Blvd. - Los Angeles

310-552-9988

The creators of The Cheesecake Factory have introduced a new concept in L.A.: the pan-Asian, stuff-your-face emporium of culinary wonder. This will be the flagship of a new chain, and as such, don't expect the unexpected (unless pad Thai is a totally foreign concept to you). On the other hand, a certain level of quality can be expected, as chains go, since this is the slightly more fancy sibling to the ol' C.F. If you aren't into the food, the decor will surely provide a distraction.

Crudo Bar & Ristorante - CLOSED

8570 Sunset Blvd. - West Hollywood

310-289-1131

Though there is a wide spectrum of Italian dishes available, the focus is on seafood, raw and cooked (crudo means raw in Italian). The kitchen is still very much working out the kinks, but the addition of a dedicated crudo bar should liven up the offerings: think tuna and salmon carpaccios, beef tartare, and seafood soup and risotto.

SugarFish

4722 Admiralty Way - Marina del Rey

310-306-6300

Nozawa-san, of the infamous and eponymous sushi touchstone in Studio City, has spun off a brand-spankin’-new concept in Sugarfish. The bright, sterile decor has a mass-production appeal (yes, yes, in the way of Pinkberry), as does the streamlined menu, but the freshness of the fish is still fundamental. Each guest is accountable for ordering at least one of three tiered meals. Selections are fixed, and so is the pricing, which includes tax and tip. A few a la carte items, including vegetarian and cooked options, can be added to round out the meal. Be sure to ask if there’s a “Surprise Me” special that day.

Loteria Grill

6627 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-465-2500

One of the most popular stands at the Farmers Market now has a restaurant offshoot of its own. Carnitas, taquitos, platanos fritos, mole: All have drawn raves at 3rd and Fairfax, and they’re sure to do the same at the new location. Even more so now that the brick-and-mortar establishment has a liquor license and plans to stay open till 3 a.m. Can’t imagine an excellent taco that’s not from a truck? We hear you, especially at these prices. But as stationary places go, this is pretty good—darn good when you consider the Hollywood address.

uWink

6801 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-466-1800

Sure, there’s food here, but the burgers, salads and pastas aren’t really the draw. The restaurant is a sort of modern, grown-up arcade that uses technology at every turn. Orders are placed via touch-screen on the table, so there are no servers per se, just "runners." The same screen has games on it, and it’s linked to other tables if you want to get nerdy-flirty. There’s a full bar as well, but martinis probably won’t help anyone understand the technology.

Animal

435 N. Fairfax Ave. - Los Angeles

323-782-9225

The two main forces—chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo—driving Animal are known collectively as the Food Dudes, so you can imagine the vibe: stripped-down interior, relaxed clientele, playful (but secretly purposeful) food, and lots of wine. Animal loves, loves, loves pork; it even shows up on the dessert menu in the chocolate crunch bacon bar. Ribs are balsamic-glazed and offered as an appetizer—you know, to whet the appetite. Of course, the kitchen offers pork-less items, but then you’d be missing the whole point.

Jian BBQ

8256 Beverly Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-655-6556

Most of the pre-opening interest in this Korean restaurant centered on the way-west-of-Western Avenue address—oh yes, and the giant robot that was noticeably hanging out just inside the door. For the time being it looks as though he's just decorative, but who knows, maybe he'll be serving the bulgogi someday. There's also a fair amount of neon and flash: The pachinko machines behind the swanky bar are indication that this isn’t your average hole-in-the-wall Korean barbecue joint. The usual DIY grilling classics are here with a fancy option or two (e.g., Wagyu beef from Kobe prefecture) as well as a progressive touch to entree items.

Anisette Brasserie

225 Santa Monica Blvd. - Santa Monica

310-395-3200

In France, a brasserie is a neighborhood restaurant, open all day, serving classics like breakfasty egg dishes, onion soup, roast chicken and tons of frites. That's the idea at Anisette, helmed by L.A.-renowned, Paris-born chef Alain Giraud. From offerings of oysters and absinthe-based cocktails to the dazzling belle epoque decor (even the zinc bar was poured in France), a leisurely day at Anisette is a transformative, oh-so-urbane experience. You’d never know that the hustle-and-bustle of 3rd Street Promenade is only a couple hundred yards away.

Isla Cantina

8788 W. Sunset Blvd. - West Hollywood

310-657-8100

Nothing beats a cold cocktail on a hot day, especially when you’ve got a view of the pretty peeps cruisin’ Sunset Blvd. This island oasis has it covered: a retractable roof, large windows, specialty drinks and a menu that ranges from pub grub to filet mignon to ceviche. But really, come for the fruity cocktails, stay for the fruity cocktails.

Kitchen 24

1608 N. Cahuenga Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-465-2424

Yet another L.A. restaurant attempts the 24/7 business model. The good news here is that the prices aren't totally outrageous, which should draw the late-night, post-clubbing riffraff. Breakfast, lunch and dessert items are available all day (dinner and cocktails only at certain hours), so expect a lot of bacon, eggs and pancakes with cutesy names like Wakey Wakey Eggs and Bakey and the ecumenical Challah-lujah French Toast. There's a DJ at night too, in case you're not ready to stop the party.

Gordon Ramsay at The London West Hollywood

1020 N. San Vicente Blvd. - West Hollywood

310-358-7788

Gordon Ramsay is one of the world's most Michelin-starred chefs, but Angelenos probably know him as that screamy guy on TV. That should change with the opening of his first L.A. restaurant, named after the culinary highness himself and located in the beatifically remodeled London West Hollywood hotel. Ramsay’s craft generally involves inventive twists on Continental cuisine, but here he presumptively conforms to West Coast tastes. The menu reflects Pacific seafood and Japanese-inspired ingredients—he’s even hired a sushi chef. The Season 4 winner of Hell’s Kitchen has a gig in the kitchen too.

Ortega 120

1814 S. Pacific Coast Hwy. - Redondo Beach

310-792-4120

The upscale Nuevo Latino trend continues! Ortega 120 gets pretty high marks for the food (which actually differentiates it from many of its culinary brethren). Enchiladas are especially popular, whether ordered verde or with mole. Beans, rice and tortillas are served family-style, the better to share your carby indulgences, and the drinks are inventive: there's a horchata martini on the menu. The decor is another high point, with Dia de los Muertos pieces throughout.

Rush Street

9546 Washington Blvd. - Culver City

310-837-9546

Modeled after the brick-walled nighttime joints of Chicago, this restaurant comes equipped with a full bar and a patio. The food is based on upscale renditions of bar food, including various sliders, Buffalo chicken dumplings, and brick-oven pizza and flatbreads. There is a stripper pole upstairs, which doesn't bode well for a respectable clientele, but perhaps the Culver City location will keep out the frattier riffraff.

Kokomo Cafe

7385 Beverly Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-933-0773

After 20 years at the Original Farmers Market, Kokomo has moved shop just down the way to the former Eat Well space. Quickly thereafter, the fab new digs were staged as the new Peach Pit in the "90210" reboot. Devoted customers will be glad to know that despite the new Hollywood identity, the comfort-driven menu remains the same. So whether it’s a short stack of the beloved pumpkin pancakes for breakfast or the Cajun-inspired blackened catfish for lunch, you’ll still get your weekly dose of Americana—just minus those pesky ol’ pigeons.

Fresh Brothers

2008 N. Sepulveda Blvd. - Manhattan Beach

310-546-4444

A pizza-loving clan from Chicago brought their recipes to California to spread the gospel of deep dish. Well, and thin crust too. All pizzas can be ordered either way. Specialties include the Momma's Favorite, with spinach, garlic, mushrooms and pesto, the Miller, with sausage, pepperoni, ground beef and ham, and in the other direction, a kid's special that purees vegetables into the pizza sauce. There's also a wide variety of salad options and baked Buffalo wings.

Katsu Sushi

260 N. Beverly Dr. - Beverly Hills

310-858-0535

This small, spare restaurant and sushi bar run is by Katsu Michite, one of the quieter sushi legends in L.A. (and also the owner of Tama Sushi). The menu is simple and pared-downyou'll even have to ask for soy sauce, it's not a givenand changes daily, as Michite-san has a knack for picking only the freshest offerings.

Tofu Villa

2130 Sawtelle Blvd. - Los Angeles

310-477-8987

Don't be fooled by the name: there isn't a whole lot of tofu going on here. There's some, but the main reason to come here is vegetables, meat and rice (aka bibimbob). Prices are pretty reasonable, as they include a whole range of side dishes (panchan), from potato salad to seaweed to pickled items—even a soup sometimes. And you can finish your meal with some in-house frozen yogurt.

Five Guys Burgers and Fries

20700 Avalon Blvd. - Carson

310-515-7700

The East Coast answer to In-N-Out has arrived to challenge the West Coast champion head-on. It’s easy to see the comparison: Both feature limited menus of burgers, fries and shakes; both are decorated with red and white tiles; and both inspire a cult-like following. Five Guys does offer all sorts of extra ingredients (mushrooms, jalapeños, A-1 sauce) free of charge. (Note: Going “all the way” means getting only half the stuff. Go figure.) But does that beat a super not-so-secret menu? We think not.

Katherine Spiers is a contributing editor for Metromix Los Angeles.