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The New Mexico

Exploring L.A.'s south-of-the-border-style eateries

By Marissa Tinloy

Special to Metromix
January 19, 2009

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With a wave of creative new Mexican eateries entering the city and a whole slew of longtime favorites, it's no surprise that Los Angeles has been dubbed the new Mexico of the culinary world. Whatever “new” may signify—a new venue, a new flavor, a new way of working with old ingredients, a new awareness of health and eating options—you can bet L.A. is on it.

Border Grill

1445 4th St. - Santa Monica

310-451-1655

This fun and flavorful urban cantina shows that Mexican food can be light, healthy and vegan/vegetarian-friendly. No lard here—just a trendy, colorful environment and gourmet twists on already zesty south-of-the-border tastes. Inventive favorites of the venue’s owners (Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger, aka the Two Hot Tamales) include grilled fish tacos with cucumber-citrus slaw, a wild-mushroom quesadilla with manchego and cotija cheeses, and plantain empanadas packed with black beans and poblano peppers.

CASA

350 S. Grand Ave. - Los Angeles

213-621-2249

Casa, Downtown's new cocina and cantina, effortlessly embraces both the colorful spirit of Mexican cuisine and L.A.'s au courant trendiness. With an informal lunchtime taqueria menu, a chic luxury dinner menu and cocktail lounge with strong Mexican-flavored concoctions, chef Kris Morningstar's Casa makes guests feel right at home—with albondigas (pork and beef meatballs), conejo (braised rabbit with chestnuts) or cochinita pibil (black-bean puree, citrus-marinated onions and cilantro). Fiesta seekers can top off the evening with a nifty twist on the original Mexican beer cocktail: una cerveza sangrita (house-made sangrita, Corona, Herradura silver tequila and a salted rim). Salud!

CJ's Cafe

5501 W. Pico Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-936-3216

CJ’s serves Mexican and soul food—the two ultimate comfort cuisines combined in one ultra-cozy, adorable and impossible-to-stereotype Mid-City cafe. Try the classics from both cultural spectrums: heavy-set huevos rancheros or spicy pollo a la plancha, plus fried catfish, black-eyed peas or collard greens served with grits. Only in L.A.!

Coyote Cantina

531 N. Pacific Coast Hwy. - Redondo Beach

310-376-1066

This cantina brings together the best of two Mexican traditions: good food and good drinks. Choose from an extensive menu offering inventive dishes such as chicken-pineapple quesadillas, ahi salad with habanero-citrus dressing and turkey jalapeño enchiladas. Have a round (or rounds) of one of Coyote’s 60-plus fine tequila labels and pretend you’re in Cabo.

Fresh Corn Grill

1510 Westwood Blvd. - Westwood

310-470-0414

In honor of its namesake, this sunny, healthy Westwood spot tops nearly every dish with fresh produce. Grilled corn (a staple down south—think corn tortillas, corn-husked tamales, sweet corn soup) appears atop bean-laden tostada salads and grilled salmon specialty plates. It's informal, delicious and an inventive way of going south on L.A.'s Westside.

Frida Taqueria

225 26th St. Ste. 14 - Santa Monica

310-395-9666

Nestled in the cutesy Brentwood Country Mart, Frida Taqueria presents new-world Mexican (fresh produce, lighter ingredients) in a very old-fashioned environment (the Mart’s classic red barn, which dates back to 1948). Combining the stand’s sassy Mexican tastes and the throwback atmosphere, Frida’s is thriving—and it’s no surprise given the tasty rib-eye tacos and Resplandor de Mango salad.

Kogi

roving - Los Angeles

The Kogi truck is on the move, spreading Korean-taco love throughout the oh-so-lucky Los Angeles area. Find the friendly food-prepping gang's current location on Twitter, drive there immediately and proceed to gorge on awe-inspiring-ly affordable Korean short rib tacos, a spicy pork burrito or fiesta-flavored tofu. Now that's Mexican-fusion!

Loteria Grill

6627 Hollywood Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-465-2500

A longtime Original Farmers Market favorite, Loteria has found itself a second, thriving location and a hefty responsibility—bringing nuevo Mexican grub to the heart of Hollywood. Lucky for all, the new space is airy and bright, and the tasty, unpretentious fare stays true to the original outpost.

Mucho Ultima Mexicana

903 Manhattan Ave. - Manhattan Beach

310-374-4422

This trendy yet friendly Manhattan Beach abode sets the Westside’s standards for creative, contemporary south-of-the-border cuisine. Mucho’s modern-Mex menu beckons with daring, delicious and unexpected combinations (lamb shank mole, Ahi tuna-Dungeness crab ceviche, tamarind guava-glazed Scottish salmon) and old-world favorites (hand-hacked two-avocado guacamole, fire-roasted corn with cotija cheese). And, of course, save the best for last—don’t miss the kitchen’s handmade churros with chocolate and caramel dipping sauces—plus, Mucho, Mucho more.

Pink Taco

10250 Santa Monica Blvd. - Los Angeles

310-789-1000

Pink Taco merges Mexican food with punky, trendy rock ’n’ roll. The atmosphere is loud and vibrant, the food is California-ized, and the crowd is completely Angeleno. Try the panuchos (the eponymous pink tacos), authentically imported from the Yucatan region and complete with pickled pink onions and avocado.

Primera Taza

1852 E. 1st St. - Los Angeles

One taza (cup) at a time, Primera Taza Coffeehouse is bringing internationally renowned—and delicious—hot beverages to Boyle Heights. Opened by a native of the neighborhood, the hip spot for a cup of morning Joe offers not-so-average-Joe bean and tea varieties from Mexico, plus other worldly destinations, inluding One cup at a time, Primera Taza is bringing internationally renowned (and delicious) hot beverages to Boyle Heights. Opened by a neighborhood native, the hip spot for a cup of Joe offers not-so-average bean and tea varieties from Mexico, plus other worldly destinations, including Guatemala, Ethiopia and Brazil. The spot's succulent pan dulce (sweet bread) is baked fresh daily at the nearby La Favorita. (No surprise—it’s also a neighborhood favorite.)

Rivera Restaurant

1050 S. Flower St., #102 - Los Angeles

213-749-1460

Rivera is modern Mexican from head to toe. The ambiance exudes L.A.-sleek, and the menu beckons with John Sedlar’s contemporary Latin food and tequila-on-tap—does life get any better? New to the Downtown scene, Rivera feels right at home.

Sky's Gourmet Tacos

5408 W. Pico Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-932-6253

Mexican soul food is on the rise. Another place of Southern flavor fusion—think Mexico meets South Carolina—Sky's makes tacos that are strangely reminiscent of sloppy Joes and lobster combos complete with a sweet-hot, down-home "sassy sauce." The Sky's the culinary limit!

Taco Llama

7344 Van Nuys Blvd. - Van Nuys

818-901-1898

It might not be new, but Taco Llama is certainly central to the thriving taco-burrito-torta contingent. As the real deal in a competitive market, this stand stands out handmade tortillas, lusciously tender meat (try the lamb and carnitas), and salsa worth a stop.

Hugo's Tacos

3300 Glendale Blvd. - Los Angeles

323-664-9400

Hugo's puts a twist on notions of the traditional hole-in-the-wall taqueria with a taste-provoking menu that includes not-so-common condiments, such as salsa cruda and honey chipotle. The “salsa burger,” typically made with all-natural Angus beef, can be made double, veggie or double-veggie—not something you see every day in the world of Mexican food. Stuff those sandwiches fat with zucchini, corn, string beans, potato or soy chorizo. Ay, papi!